Chengdu, China’s hub in the southwest, is poised for tremendous growth, but it’s in no hurry to give up the pleasure of its traditions, Margie T Logarta reports.
At first blush, Chengdu seems like your generic Chinese city-rushing-to-be-like-Shenzhen or Shanghai. It has the usual features – enormous shopping malls, smart high-rise apartments in various stages of competition, a burgeoning portfolio of five-star brand-name hotels, a metro line in the making, and even a new satellite city designated for government offices.
But fortunately, it’s not desperate enough to exchange overnight life’s enjoyment for lucre. Tea houses and verdant parks, lined with strollers, still abound, and people still get to where they want to go on their trusty bicycles.
But progress has definitely arrived for China’s most important hub in its southwest. Never really a backwater, the Sichuan basin, of which Chengdu is the capital, has always figured prominently in Chinese history, although not always positively. It was the site of several breakaway kingdoms, which never accepted the central authority, and was only brought into control in the third century BC as the capital of the Qin empire, although rebellious groups still manifested themselves and were never really vanquished.
During the Warring States era, Sichuan entered a long period of prosperity, thanks to an enterprising engineer named Li Bing, who succeeded in harnessing the waterways to irrigate the countryside and helped feed the region and the country. Despite many ups and downs, Sichuan continues to live up to its reputation as “Heaven’s Granary”, producing over 10 percent of the nation’s grain and a variety of agricultural products.
As the focal point of the central government’s “Develop the West” programme, launched in the mid-1990s, Chengdu’s star has risen without pause. Billions have been invested in high-speed expressways, linking Chengdu with other important places such as Chongqing and Leshan, and soon to Shanghai, Beihai in Guangxi and Tibet.
Last year, according to the official municipal government’s website, 157 projects, backed by foreign capital and representing a contract volume of US$343 billion, were registered. And more investors are expected to come in.
Recent visits by former French president Jacques Chirac and Pakistani president Pervez Musharaff only helped underscore the importance of the area to international trade and commerce.
First timers to Chengdu will undoubtedly have two things on their mind when they arrive in this often overcast city: hot pot and pandas, and they’re right not to want to miss out on these tourist icons. Lately though, a slew of sightseeing activities has cropped up and are worth considering too. Here’s our take on how you should be spending your free day in Chengdu:
Giant Panda Breeding Research Base This is a good alternative if one cannot make the four-hour ride to the Wolong Nature Reserve. Easily reached from the city, this next-best attraction for panda lovers holds nearly 50 giant red pandas (which we were unable to see as the sign said: “We’re pregnant”), although a few can only be seen at any one time. The museum has comprehensive exhibits on panda evolution, their habits, habitats and conservation programmes and there is continuously running documentary on activities of the centre shown in a mini-theatre offering excellent air conditioning.
At the nursery, there is an opportunity to view the youngsters and even hold one (provided you don protective gear) if you can afford to pay CNY1,000 (US$131) for what seems like two seconds. When touring the place in the summer, make sure to bring a big bottle of mineral water as directions can sometimes be unclear and you may find yourself walking around in circles, not an inviting prospect in the humid weather. Admission is CNY30 (US$4), open daily from 0800-1800.
Jinsha Site Museum The brand-new attraction, occupying 30ha, is built on the original site of the Jinsha ruins. Discovered in early 2001, it consists of a five-square-kilometre area that was found to contain important relics (such as the Sun and Immortal Bird Gold ornament), as well as sacrificial areas, residences and graveyards among others. About 6,000 cultural relics in gold, bronze, jade, stone, ivory and lacquer were unearthed. In addition, there were thousands of pottery shards and about 1,000 buck teeth of wild boars and antlers.
The excavation only proved further the political, economic and cultural significance of the ancient Kingdom of Shu, which once dominated the region. Besides the Ruins Hall, another building contains the Exhibition Hall, Relics Protection Centre and theatre. Museum admission is CNY80 (US$10.51). Open daily from 0800-1800.
Grand Buddha in Leshan Visiting what is now the world’s largest Buddha is a good way to get out, escape Chengdu’s pollution and see some countryside, even if only for half a day. When you arrive at the pier of this picturesque riverside town, pay CNY50 (US$6.57) for the boat ride at the ticket booth and hop on the vessel that is due to leave next. It doesn’t take long to fill up as noisy tour groups arrive regularly, and before you know it, you’re on your way.
