One of Africa’s fastest-growing cities, Khartoum is reaching another crossroads in its colourful history, Chris Breese reports
Great cities often spring from humble beginnings. From ritzy Las Vegas to cosmopolitan Paris, there’s often an unremarkable story behind how some of the world’s most famous cities grew to capture global consciousness.
Less than two centuries old, Khartoum, capital of Sudan, started without much fanfare in 1821 as an outpost of the Egyptian army. Today, it is one of North Africa’s busiest and most fascinating cities, benefiting from increased diplomatic and trade links, especially with China.
Now home to more than two million people, the city is renowned as the point where the two Nile rivers – the White Nile from Lake Victoria and the Blue Nile from Ethiopia – meet.
From here on, the famous River Nile heads north to Egypt. In a sense, the city is actually three hubs in one – Omdurman in the northwest, north Khartoum where most of the industry is concentrated, and Khartoum.
Sudan, itself, covers a large section of northeast Africa, bordered by Egypt to the north and Ethiopia to the east. On its northeastern coastline are the waters of the Red Sea, and across them, the coast of Saudi Arabia and Jeddah. A sprawling metropolis in the centre of the country, Khartoum sizzles, and even in January, temperatures are well above 20°C.
It is also a predominantly Muslim hub, where Arabic is the first language, although other languages are used and English is spoken by most business professionals and hotel staff. Sudan boasts hundreds of tribes, and as a result, there are also about a hundred tribal languages.
Khartoum first became capital of Anglo-Egyptian Sudan in 1899, and the capital of independent Sudan in 1956 after it broke away from its British colonisers. Another turning point came in 1977 when an oil pipeline between the city and Port Sudan began operations.
Oil now plays a major role stimulating Sudan’s economy, and Khartoum is home to a refinery and petroleum product businesses. Textiles, printing and food processing likewise play a major role expanding a fast-growing job market.
Links with Asia have started to flourish only in recent years. In 1995, Khartoum was twinned with Wuhan in Hubei, China and relations between the two countries continue to deepen.
In February, Chinese president Hu Jintao made his fourth visit to Africa, signalling his government’s commitment to furthering ties with its third largest trading partner. His itinerary may not have included Sudan this time around, but China remains one of the country’s biggest international investors, particularly in the area of oil projects. It is one of its most staunch defenders in the international arena.
Petronas, the Malaysian state oil company, has taken stake in Sudan’s economy, shaking hands with authorities in 2005 on an oil refinery deal. But the project has since been delayed, although a recent Reuters report quoted officials saying they would meet with the company to draw up plans for a revival.
The Asian influence is undeniably visible in Sudan. Offices of Chinese gas companies and Korean electronics firms have set up shop in Khartoum. Seoul-based LG recently established a base in Khartoum to “respond promptly and effectively to customer needs in the Sudan”. Cracking the likes of the Sudanese market and Africa as a whole is seen as key to the chaebol’s efforts to become one of the top three electronics firms in the world.
Asian businessmen aren’t the only ones interested to get their foot in the door. Middle Eastern firms are also keen to cash in on the Khartoum boom. Qatar Airways, which opened an office in 2002, now runs daily flights between Doha and the Sudanese capital. Besides oil, Sudan has also become attractive for its ability to supply agricultural products. Jordan recently became one of the latest countries to join the growing list of investors in Sudanese farmland.
These developments began in the 1990s after the US imposed trade sanctions on Khartoum, accusing the government of condoning atrocities in the western Darfur region.
Instead, Khartoum found other strategies to survive, and as a result, has prospered. Supermarkets, luxury hotels and new apartment projects are springing up from what was once only dust.
Only a few travellers, except for the most experienced, will know that Khartoum is an interesting tourism destination. Sadly, the civil war in Darfur – the stuff of many a CNN special report – has kept the negative image of the country foremost in the public’s mind. But those who have visited will declare its open markets or souqs a bargain hunter’s dream and notably, Souq Arabi located in one of the most vibrant precincts of the city, which is a treasure chest of great finds.
Certainly, a must-see is the Sudan National Museum for its stunning Egyptian artefacts. The exhibit on the stone-age period in Sudan and two reconstructed ancient temples in the yard should not be missed.
The point where both the White and Blue Nile meet is spectacular. The curving shape, created as one meets the other, resembles an elephant’s trunk when seen on a map – the name “Khartoum” actually means elephant’s trunk.
Avid walkers will discover the capital city does not lack attractive areas to experience. In fact, there are many peaceful, tree-lined streets close to the river banks.
For the country’s future as a whole, question marks still hover over relations between North Sudan and South Sudan. An agreement on a unity government, which included the pro-south Sudan People’s Liberation Army, broke down in 2007, leading some to fear a return to further internecine strife.
Conflict and unrest still exists between the government and rebel groups from the Darfur region to the West, although peace talks have recently sputtered to a restart. Sudanese president Omar al-Bashir remains a controversial figure, particularlyin the eyes of Western governments, over the extent of his control of attacks by troops and militia groups on villages in Darfur.
Much depends on the future of Darfur, but at least, Khartoum is proving an example of determined economic planning and political will.
Poverty and isolation were once weighty issues for Sudan, but now that new friends are being made on the international stage, things are changing for the better. Hopes are high that Khartoum’s example can be replicated elsewhere in the country. After an endless history of war and unrest, Sudan certainly deserves it.
Fast Facts
VISAS:
Everyone visiting Sudan needs a visa, and depending on where you are travelling from, a fee may well be involved. You may also need a letter of invitation from an appropriate embassy, again depending on your nationality. People who have an Israeli entry or exit stamp in their passports are routinely denied entry. Those travelling independently will also need to register promptly on arrival with the authorities, including the police. Permits are needed to travel to certain parts of wider Sudan.
ARRIVING:
The main port of entry by air is at Khartoum International Airport, the largest in Sudan, where flights arrive from the Middle East with the likes of Qatar Airways among others, Europe and other parts of Africa. A new airport, 40km south of the city, is scheduled to open in 2010, featuring expanded capacity and a 300-room hotel.
TRANSPORTATION:
Taxi and bus services are readily available. You don’t have to travel far to reach downtown as the airport terminal is close to the city centre.
ACCOMMODATION:
There is a good selection. The Pullman Hotel Khartoum (www.accor.com) – formerly the Hilton – and Grand Holiday Villa Hotel and Suites (www.holidayvillakhartoum.com) are located on Nile Avenue and overlook the Nile River. Dandas International Hotel (email [email protected]), on the corner of Abu Sin and El Sharif streets, is popular with business travellers, and breakfast is included in the price. More expensive hotels include the Al Salam Rotana (www.rotana.com) on Africa Road.
CURRENCY:
About 2.35 Sudanese pounds to US$1. Some establishments may not accept credit cards, so it would be wise to also bring cash.
