Features

Czech it out

29 Aug 2013 by GrahamSmith

Want to escape the crowds in Prague? Jacy Meyer reveals where the locals go

Most first-time visitors to Prague follow a well-trodden path – watching the Astronomical Clock on Old Town Square strike the hour before crossing Charles Bridge and making the long trek up to Prague Castle.

But there’s a lot more to the city than that, and if business has brought you here, it’s well worth extending your trip to immerse yourself in its lesser-known pleasures.

“Walking even 15 metres off the main strip, you’ll find the streets are virtually without people,” says Igor Kovacevic, an architect and partner in MOBA studio, who has lived here for more than 20 years. “These parallel streets are easy to get lost on but the walk is much more pleasant.”

Here are some suggestions of what to see in the city from the people who experience it daily.


Coffee stop

One of Igor Kovacevic’s Saturday traditions is brunch at Café Savoy, which first opened its doors in the quiet Mala Strana neighbourhood along the river in 1893. The atmosphere is only one of the reasons he recommends it.

“The way it was restored [in 2005] gives me a feeling of the spirit of the 20s or 30s,” he says. “It has the best service in Prague and very good Czech food.”

Featuring an ornate neo-Renaissance ceiling, the Savoy has its own on-site bakery and is a good stopping point at any time of the day, whether for breakfast, coffee and cake, or dinner – it also has a well-chosen wine list.

Guy Borg, artistic planner for the Strings of Autumn Festival, has lived here for 12 years, and has another recommendation for a caffeine stop – Mama Coffee, which has a few branches dotted around the city.

“The outside seating at the Vinohrady location is nice when it’s warm, while the one on Vodickova [in the New Town] is the largest,” he says. “For quality coffee, it is one of the best in the city.”

The first Czech roaster and retailer of fairtrade beans, Mama Coffee was formed by a husband and wife team and inspired by their memories of Ethiopia. It also serves great cakes.

  • Café Savoy open 8am-10.30pm (from 9am Sat-Sun). Vitezna 5; tel +420 257 311 562; cafesavoy.ambi.cz
  • Mama Coffee open 8am-10pm (from 10am Sat-Sun). Vodickova 6; tel +420 773 337 309; mamacoffee.cz


View from the top

There are plenty of towers to climb in Prague – Old Town Square’s Town Hall offers good views, as do the towers at both ends of Charles Bridge. But for a completely different experience, soar 93 metres up at Tower Park.

Located in a bizarre-looking TV tower in the funky Zizkov neighbourhood, ten minutes by metro from the centre, you will spot what look like huge babies crawling up the side of it.

You are not mistaken – these are the work of Czech artist David Cerny. After being closed for about two years, it reopened in September last year with a new viewing platform and eateries.

At the dining level (66 metres) you can enjoy amazing views from both the café and restaurant. There’s also a mixology bar upon which sit glass beakers and Bunsen burners – ask the bartender for the vermouth-based Moravian Rooster with a touch of cherry. 

Continue your way up to the observatory, where birds’ eye glimpses of almost every corner of Prague can be had. Touchscreens also provide virtual tours of the city, while audio-equipped chairs play sounds of Prague, and TVs show videos of other places to discover around the country.

  • Observatory entry fee is Kc150 (£5). Café and restaurant open 8am-12am daily (tel +420 210 320 088); bar 8am-1am. Mahlerovy Sady 1; towerpark.cz


Art fix

Prague boasts a wide variety of museums and galleries for art aficionados to enjoy.

Contemporary art fans will want to hit Dox – this beautifully reconstructed industrial space in the former factory district of Holesovice hosts anywhere from five to eight exhibitions at a time, so you could easily spend a few hours here.

“Dox is fantastic – there are few places in Prague where you can see quality contemporary art in a space that is very nicely designed as well,” Guy Borg says.

One of the most progressive art institutions in the country, most of Dox’s exhibits strive to place Czech art within an international context, with a big focus on contemporary issues.