It was the idea of a Buddhist monk named Haitong, who thought of carving the 71-metre-high statue into a cliff face overlooking the junction of the Dadu and Min rivers, in 713 AD. This was to help protect the fishermen from the swift currents.
With true commercial savvy, the cruise operators jostle for the best places on the river to position their boats for the photo op before the statue. But that’s not all, they even provide a special section on the top deck where the angle is decidedly prime. The catch? You have to pay another CNY60 (US$8) to enter.
You can beat them at their game, however, by simply waiting till everyone has had their fill of clicking and the boat is turning back to the mainland. My companion and I simply got into position as the boat sailed in front of the Buddha, and we got our wonderful shots.
Jinli Alley and Entertainment Centre Gourmet Zone Comparisons to Hongkong’s Lan Kwai Fong will be inevitable, but what sets this new leisure magnet – located in a venerable street where the silk merchants used to do business centuries ago – apart from its more western cousin is the dedication to preserving traditional handicrafts and pasttimes. Besides the de rigueur panda souvenirs, stalls carried all manner of Chinese-style clothes and embroidered accessories, novelty items in faux jade, old-style toys like slingshots and tops (remember them?) and even back scratchers. Vanishing arts such as shadow puppetry and painting on rice grains (we still don’t know how they do it) have been brought back, entertaining amused crowds night after night. The fun begins at about 0630 and last till the wee hours, thanks to the well patronised pubs and cafés, full even on weeknights. Of course, Starbucks has already staked a prime location in this precinct.
Tea Houses The art of drinking tea dates back 3,000 years ago, and nowhere was the art more perfected than in Sichuan. Then, these places were more than just a spot to have a cuppa. They were the centre of socialisation – people had haircuts, had their ears cleaned, watched opera performances (including the “face changing” acts), played cards, recited poetry to each other and exchanged news about their neighbours.
Many still exist today, although they are fighting a losing battle against the cafés and pubs of today, specially when a new attraction like Jinli Street opens.
Hot Pot When I asked how many types of hot pot dishes there were, people laughed, as if to say: “What a question!” Indeed, there are countless varieties and permutations of Chengdu’s most famous cuisine that the wise thing to do is just enjoy whatever is placed before you (and don’t forget to have that bottle of mineral water or beer beside you).
Hot pot restaurants abound of course, and everyone has their favourites. Following the Gourmet Map, available with your hotel concierge, they can be found in places such as Yipin Tianxia, Tanxixian, Qinhua Road and Dufu, Qingyang Palace and Qintai Road, Wenshu Temple, Lijiatuo, Yushuang Road, Yulin District, North Kehua Road, Zijing Road and Tongzilin.
Happy eating!
CHENGDU HOTELS
HOLIDAY INN
WHAT’S IT LIKE? One of three hotels occupying the just sprouting Century City Complex. InterContinental and a second Holiday Inn are next.
WHERE IS IT? A hop and skip away are the new convention & exhibition centre and Causeway Bay mall.
HOW MANY ROOMS? 780 guestrooms, including Executive Club rooms.
ROOM FACILITIES: High-speed internet access, data ports, voicemail, multi-channel TV and added benefits for Club Floor guests.
DINING: Sphere for all-day dining; Golden Century is Cantonese and Sichuan; CEU Brazilian BBQ; and a deli for “Grab to Go” goodies.
BARS: Lobby Lounge on the left side of the entrance offers the ideal space for impromptu meetings; Sky Bar on the top floor.
BUSINESS FACILITIES: Business centre, located in the lobby, has several workstations. Adjacent is a travel agent that can help with tours and tickets.
LEISURE FACILITIES: Fully equipped gym with sauna, steam room and massage services.
PRICE: Nightly internet rates for a three-night stay in late August start from US$44.
CONTACT: 1 Middle Section., Tianfu Avenue, Chengdu 610041, Sichuan, China, tel 86 28 8534 8888, www.ichotels.com
KEMPINSKI
WHAT’S IT LIKE? Subdued lighting, except in the Executive Lounge, seems to be the preferred ambience. A bit hard to navigate in.
WHERE IS IT? In the south side of the city centre and five minutes from the Central Business District.
HOW MANY ROOMS? 483 guestrooms, including 45 suites and an Executive Floor with a Club Lounge with a view.
ROOM FACILITIES: A choice of queen or twin beds. Broadband internet connection; glass-topped desk with black swivel chair makes work easier.
