Hong Kong is always vibrant and bustling, but where are its latest hotspots? Business Traveller Asia-Pacific checks out two fast-changing districts to visit on your next trip
QUEEN’S ROAD EAST, WAN CHAI
Nestled between Admiralty, Causeway Bay and Happy Valley, Wan Chai district has for decades been a centre of entertainment, where workers from the surrounding CBDs come to unwind. It has an informal atmosphere, with bustling street markets and rustic historical relics sitting next to 24-hour bars flanked by ladies of the night.
Recently, a series of upmarket developments, particularly along Queen’s Road East, have breathed fresh life into the area, though it has still managed to maintain its down-to-earth, gritty appeal.
The messy markets and local food haunts remain amidst modern additions such as the Hong Kong Convention Centre, Pacific Place Three and Hotel Indigo. The late-night venues along Lockhart Road are as popular as they were during the days of sailors and Suzy Wong, while old temples are as frequented as they have been for centuries.
Wan Chai is at the centre of Hong Kong’s comprehensive transport network. It is on the blue Island line of the MTR, only two stops from Central. From Admiralty, the stop inbetween, you can connect with the Tsuen Wan line that takes you across the harbour to Tsim Sha Tsui and Kowloon.
Many bus stops line the streets, taxis are everywhere, and the central tram line – a quaint way to get from one side of the island to the other – runs through this part of town along Johnston Road.
THE NEW...
Located on the street that used to be the heart of Hong Kong’s licensed brothel operation before public health legislation changed in 1930, 22 Ships is now one of the city’s coolest tapas bars. No reservations are taken, so get there early. Founding chef Jason Atherton, behind Pollen restaurant in London and Esquina in Singapore, has also previously worked for Spain’s super-exclusive El Bulli restaurant, and he’s not afraid of experimenting with local ingredients (durian is the only one he says he “hasn’t got his head around” – so far). He is also planning a “secret cocktail bar” nearby. Tapas dishes cost about HK$100-HK$200 each (£8-£18). 22 Ship Street; 22ships.hk
Open in the evenings, Stone Nullah Tavern has a great atmosphere and equally good service. Chef Vinnie Lauria is said to make the best chicken wings in Hong Kong (HK$100/£8), and the beer and wine selection is extensive. 69 Stone Nullah Lane; stonenullahtavern.com
Newly opened Barcelona-style restaurant Catalunya has enjoyed a long waiting list since launching in March. It is extremely popular, and the bar buzzes nightly. Other than the tapas, two of the bestsellers are the Mediterranean red prawns and lobster rice. The cocktails (HK$100-HK$200/£8-£16) are also good. 32 Oi Kwan Road; catalunya.hk
THE OLD...
A number of street markets branch off Queen’s Road East, selling everything from flowers and trinkets to fruit and veg. Tai Yuen (Toy) Street is popular among the young at heart, while cheap clothing can be bought on Spring Garden Lane.
Queen’s Road East is home to two popular institutions that have been in operation for 40 years – the Happy Cake shop (106) and Northern Dumplings (259), a diminutive hole in the wall that serves up steaming pork dumplings in hot and sour soup, open for lunch and dinner.
On Stone Nullah Lane, the distinctive façade of the Blue House cluster can be spotted from Queen’s Road East. This group of tenement blocks has remained the same since the 1920s, and makes for a striking contrast to the increasingly sleek surrounding buildings.
Hung Shing Temple was built on Queen’s Road East in 1847. It is interesting to visit, but is first and foremost used to worship Hung Shing (God of the Sea) on the first and 15th day of every lunar month, as well as the birthday of Kwun Yum, Goddess of Mercy.
BARS TO TRY
Just left of the Blue House is a lane with a well-kept secret that serves as a refreshing alternative to the debauchery of the watering holes on Lockhart Road.
Tai Lung Fung is a small bar kitted out in authentic 60s paraphernalia. The pink neon sign on the outside is the first thing that identifies it, while inside, the décor creates a nostalgic vibe. Drinks are reasonably priced. 5 Hing Wan Street; tel +852 2572 0055.
