How did tea, the working man's drink, the building site cliché playing second fiddle to fashionable coffee bars, become such a hot topic? Smart teahouses are cropping up everywhere and attracting a cool crowd – a far cry from pensioners on seafronts or tourists in grand hotels. Every yuppie kitchen stocks designer tea along with single-estate olive oils and balsamic vinegar. Business meetings are held around the tea table instead of over a two-hour lunch; green tea is a superfood with irrefutable health benefits; and an acquaintance with specialist teas marks you out as refined, stylish, and above all, modern.
The statistics tell their own story. In the last five years, consumption of specialist teas in the UK has rocketed, with sales of green tea growing by 1,500 per cent and by nearly 2,000 per cent in terms of value per head of population. Meanwhile, consumption of standard black tea (white, two sugars, you know the type) fell by nearly 10 per cent.
Niche tea retailers have sprung up in major cities, and websites are doing great business as customers tire of supermarket-own brands. In terms of tea appreciation, the UK is years behind Germany, France, Japan and China, but we're catching up fast and it's a younger, more progressive consumer who's leading the charge. Just as you wouldn't dream of serving instant coffee in the boardroom or to your friends at home, there's a cachet to offering good tea – and in appreciating the difference.
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