Daniel J Allen tests his endurance in two of Asia's best-known climbing spots, picking up a trick or two about making it to the top.
Embracing the gnarly rock face 50m above the golden sand, I experienced a sense of splendid isolation. Adrenaline seemed to give the pristine colours of the landscape an extra vivid hue, as small puffs of cotton-wool cloud moved lethargically across the sky. The small crowd of neophyte climbers at the base of the towering karst cliff-face was obscured by the narrow ledge on which I was resting. In the distance, long tails ferried their cargo of tourists across the glittering aquamarine water.
The resort of Railay, in southern Thailand, is justifiably renowned for its climbing. Weathered limestone peaks and cliffs rise dramatically behind the twin sandy crescents of East and West Railay Bays, providing almost endless possibilities for anyone to test and improve their climbing prowess. Whether you’re an absolute beginner or hardened pro, it’s tough to beat Railay’s mix of spectacular scenery, hedonistic environment and concentration of friendly, knowledgeable and well-qualified Thai instructors.
For a relatively inexperienced climber like myself, having a trainer whom you trust is essential. Perched precariously on a few inches of horizontal limestone way above the beach below, it was reassuring to see that the figure-of-eight knot roping my safety harness to Jay, my instructor for the day, was in perfect shape. Of course, if I’d made a hash of the knot, I wouldn’t have been allowed to go up in the first place – checking and re-checking safety features is one of the most fundamental aspects of climbing.
Resisting the temptation to peer over the lip of my resting place, I craned my head back and scanned the remaining cliff above, which eventually ended in a crown of lush vegetation and sliver of deep blue sky. Another 10m of smooth rock face separated me from the top ring through which my rope was threaded. To my untrained eye, it looked about as climbable as the north face of the Eiger. Learning to read the rock face is another key part of climbing, and at that point, I still had to learn my ABCs.
Dipping my sweat-soaked hands in the chalk bag tied to my waist, I reached up, feeling for any kind of handhold. There was something immensely satisfying with finding a decent purchase on the rock, and I finally located a crevice into which I could insert a couple of fingers.
Following instructions from Jay, who had earlier climbed the same route with consummate ease, I inched my way upwards, trying to balance body weight on my legs as I moved. When your foothold happened to be a small dimple in the rock, this was easier said than done, although my ultra-tight climbing shoes certainly helped with their adhesive grip.
As I neared the top ring, my arms were aflame with lactic acid and cried out to be released from their physical torture. Uttering an appropriate expletive through gritted teeth, I summoned up all remaining bodily strength, heaved myself vertically on four fingertips, and touched the metal loop that marked the apex of this bolted run. The climb was nearly over.
Yelling “tension” at full volume, I felt the rope tauten as Jay took up the slack. Releasing my grip, I fell back into the harness, swinging and gyrating next to the rock face.
When I had first started real outdoor climbing a few days ago, learning to let go had proved extremely difficult. But now, with Jay holding my life in his hands 60m below, any remaining fear was replaced by a combination of exhaustion and elation. I took a few seconds to appreciate the glorious view across the bay before abseiling to ground level and some hearty backslapping by my fellow climbers.
I was thrilled at having scaled the run successfully. Although the route hadn’t been particularly demanding technically, I’d used every ounce of bodily energy to reach the top. For me, this is the real beauty of climbing – everybody can push themselves to the limit, regardless of age or ability. Once you’ve accomplished your goal and basked in a well-earned sense of achievement, there’s always a fresh route to conquer, offering new challenges and rewards to those with the drive and determination to succeed.
A few hours of climbing makes for an intensive workout. When you’re 50m up on a slender piece of nylon rope, it’s just you and the rock. For me, nothing else focuses the brain in quite the same way. There’s no rush, no sudden movement, but just the deliberate application of mind and body to a constant and all-encompassing natural contest. At the end of the day, calloused hands and aching limbs tell the physical side of the story, but there’s undoubtedly a more subtle, mental challenge to climbing that is equally demanding.
For those taking a break from the rock face, Railay offers a great range of other pursuits. Although climbing is a big part of the Railay scene, kayaking, hiking, snorkelling and sunbathing are also popular pastimes. After a hard afternoon on the cliffs, a Thai massage can inject the tiredest of muscles with a new lease of life, and hearty appetites are sated on fresh seafood and fragrant curries.
Whether you’re on your own or with a group, climbing is a great way to make new friends. Railay has a wide range of climbing shops, some of which have bars and climbing walls along the beachfront. While gatherings are not exclusive, climbers of all backgrounds tend to congregate in the evening for a few beers, exchange tales of heroic feats, and pick up tips from instructors in exchange for a mojito or two.
I first learned to climb in China, so it was natural that I would sooner or later end up in Yangshuo, the country’s best known climbing destination. Located in southern China’s Guangxi Province, the area around Yangshuo contains some staggeringly beautiful landscapes. An almost extra-terrestrial topography of towering karst fingers and peaks dominates the skyline, intersected by the Li and Dragon Rivers, whose waters reflect their surroundings in picture-postcard splendour.
If a climber could design his own personal paradise, it would probably look something like Yangshuo.