For an exhibition in a completely different kind of space, Colloredo-Mansfeld Palace, recently revived by the City Gallery Prague, is the newest culture spot in town. Originally built in the early 17th century, Colloredo-Mansfeld is an outstanding example of palace architecture combining elements of Baroque and Rococo, and its current look dates back to the 1820s.

It reopened in May as a centre for modern art and, in addition to enjoying the exhibits, you can take a tour that explains the palace’s history and architecture.

  • Dox open Sat-Mon 10am-6pm, Wed-Fri 11am-7pm; entry Kc180 (£6). Poupetova 1; dox.cz
  • Colloredo-Mansfeld open Tues-Sun 10am-6pm; entry Kc60 (£2). Karlova 2, Old Town; ghmp.cz


Cubist tour

An avant-garde arts movement dating back to the 1910s, Czech Cubism was a development of functionalism by architects and designers in Prague, the second-most important centre for Cubism outside of Paris.

It encompassed art, sculpture, architecture, furniture and accessories, and practitioners developed the signature geometric designs and objects featuring sharp points, sliced planes and precise black line detailing.

Experience Cubism by visiting the House of the Black Madonna off Old Town Square. Built by Josef Gocar in 1913, the former department store now houses shops and the Grand Café Orient, which features well-preserved Cubist décor and dishware.

Then head across to the New Town and wander down the passageway of the Adria Palace. This building, which houses a theatre, café and antique bookstore, was built just as Cubism was evolving into Rondo Cubism, incorporating more ornamental elements and traditional Czech folk design. 

Lastly, pick up a Cubist souvenir at Modernista in the Old Town, which sells Czech furniture from the early 1900s and Cubist-style homeware.

  • Grand Café Orient open daily 9am-10pm (from 10am Sat-Sun). Ovocny Trh 19; tel +420 224 224 240; grandcafeorient.cz
  • Modernista open 11am-7pm daily. Celetna 12; modernista.info


After dark

The city has numerous evening entertainment options, though you may not have expected them to include ice hockey. Still, Paul Day, chef and owner of Asian restaurant Sansho (sansho.cz/en), suggests you give it a try.

“I went to my first game this year and really enjoyed it – there’s a great atmosphere,” he says. There are two first- league hockey teams in Prague – Sparta and Slavia – and the season runs from September to April.

For something more sedate, head to one of the city’s concert halls. “September is pre-season for orchestras but at other times of the year it’s worth seeing the Czech Philharmonic or the Prague Philharmonic at the Rudolfinum,” says Guy Borg.

If you’re in town over the next few months, the Strings of Autumn festival (strunypodzimu.cz) runs from September 23 to November 6 and offers a fresh line-up of jazz, classical, traditional and experimental music.

Music fans may also want to check out Jazz Dock in the Smichov business district. The quayside venue offers a diverse selection of both classical and modern jazz and blues.

 

WHERE TO EAT

Nota Bene

Prague is experiencing something of a foodie revolution, with farmers’ markets the hot place to shop.

One of the best new restaurants is Nota Bene – located in the hip Vinohrady neighbourhood next to the New Town, it prides itself on its fresh daily menu and has a basement bar with local brews. Reservations are recommended.

  • Open Mon-Fri 11am-11pm, Sat 12pm-11pm; Beerpoint Mon-Sat 5pm-2am. Mikovcova 4; tel +420 721 299 131; notabene-restaurant.cz


La Terrassa

Tapas in Prague? Probably not what you’d planned to eat, but at La Terrassa not only will you find a fabulous selection of Spanish delicacies but you’ll enjoy them all from the deck of a beautifully refurbished boat offering views of the Dancing House and Vysehrad Castle.

  • Open 11am-12am (1am Fri-Sat). Janackovo Nabrezi, Smichov; tel +420 725 161 616; laterrassa.cz


Le Patio

With city-centre dining, there’s always the worry that you are walking into a tourist trap, but don’t fear about entering Le Patio – this welcoming lantern-lit Asian-fusion restaurant serves elegant, memorable dishes.

Try the tasting menu for a flavourful experience.

  • Open 11am-11pm daily. Narodni 22; tel +420 274 810 262; le-patio.cz
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