Another popular venue for a sophisticated tipple is the Pawn – so called because it’s housed in an old tenement building that used to include a pawnshop. It’s now a gastro pub serving delicious cocktails, and British food (mains are about HK$200/£16). Sit on the balcony overlooking the tramline, an ideal spot for a drink. 62 Johnston Road; tel +852 2866 3444; thepawn.com.hk
Many rooftop venues make use of Hong Kong’s iconic skyline, but none quite like Australian steakhouse chain Wooloomooloo. Its bar on the rooftop of the Hennessy building boasts unbelievable views of Victoria Harbour, Happy Valley and Central (see our front cover). It gets very busy, so arrive early. Cocktails are HK$100-HK$150 (£8-£12). 31/F and Rooftop the Hennessy, 256 Hennessy Road; tel +852 2893 6960; wooloo-mooloo.com
HOTEL OPENINGS
Hotel Indigo Hong Kong Island opened in April, a 138-room boutique property. The exterior features a golden dragon motif that is illuminated at night. 246 Queen’s Road East; ihg.com
Also launched in April, the 79-room V Wanchai2 is a boutique property featuring chic design and free wifi. 139 Thomson Road; thev.hk
Thailand-based Onyx group has taken over the two-decade-old Wesley and reopened it as Ozo Wesley in July. The 251-room property will seek to be a more affordable alternative to the nearby Shangri-La, JW Marriott and Conrad hotels. 22 Hennessy Road; onyx-hospitality.com
Mira Moon Wanchai was set to open its doors this month. The 91-room hotel is a sister property to the Mira Hong Kong in Tsim Sha Tsui, and will be similarly trendy. 388 Jaffe Road; miramoonhotel.com
SHEUNG WAN
This area to the west of Central used to be known as a “very local” neighbourhood, with clusters of shops selling pungent dried seafood (primarily abalone, shark’s fin and fish maw), Chinese medicine (ranging from herbs to more exotic dried seahorses and geckos), and bird’s nest (a Chinese delicacy), most of them around Wing Lok Street near the MTR exit.
There are also a few famous Chiu Chow restaurants (which serve light, fresh cuisine), as Sheung Wan used to be where immigrants from the coastal Guangdong town congregated and did business.
There were once a lot of print shops here, too, but one by one they have been pushed out by trendy cafés and restaurants, galleries and shops. The most interesting part of Sheung Wan is further up the hill, where small streets have become home to arty hangouts that only those in the know are privy to.
Sheung Wan is the western terminus of the blue Island line – at least for now, as the West Island Line extension opens next year. It is also possible to walk here from Central, or take a short tram ride and get off at the red-brick Western Market, a heritage building.
THE NEW...
A small French community seems to have sprung up here – starting with La Creperie next to the Holiday Inn Express, which is packed on weekends with locals and expats tucking into savoury and sweet crêpes. Set lunch costs HK$88 (£7). 69 Jervois Street; tel +852 2679 4666.
Right around the corner on Hillier Street, before the steps leading up to Queen’s Road Central, La Rotisserie always attracts queues for its delicious takeaway chicken (a quarter-chicken is HK$50/£4). 255 Queen’s Road Central; tel +852 2324 1898.
About five minutes’ walk up the hill on Wa Lane, hidden near the junction of Hollywood Road and Possession Street, French canteen La Cantoche sits right next to a local Chinese canteen and has table football and a darts board. The menu allows you to construct your own dish, selecting the meat first and then sides. Don’t miss the homemade nougat ice cream with crushed M&Ms. About HK$200 (£16) per person for dinner. 5 Wa Lane; tel +852 2426 0880.
From Hollywood Road, head to Pound Lane and walk up four flights of stairs to Café Loisl. You’ll discover a little piece of European café culture in a quiet cul de sac that sees very little traffic. A cappuccino costs HK$36 (£3), and specials such as wiener schnitzel are offered on weekends for HK$98 (£8) with a cup of coffee. 8 Tai On Terrace; tel +852 9179 0209.
THE OLD...
Despite the influx of hipster hangouts, Sheung Wan still maintains much of its old-school charm. What many locals have forgotten is that Pound Lane was home to some of Hong Kong’s earliest inhabitants, though their settlements no longer remain.
There are, however, temples dating back to the 19th century. A key historical site is Possession Street, where the British colonists first landed.
Walk down Possession and through Bonham Strand and you will soon spot the century-old Western Market (westernmarket.com.hk). Much of the structure has been maintained but it has been turned into more or less a mini-mall.
Other than having dim sum at the Grand Stage restaurant on the upper level (where you can admire the original Edwardian walls and ceiling), another tourist attraction is the first-floor fabric market. Lee Loy Piece Goods has suit cloth starting from HK$450 (£36) a yard (you need 3.5 yards for a two-piece suit). Owner Chan Sun can also recommend a local tailor, where it costs HK$2,000 (£161) to have the suit made. Shop 108, tel +852 2544 3917.
At 124-130 Hollywood Road you will find Man Mo Temple (open 8am-6pm), which is more than 150 years old, and where you can have your fortune told for a fee. Afterwards, head down the steps to Cat Street antique market, where an array of collectibles are on display in shops or on the street – remember to bargain.
HOTEL OPENINGS
Located 15 to 20 minutes’ walk from the dining district of Soho, the 274-room Holiday Inn Express Hong Kong Soho opened at the end of 2012 and features meeting rooms with harbour views on the 38th floor. 83 Jervois Street; ihg.com
Opened in August last year, the 550-room Hotel Ibis Hong Kong Central and Sheung Wan is a few minutes’ walk from Western Market. 28 Des Voeux Road West; accor.com
Ovolo 286 QRC, relaunched last summer, is from the Hong Kong-based Ovolo group, which also has serviced apartments around town. The 60-room property is both functional and fun, as shown by the goodie bags that are given to every guest. 286 Queen’s Road Central; ovologroup.com
