Features

Cold Comfort in St Petersburg

28 Feb 2010

PETER AND PAUL FORTRESS

This is where it all began for the former Russian capital. Peter the Great established a fortress in 1717 as protection against the Swedish navy during the Great Northern War, and named the city after his patron saint, St Peter. Located on Zayachy Island on the north bank of the River Neva, the fortress surrounds Peter and Paul Cathedral, the soaring golden spire of which is topped with a flying angel holding a cross, which reaches to a height of 123m. Apparently, the sandy beaches underneath the fortress walls are a popular hangout for locals during the summer months, but during the winter they are more likely to be snow-covered, so head inside the cathedral and have a look at the tombs of many of Russia’s emperors, including Peter the Great himself, Catherine the Great and Nicholas II. The Museum of History is also located inside the fortress and has more than a million photographs, architectural documents and city plans. Entry is US$9. Open Wednesday-Saturday 10am-4pm and Sunday 1pm-4pm. Visit www.spmoh.org

STATE HERMITAGE MUSEUM

With more than three million treasures and works of art and sculpture spread across six interconnected, ornately decorated buildings along the bank of the River Neva, the Hermitage is one of the world’s largest museums, and the city’s must-see attraction. There are works by artists such as Picasso, Rubens, Monet, Renoir, Van Gogh, Matisse and Kandinsky, among other masters, but it is impossible to take in everything in one visit – on a tour with one of the stern-looking but incredibly knowledgeable guides, I was told: “This room contains all of the Rembrandts, but I’m afraid we simply haven’t got time for them today.” The complex of buildings is dominated by the huge Elizabethan Baroque-style Winter Palace, which was the official residence of the Russian Tsars from 1732 to 1917, when it was stormed during the Russian Revolution. Be prepared for long queues, particularly at weekends and on the first Thursday of the month, when entrance is free. Once inside, you’ll find yourself lost among the seemingly endless exhibits. Entry is Rb350 (US$12). For more details, visit www.hermitagemuseum.org

ST ISAAC’S CATHEDRAL

A brisk walk from the Hermitage, St Petersburg’s largest cathedral took 40 years to build (from 1818 to 1858), and was a dedication to Christian monk St Isaac the Confessor. Aside from the golden dome and red granite columns, the cathedral’s grey and pink exterior is relatively plain and belies the stunning interior, which features intricate mosaics, paintings and reliefs, and bucket-loads of gold. There’s also a set of eight stone columns made of brightly coloured, semi-precious malachite and lazurite, and, above the main altar, a large stained-glass window depicting the resurrection of Christ. A climb up the 300-odd steps to the top is recommended for the superb views it affords – even if the weather is chilly, the exercise should warm you up. Open Thursday-Tuesday 11am-7pm (last entry at 6pm).

WATERVILLE

If you’re looking for somewhere to keep the children warm and happy, or are just a big kid yourself, then head to Waterville at 14 Korablestroiteley on Vasilievsky Island, about 10 minutes’ drive from the city centre. One of the biggest indoor water parks in Russia, the complex is next to the enormous Park Inn Pribaltiyskaya hotel. It has eight water slides of varying degrees of scariness (one of which ends up in a “whirlpool bowl”), several pools, a “hasty river”, and five restaurants and bars. The park also includes the Roman Holidays wellness and spa centre (www.romanholidays.ru), with 1,400sqm of treatment rooms, spa baths, solariums and saunas, plus a relaxation area and health bar. Entry to Waterville is from Rb600 (US$20). Open 9am-11pm.

PAULANER BRAUHAUS

This atmospheric Bavarian restaurant is housed within the Park Inn Pulkovskaya hotel at 1 Pobedy Square, between the city centre and the airport. The décor features wooden flooring and furniture, and red and blue drapes hang from the ceiling. As the name would suggest, there are several types of the Paulaner brand of beer on tap, alongside traditional German and Russian food, and live music in the evenings. The restaurant was hugely popular when I visited, and it’s not surprising that a sister version will appear in the forthcoming Park Inn on Nevsky Prospect, which will open mid-2010 in the city centre. Open 12pm-1am. tel 7 812 7403 900, www.paulaner-brauhaus.com

GETTING THERE

St Petersburg is served by many airlines including Aeroflot, with a daily service via Sheremetyevo Moscow from cities such as Hongkong, Seoul, Shanghai and Bangkok.
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