Hidden away within an archipelago in northern Palawan, the island of Culion is a natural wonderland with a bitter-sweet past, writes Maida Pineda
Bursting into fits of giggles between incessant talking, my friend Nilda and I were definitely giddy with excitement about our trip to Culion, an island in northern Palawan still waiting to be discovered. The six British men we shared the van with from the airport asked, “So, are you divers, too?” They had flown in from Yorkshire to experience the wreck dives in Coron Bay, between the islands of Busuanga and Culion. Twenty-four Japanese vessels sank there during World War II. Now, they have become underwater homes to colourful coral and tropical fish.
“No, we’re heading to Culion, a former leper colony,” I answered. They roared with laughter, offering countless jokes about keeping our digits intact. Culion became a leper colony in 1906, but it is now free from leprosy, although the stigma remains.
Despite being only a 90-minute boat ride from the backpacker-infested town of Coron, Culion is a world apart. What greeted me was a quiet fishing village of 60,000 people living on 41 islands. You can’t miss the bright-red Catholic church perched on the cliff overlooking the cool azure waters. Its walls were from an old 1740 fortress.
I jumped out of bed at dawn to be wowed by the sunrise. But what struck me more were the Culion residents walking with the day’s fresh catch dangling from their hands. Later in the day, as we wandered the Acacia tree-lined streets, we saw the injection clinic, the men’s dormitory, the sanatorium and a museum all comprehensively documenting the island’s heart-rending past. I could not ignore its history, but neither could I resist discovering its gorgeous natural offerings.
Up in Pulang Lupa (Red Soil), I revelled in the stunning 360-degree view of mountains and surrounding islands. Walking 333 steps up the mountain, I reached Aguila, named after an eagle-shaped rock formation created by the healed leper patients. Hundreds of feet above sea level, it is the highest point on the island. But what thrilled me the most were the days spent exploring the sea. Even though I was not a diver, I managed to see a plethora of fishes and corals when I snorkelled at Bugor Marine Sanctuary. Every colour imaginable came to life.
As if that were not enough, we headed to Lusong Gunpoint Wreck. This Japanese World War II vessel sank at a shallow depth, enabling novice swimmers like me to experience breathtaking snorkelling only a few metres from the boat. Father Xavier Alpasa SJ, Culion’s resident priest, and two boatmen shared the location of a hidden hot spring few know about. It is unusual to find hot springs connected to the sea – we swam a few metres past the mangroves into soothing hot pools, with flat, natural rocks to recline on.
On our last day on the island, we staged an impromptu picnic lunch at Malcapuya white sand beach. I purchased 2.5 kilos of live crabs for a mere P300 (barely US$7) from a vendor peddling on the streets. The hotel’s cook created a feast out of the fresh vegetables, coconut milk and fish I scored from the market.
As I swam on this pristine beach, I remembered the six British divers. Perhaps there are two types of traveller: those who follow lists of attractions and those who seek new horizons. Surrounded by all the virginal beauty around me, thankfully, I belong to the latter.
GETTING THERE
Fly to Busuanga – an hour-long domestic flight – from Manila on Air Philippines Express (www.airphils.com), Cebu Pacific (www.cebupacificair.com) or Zest Air (www.zestair.com.ph). From the airport, take a half-hour van ride to the port in Coron, where there is a public boat that leaves for Culion at around 1.30pm and returns from the island at 7.30am. The cost is P160 (US$3.7). Hotels also arrange transfers for their guests.
WHERE TO STAY
Isla Culion offers only modest accommodation. Hotel Maya (www.islaculionhotelmaya.com), a recently established social enterprise, is the best bet. As the island only has electricity for 12 hours a day, Hotel Maya is equipped with a generator and 13 solar panels. A seaview junior suite costs only US$30.
WEATHER
It is 30?C and sunny most of the time in Culion. Expect rain between June and September.
