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Escape to Jaisalmer: Golden memoirs

16 Aug 2017 by Akanksha Maker
Sam Sand Dunes & top of Jaisalmer Fort

Akanksha Maker tours the Rajasthani city with a hint of luxury

After recently visiting Jaipur and Udaipur, Rajasthan hailed me back yet another time. This time to a destination that remained on my bucket list for too long — Jaisalmer. As the airport here is not in operation, travellers fly to Jodhpur and drive on National Highway 11 towards Jaisalmer for 239km. From Mumbai there is only one flight per day to Jodhpur that is operated by Air India. It arrived at around 11am where my ride to Jaisalmer was waiting for me.

The car sent to me by Marriott Resort Jaisalmer (marriott.com) was equipped with wifi, USB charging points, an iPad loaded with music, neck pillows, eye masks and snacks. This rather long journey of four and a half hours was breezy, thanks to these amenities.

As we approached the outskirts of Jaisalmer, the winding highway got replaced by yellow sandstone buildings that are synonymous with this city — attributing to its title of “Golden City”. Soon we arrived at the gates of Marriott Resort Jaisalmer. A traditional vermilion dot was placed on my forehead and a refreshing drink welcomed me into the white marble lobby. I particularly liked the age old haveli (mansion) door that embellishes a stark wall, apart from antique curios and elaborate light installations.

The lengthy journey called for a relaxing evening in my Jaisalmer Marriott suite, where a plate of traditional Rajasthani sweets accompanied an espresso from the Nesspreso machine in the living room. The suite’s master bedroom is attached to a large bathroom with a bathtub that was decorated with rose petals.

What I liked about my suite is that while it exudes Rajasthani elegance through elements such as artwork and upholstery, its decor isn’t too over the top. Colours are warm and clean lines add a minimal touch to the space. The windows in the room and the living room overlook Oasis, the hotel’s central courtyard. The property’s layout resembles that of a typical Rajasthani haveli with rooms surrounding a central courtyard.

After my nap and a quick shower, I was invited to experience a spa treatment at Quan Spa, the spa brand of Marriott Hotels and Resorts. My therapist recommended the 90-minute Thar Signature Massage that uses heated bags of white sand and warm oil to relieve tension in the muscles.

The treatment took away the four-hour drive’s stress and built up an appetite. Since I requested for a meal in my suite, the hotel set up a lovely dinner table for one in my living room. What arrived next was a lavish three-course meal. A sumptuous mushroom soup, a Greek salad and grilled chicken satiated me; but there is always room for dessert. A crème brûlèe finished this extravagant in-room dining experience as I called it a day.

Jain temple inside Jaisalmer Fort

Next morning, I woke up refreshed and ready to dive into the magic of this beautiful city. Since winter had not yet departed, the mornings had a nip in the air. For breakfast, I chose to sit in the al fresco dining area of Jaisalmer Kitchen that is located in the courtyard of the hotel. Accompanying my hearty breakfast was the rhythm of traditional Rajasthani folk music performed by a local artiste.

Later, I partook in a masterclass organised for me by Marriott Resort Jaisalmer. Executive chef Ashish Deva took me through the basics of Rajasthani cooking. I learned how to prepare sangri ki shikanpuri, a patty made of sangri — a vegetable that is found only in arid regions, mainly in the Thar Desert. It’s about getting the right ingredients in order to get that perfect acidity in the dish. This includes red and green chillies, cumin, dried coriander, cheese, onions and a whole bunch of masalas. Mould the mix into perfectly round patties then deep-fry them in clarified butter (ghee).

What followed was an extremely indulgent Rajasthani thali — a set menu of local dishes — and my own preparation over an extended lunch. The six dishes were plated as a piece of art around my copper plate and I was offered a choice of Indian artisanal breads. Laal maans (red meat curry), ker sangri (sangri tossed in spices), Rajasthani lentils and gatte ki sabji (gram flour balls) were some of the items served. The colours, aromas and spices of my thali were appetising even before the first bite. I was also offered a refreshing choice of freshly made flavoured iced-teas (pomegranate, jaggery and date), presented in mason jars.

The chef insisted I taste daal baati churma — flaky round bread, dipped in clarified butter, then crushed in jaggery and served with lentils — to complete this feast. No Rajasthani celebration is complete without this dish that can be very heavy to digest. I opted to only taste it as I wanted to leave room for jalebi (coil of batter fried in sugar syrup) with rabdi (condensed milk dish) as a sweet end to this memorable meal. As for the daal baati churma, it can be enjoyed by itself as a big meal.

I was most excited for what was lined up ahead in my schedule. The dunes of Jaisalmer are large stretches of sand that form the boundary between India and Pakistan. We drove 40km away from the city towards Sam Sand Dunes through roads protected by the Indian Armed Forces. On reaching Sam Sand Dunes, we began dune bashing, a form of off-roading on the sand mounds. Our driver deflated the tyres slightly to make it easier to rev through the sand. With seat belts tightened, adrenalin rushed through our veins as we drove fearlessly, as if rebelling against this calm spread of sand.