DINING: A Paulaner Restaurant and deli, the Asian Noodle Bar, Cantonese restaurant and tea house.
BARS: Lobby Lounge dominates the high-ceilinged reception area.
BUSINESS FACILITIES: Large convention and meeting facilities, and business centre available.
LEISURE FACILITIES: Health club and indoor swimming pool, karaoke room, massage treatments.
PRICE: Nightly internet rates for a three-night stay in August start from US$111.
CONTACT: 42 Ren Min Nan Road, 4th Section, Chengdu 610041, Sichuan, China, tel 86 28 8526 9999, www.kempinski.com
SHANGRI-LA
WHAT’S IT LIKE? Newest kid on the block is a gleaming Shangri-La through and through with touches of Sichuan bamboo motifs.
WHERE IS IT? At the junction of Fu and Nan Rivers, the historic site of Swell Fun wine lane and near the lucky Hejian Pavilion.
HOW MANY ROOMS? 594 guestrooms and suites, from 42 sqm to 276 sqm. There are also 26 apartments.
ROOM FACILITIES: Riverview rooms have floor-to-ceiling windows, all have broadband internet connections and electronic safes etc.
DINING: Cafe Z exudes a Middle East feel and features nine show kitchens, a first for the city; Shang Palace of course.
BARS: The band plays nightly at the Lobby Lounge. The wine wall is a stunning piece of design.
BUSINESS FACILITIES: The city’s largest ballroom at 2,100 sqm is here. It even has facilities to permit a car to be driven in for product launches.
LEISURE FACILITIES: Shang’s signature CHI Spa will open soon with 11 treatment rooms; indoor swimming pool, sauna and outdoor tennis court.
PRICE: Opening rate from US$104 with breakfast is available until July 31.
CONTACT: 9 Binjiang Dong Road, Chengdu 610021, Sichuan, China, tel 86 28 8888 9999, www.shangri-la.com
SHERATON
WHAT’S IT LIKE? Staff are trained to respond quickly and have an usually good command of English. You feel you’re in good hands.
WHERE IS IT? The Stadium is next door, and also nearby is the Provincial Exhibition Centre and a future metro station.
HOW MANY ROOMS? 402 guestrooms, some with kitchen. The Presidential Suite is an Oriental gem.
ROOM FACILITIES: Excellent internet broadband connection and very comfortable beds. Some updating needed in the furnishings department.
DINING: Celestial Court serves the definitive ma po tofu; Nova is for Pan Asian; and Sidewalk Lounge and Deli does all-day snacks and munchies.
BARS: Fontana Bar in the lobby has cigars and cocktails that go beautifully with the nightly performances.
BUSINESS FACILITIES: Wi-Fi in public areas and meeting rooms; over 600 sqm of flexible meeting space; KA ticketing office.
LEISURE FACILITIES: Small gym looks out to the swimming pool crowned by a wide expanse of skylight; Jacuzzi and sauna and steam.
PRICE: Nightly internet rates for a three-night stay in late August start from US$115.
CONTACT: 15, Section 1, Ren Min Zhong Road, Chengdu 610015, Sichuan, China, www.sheraton.com
SOFITEL WANDA
WHAT’S IT LIKE? Grand lobby with soaring ceilings banishes any lingering notions that Chengdu is a backwater town.
WHERE IS IT? Located along the pretty Jinjiang River, it’s a short stroll to the main commercial area.
HOW MANY ROOMS? 262 guestrooms and suites blend classical European and Chinese aesthetics.
ROOM FACILITIES: Sofitel’s MyBed, broadband internet access and oversized LCD flat-screen TVs that can be pulled out for easy viewing.
DINING: Sichuan favourites and exotic offerings like turtle cooked several ways at Palace Chinese Restaurant; Japanese and international buffet.
BARS: Le Rendezvous Lounge has nightly live entertainment; Cigar Bar is for sophisticated smokes and small talk.
BUSINESS FACILITIES: Wi-Fi is avilable at Club Sofitel and public spaces; business centre is on the second floor.
LEISURE FACILITIES: Indoor swimming pool under a skylight, gym with Precor equipment, spa and sauna and KTV nightclub.
PRICE: Nightly internet rates for a three-night stay in late August start from US$150.
CONTACT: 15 Binjiang Zhong Road, Chengdu 610016, Sichuan, China, tel 86 28 6666 9999, www.sofitel.com/asia