Although the climbing scene in Yangshuo is not as developed as in Railay, recent years have seen an explosion in the number of climbing shops, and there are now over 300 bolted runs for people of all abilities. For beginners, most shops offer equipment rental, one- or multi-day trips and a place to hang out, chat about potential routes and find a partner. Yangshuo’s oldest climbing establishment is the Karst Café off West Street, and that’s where I headed on my first morning in town.
Passing through the narrow doorway, the first thing that hit me was the heady aroma of freshly cooked pizza. It seems almost every restaurant in town offers burgers, shepherd’s pie and a Western breakfast, plus local specialties like fish hot pot, mud snails and even snake.
Tearing my mind away from food for a second, I tracked down Simon Wilson, accomplished climber and Australian manager of Karst Café.
Wilson is a handy man to know in Yangshuo. In addition to running the restaurant and its climbing operations, he can tell you where to eat (and where not to) and help organise kayak trips, bamboo rafting, hot-air balloon rides and cycle hire. He also has an uncanny knack for sizing up climbing ability, and had soon set me up on a half-day trip to a rock face known locally as the “beer bottle”.
While climbing is possible all year round in Yangshuo, the best times are spring and autumn (November to May is high season in Railay). Unfortunately, I had chosen to visit in mid-July, which meant every time I emerged from an air-conditioned room it felt like somebody was enclosing my body in a hot towel. Nevertheless, I wiped the sweat from my brow, grabbed my climbing gear and jumped in the back of the Karst’s runaround, which took us the short distance to the rock face.
The Chinese love to baptise any rock formation with a name, frequently an obscure one. Many times have I stood bemused before a peak said to resemble a bat’s ear or Zhou Enlai’s left leg. On this occasion, however, I could immediately see how the peak behind our intended climb could be mistaken for the top of a beer bottle, and took this as a good sign for the morning’s activities.
Despite lacking sea views like Railay, Yangshuo’s climbing vistas are still breathtaking. After my instructor Aja had set the rope, I eagerly warmed up on an easy climb, and before long had a magnificent angle of the nearby karst landscape. I spied a meandering river above, which hovered a trail of mist that had resisted the burning sun, and limestone peaks of various shapes and sizes reared up from dense green foliage as far as the eye could see.
Before long, I’d managed three successive routes of increasing difficulty, although I still had to rely on Aja’s expert guidance during several tricky stages. I was soaked with sweat; my fingers could barely remove my chalk bag and assorted small cuts and bruises laced my legs like I’d been hit with grapeshot. It was punishing work, but I was in climbing heaven.
WHO NEEDS A MOUNTAIN?
Rock-climbing instructors often remark that the best students tend to be small, thin teenage girls, and the worst, boys on the football team. The boys think they can just pull themselves up the cliff; it works for a while, but the cliff outlasts their biceps. The girls, on the other hand, know they haven’t a chance of pulling themselves up, so they focus on their footwork. Your legs are far stronger than your arms, and will go much further without tiring.
Technique is more important than brute strength in climbing. Doing chin-ups can give you extra arm strength that will help, but the primary focus should still be on using your leg muscles, rather than arms, as much as possible.
Indoor rock climbing is fun, social and a great workout and will certainly help improve technique. Climbing gyms are located in most major cities; they are open late at night and are warm and dry when the weather is bad. The gym is a perfect way to learn the basics and a nice introduction before you try anything outdoors.
Many climbing gyms offer introductory packages including equipment rental, use of facilities and classes. The classes generally teach how to belay, how to tie in to a harness and movement techniques. They are also excellent for getting to know other people at your skill level.
The greatest benefit of joining a gym is that it makes you go, because the best way to improve your climbing is through practice and repetition. It is also less expensive.
A trip to the gym is much more enjoyable if you have friends to climb with, so be sociable. Choosing partners at your skill level will enhance the quality of your experience. It’s also wise to hire a trainer – one-to-one climbing coaches will help you develop movement techniques and teach you how to reduce the chance of injuring yourself.
HANDY HINTS
Cross train. Diversifying the physical activities you do will make you stronger and reduce any chance of injury.
Warm up. Integrate cardiovascular exercise into the start of your gym workouts to increase blood flow and limber up your muscles.
Don’t overdo it. Climbing on the ergonomic climbing holds can torque your tendons and muscles. Train in the gym no more than three days a week when learning to climb, and stop if you experience pain.
Once you have become familiar with the moves, it is time to head outside. With their well-developed climbing infrastructure and range of routes, Railay and Yangshuo are both great places to get accustomed to outdoor climbing in Asia. These climbing outfits are recommended:
King Climbers (Railay)
Where: Next to YaYa Resort, West Railay, Krabi, Thailand
Price: Approximately US$15 for a half-day climb with equipment hire
Contact: Somporn Suebhait, tel 66 75 637 125, email [email protected] or visit www.railay.com
Karst Café (Yangshuo)
Where: 42 Xianqian Street (off West Street), Yangshuo, Guangxi, China
Price: About US$25 for a half-day climb with equipment hire
Contact: Simon Wilson, tel 86 773 882 8482, email [email protected] or visit www.karstclimber.com