Soon, I alighted on my next ride for the day — and this one was a resident of the mighty Thar himself. Shah Rukh Khan, the camel who took me around the dune, was chaperoned by his owner who shared some interesting stories about life in his town. Since Jaisalmer receives very little rainfall, agriculture is not a possibility. Locals rely on tourism and yellow sandstone trading to make a living.

What I saw next was one of the most surreal experiences of my trip. I had heard all about the beautiful sunsets here, but underestimated what I would witness. The skies were mostly clear and the clouds made a picturesque backdrop for the sun to descend against. Crimsons and charred yellows filled my vision, as we silently sat observing the magnitude of nature. In that moment, I learned that we were in fact closer to a village in Pakistan than to a big Indian city.

Mahendra Singh Ujjawal and the Gadi Sagar lake

The next morning was dedicated to touring the gems of the “Golden City”. Mahendra Singh Ujjawal, a learned gentleman, took me to the Gadi Sagar lake, where we began the jaunt. This man-made lake was once the only source of water in this desert until 1965. Built in 1367 by Maharawal Gadsi Singh, Gadi Sagar is surrounded by age-old shrines and temples, which are frequently visited by migratory birds flocking to India.

An interesting story is the one about the 14th century Tilon-ki-Pol, an enchanting gateway. It was built by a renowned prostitute of that time as an imposing entrance to the lake. Made in yellow sandstone, this dilapidated structure bears intricate carvings and minarets from its time. Legend has it that Maharawal Gadsi Singh refused to pass through the gateway because of the disreputable character of its creator and wished to tear it down. The prostitute built a Krishna temple on the facade to deter this from happening, ultimately convincing Gadsi Singh to pass through it.

Walking past street vendors of local curios and souvenirs such as puppets and Rajasthani musical instruments, Ujjawal directed me to the top of a hill nearby. Once atop, he pointed to the colossal yellow sandstone fortress that stood at a distance before us. The magnitude of this Jaisalmer Fort, or Golden Fort as nicknamed by locals, was overwhelming. Surrounding it are humble village homes made of the same stone that look as if they are covered in a sheath of gold.

A short drive took us to the gates of this citadel that’s famed for being India’s only living fort since it’s still inhabited by locals. It was built by Rawal Jaisal in 1156 to protect his territory against his cousin in a civil war. Since it fell on the Silk Road — the ancient trading route during the medieval times — it became a prominent warehousing hub. After India’s partition, the route closed, leading to an eventual downfall of this once glorious fortress. At one time, it is believed that all of Jaisalmer’s population resided inside Jaisalmer Fort.

This fort is built on a height and reflects a dewy gold that alters shades with the passing of the day. Ujjawal walked me through the fort that is lined with carpet vendors, puppeteers and local performers dressed in embellished clothing. As we continued uphill, we came across Raj Mahal (Royal Palace), a number of Jain temples, imposing gateways and merchant havelis. Its Jain temples were built in the early 16th century and are dedicated to various Jain prophets. The imposing structures are not only religiously important, but are also known for their striking details. Built in the intricate Rajput style of architecture, their facades — both exterior and interior — bear carvings of geometric patterns, medieval animals and mythical dancers.

We also walked past the age-old havelis of affluent Rajasthani merchants, some of which are still occupied by their families. These mansions are so ornate that they appear to be nothing less than royal palaces. A few boast of innumerable rooms, corridors, doors and balconies etched with brilliant carvings across yellow sandstone walls. For spectacular views of the city, keep walking uphill until you reach the highest point of the fort.

This structure is also dotted with modest restaurants and cafes serving international cuisines. They add a subtle touch of modernity to the place. I picked up a leather bag from one of the several retail shops selling high-quality leather accessories. While they claim it’s camel leather, it’s actually calf — but still worth the steal you get after bargaining a little. A must-try when here are the iconic Ghotua Ladoos (circular shaped Indian sweet) sold at Dhanraj Bhatia Sweets around the fort area. These melt-in-your-mouth ladoos are known for their premium quality ingredients such as pure clarified butter and condensed milk. There is also a legal shop that sells marijuana products in this area.

A tired but culturally satiated soul, I made my way back to the hotel. It was dusk already and a traditional performance was underway in the courtyard of the property. A potter made perfectly round clay pots for kids to play with in one corner. Dinner was set up here and I was introduced to Marriott’s “cocktails on wheels” concept. The F&B team has crafted five unique cocktails named after various stations in Rajasthan. These include Jaipur Station — The Pink Mahal  (vodka, triple sec, and cranberry juice), Jaisalmer Station — Jaisalmeri Thandai (whisky, nuts puree, milk and ice) and Udaipur Station — The White Pichola (vodka, lychee, rose, lime, egg white and soda). Easy to guess that I tried Jaisalmer Station; it was well flavoured and not too sweet.

Since I requested for a light dinner, the hotel delighted me with charred salmon and avocado salad, and tortilla soup. I went easy on the main that was cajun chicken and Mexican rice. The dessert — chocolate fondant with vanilla ice-cream and hot chilli cocoa — was delightful. The other options to dine at the property include Dunes Bar, Wyra Rooftop Restaurant (grill) and The Mithai Company (sweet and savoury snacks).

My last night here, concluding my jaunt of cultural decadence were conversations with hotel guests about the ways of this magical city and plans for my next visit.

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