Delta force

Foshan is one of China’s Pearl River Delta manufacturing powerhouses, with a long history of trade. Tamsin Cocks reports If you’ve never heard of Foshan, don’t worry – you’re not alone. Despite being one of the most important economic regions in the Pearl River Delta, and an ancient cultural centre, the city isn’t that well known outside China. Inside, it’s a different story. Foshan is an economic powerhouse with a population of more than seven million people – the same as Hong Kong. It’s the third-most important manufacturing hub in Southern China, after Shenzhen and Guangzhou, with a number of specialised industries. One of these is the production of home appliances, thanks to big Chinese firms such as Midea and Hisense Kelon, while other core sectors include telecommunications, furniture, metals, plastics and ceramics. Foshan first rose to prominence during the Tang Dynasty (618-906AD) and was renowned for its skilled artisans, flourishing art scene, fertile lands and productive fisheries. The area continued to prosper throughout the Ming (1368-1644) and Qing dynasties (1644-1911), and gained a special place in Chinese history as one of four recognised “ancient towns” (the others being Hankou, Jingdezhen and Zhuxianzhen). It has been credited with giving birth to Cantonese opera, ceramics and certain forms of martial arts. As the locals are proud to tell you, Foshan was one of the first places in China to open up for foreign trade, and thanks to favourable administrative reforms, this legacy persists with a receptive atmosphere for overseas investment. Companies that have set up large-scale manufacturing operations here include Audi, Volkswagen, Siemens and Toshiba. Getting here is relatively simple. The closest major airport is Guangzhou Baiyun International, about an hour’s drive from central Foshan. Rail and metro networks have been extensively developed, and travellers can reach the centre of the city in just over half an hour from Guangzhou railway station. WHERE TO STAY Hilton Foshan The 600-room Hilton opened last year and is a good choice for business travellers. It is slightly out of the way – a 15- to 20-minute taxi ride to the CBD costs 20-25 yuan (£3) – but the concierge can order a cab and provide directions, and a return address written in Chinese. Standard city-view rooms (40-50 sqm) are well equipped with a desk, universal power points, large LCD TV, bath and rainshower. There are 31 meeting rooms and a 1,300-sqm pillar-free ballroom as well as a spacious executive lounge. hilton.com Marco Polo Lingnan Tiandi Foshan In terms of location, this hotel is an excellent choice, in the middle of Chancheng CBD and close to local attractions. The 390 rooms and suites feature light décor and furnishings and many offer views over the Lingnan Tiandi heritage development and Zumiao Ancestral Temple. There is a 1,260 sqm ballroom, three food and drink venues and an executive lounge. marcopolohotels.com Shunde Marriott Hotel The most recent hotel opening in Foshan is the five-star Shunde Marriott at the beginning of this year. All 258 guestrooms feature either a view of Shunfeng Mountain Park or the city’s skyline, and come with marble bathrooms, minibars, desks and safes. Executive rooms and suites are located on the 28th floor, near the executive lounge. There are three choices of restaurant, serving local and international fare, and a 1,400 sqm, pillarless grand ballroom. marriott.com WHERE TO EAT Wumi Zhou Housed in a heritage building, Wumi Zhou’s original walls, floor and other features have been immaculately restored, and the restaurant has lots of private rooms tucked away down higgledy-piggledy corridors. It serves a Foshanian specialty – porridge hot pot. It sounds bizarre, but it is delicious. Meat, seafood and vegetables are cooked in a wok full of a bubbling congee-like substance, which gives the food a light, almost creamy texture and delicate flavour. Other Cantonese specialities include youtiao (deep-fried dough sticks) and Chencun fen rice noodles. 6 Wenming Lane, Lingnan Tiandi, Chancheng District; tel +86 757 6669 1922/6669 1822. Yuu For excellent Japanese food, head to the Hilton Foshan’s Yuu. Dark, oriental décor illuminated with low lighting creates an intimate feel. Most of the tables are enclosed in individual booths, aside from a teppanyaki bar beside the open kitchen. The set menu is highly recommended. Starting with a fresh selection of sashimi and sushi, the courses include tender grilled beef, clear seafood soup served in a teapot, and salt baked ayu fish. The Golden Sword sake cocktail is a must. Open 5.30pm-10pm daily. Hilton Foshan, 127 Lingnan North Avenue, Chancheng; tel +86 757 8306 9999; hilton.com WHAT TO SEE According to the local saying – if you haven’t been to Zumiao, you haven’t been to Foshan. The 900-year-old Zumiao Ancestral Temple (open 8.30am-6pm daily; 20 yuan/£3; fszumiao.com) is a much-revered cultural and geographical focal point in the city. It is located in the heart of the Chancheng CBD and is a welcome oasis of calm, as much a tourist spot as it is a refuge for elderly citizens, who can enter for free. The temple offers daily Chinese opera performances and “lion” dances, as well as various exhibits. One focuses on Wing Chun martial arts practitioner Yip Man – one of Foshan’s most famous sons, and sifu (master and tutor) of Bruce Lee. Fans of Lee may be interested to know that his family has its roots in Foshan, and his ancestral home in Shang village, Shunde District, is open to the public. Another popular attraction is the Qinghui Garden in Shunde district, although if you’re based in Chancheng, Liang’s Gardens (93 Xiangfeng Gu Dao; 10 yuan/£1.50) are closer, and filled with water features, koi ponds and beautiful blooms. The Ancient Nanfeng Kiln is also a must-see, with the original 500-year-old pottery kilns still on display and the opportunity to see modern craftsmen at work – and even have a go yourself. Close to Zumiao Ancestral Temple, in Chancheng CBD, is Foshan Lingnan Tiandi, an ongoing restoration project by the Shui On Land development company, responsible for Shanghai’s charming Xintiandi district. Aside from a few questionable choices (a Hello Kitty café?), it has been tastefully put together. There are 22 monuments and 128 traditional buildings – including the original “marriage house” – and many have been carefully renovated to maintain the original façade. Coffee shops with old-style bamboo bar doors, boutiques housed under traditional “wok handle” style roofs, and an assortment of restaurants, bars and cafés are dotted throughout. It has a good atmosphere, even midweek, and is a popular destination for visitors to congregate – ideal for those travelling alone. In the evening, the area springs to life with music venues, nightclubs and open-air bars. Luxury apartments, modern shopping malls and more heritage conservation sites are also being developed.