Pescatori
57 Charlotte Street, Fitzrovia, tel +44 (0)20 7580 3289; also at Dover Street, +44 (0)20 7493 2652; pescatori.co.uk
A short walk north along Charlotte Street from Oxford Street and you'll find Pescatori, around for more than 50 years and still going strong. The rustic interior is more reminiscent of a place you'd find on holiday on the Italian coast and return to every night. There are wood beams, rough plaster rendering and naïf paintings, and the food has that air about it as well. It's not sophisticated but it's very well executed and the ingredients – particularly the fresh fish and shellfish – ensure it succeeds.
Oysters are a big draw here, either on their own served on ice (6 for £9.95, 9 for £14.40, 12 for £18.60) or as part of the shellfish platter along with grilled lobster, scallops, Mediterranean prawns, mussels and fresh herbs (£31.50).
A starter of filleted and char-grilled sardines with balsamic vinegar (£7.30) was delicious, while sautéed squid and hand-dived scallops, slow roasted tomatoes and warm avocado (£8.95) was very tasty. For main courses the lobster and scallop handmade ravioli with a shellfish sauce (£8.85 as a starter, £14.50 for a main) was perfectly judged, as was the size of the portion. The Italian theme is complemented by Italian staff, though the head chef is in fact from Madeira (and has worked for the restaurants for more than 20 years).
Including downstairs there are 200 covers, so it's a large restaurant, but one which has plenty of space and a real sense of atmosphere in the evening. In summer the doors are open on to the terrace; it's an intimate and warm place. Throw in a good wine list of Italian whites and reds, a grappa for a digestif, and we were reeling out on to Charlotte Street to walk past dozens of more sophisticated restaurants but none, we felt, which were as welcoming as the one we had just reluctantly left.
Price Set lunch menu £20.50-22.50. Dinner three courses £30-35, four courses £35-40.
Opening hours Lunch 12-3pm Mon-Fri, dinner 6-11pm Mon-Sat.
Tom Otley
Curve Restaurant and Bar
The Marriott West India Quay, Canary Wharf, tel +44 (0)20 7093 1000; marriott.co.uk
Close to Billingsgate fish market, Curve manages to create a homely but stylish feeling in surroundings that are both grand and intimidating. Entering by tall doors, you are drawn towards the bright, busy open kitchen at the end of the curved room. On the left is a new bar, offering signature cocktails – I had a raspberry mojito – and there's a champagne oyster bar too. The new décor is unimaginative but homely, with wooden floors and high-backed comfortable leather chairs, and a floor-to-ceiling curved window running the length of the restaurant.
Executive chef Jolly, who used to work at the Marriott Goa, has plans to change the menu so diners can have fish cooked the way they like it, with the sauce they like too. The menu is described as "seasonal", although there were summer vegetables on the winter menu. A good choice of starters ranged from lobster ravioli and shellfish bisque to "grilled diver-caught Cornish scallops served on asparagus and spicy vinaigrette" (£9.50). I had the New England clam chowder with chives (£6.50), which was delicious and creamy. The water biscuits served on the side were a little redundant, as we had just been offered three different types of bread.
For my main course I chose grilled Dover sole (£24) with side dishes of spinach and "crushed" mash. The waiter offered to de-bone my fish, which he did quickly and skilfully. The special of the day was red mullet served on sweet potatoes and mushrooms, also very tasty.
For dessert I chose the platter (£16.50), which is a small taster of most of the desserts on offer: chocolate brownies, profiteroles, crème brûlée, raspberry parfait, to name a few. The oven-roasted pistachio cheesecake and the Thai crème brûlée and with mango sugar snaps were exceptional.
Price Business lunch menu (two courses, one drink) £17, dinner three courses £32-35.
Opening hours Lunch 12-2.30pm, dinner 5-10.30pm Mon-Sun.
Felicity Cousins
Bentley's
11-15 Swallow Street, Mayfair, tel +44 (0)20 7734 4756; bentleys.org
Bentley's is one of the best-known fish restaurants in London and now, as a result of Richard Corrigan (of Lindsay House) taking over, is enjoying a new lease of life. Established in 1916, it still occupies the same Victorian building off a quiet street between Piccadilly and Regent Street.
Once inside, you have a choice between the fast-moving Oyster Bar downstairs and the Grill upstairs. The basement is the Jamieson Room (60 seated, 120 for canapés) for private functions. For a quick lunch, the Oyster Bar (pictured above) is perfect, with seating at tables or the bar. For business lunches, the Grill is ideal – the interior features blue-patterned William Morris wallpaper above cream wooden panelling, and perfectly complements the Italian-gothic façade. The first floor is divided into three: the Grill Room (36 covers), Rib Room (34 covers) and the private Crustacea Room (12 covers).
Originally, the Bentleys had their own oyster beds in West Mersea near Colchester, and oysters are still a speciality (six £16.50, nine £25.50, dozen £29.95). But Bentley's doesn't just serve fish: the short meat section is perfectly judged, and the steamed Elwy Valley lamb pudding (£16.50) is fantastically rich. Starters include seared scallops wrapped in bacon with blue cheese (£14.95) and grilled tiger prawns with chickpea and olive oil (£13.95), though a simple Singapore crab and mussel soup (£6.75) is filling enough. Specials are available daily.
Desserts are as rich as the meat dishes: Valrhona chocolate pot with hazelnut and mascarpone; poire belle Hélène; brandy plums with cinnamon custard (all £7.50), and there's a comprehensive wine list for all budgets. Quite superb.
Price Oyster Bar: three courses, £30-35; main restaurant: three courses, £40.
Opening hours Oyster Bar: noon to midnight Mon-Sat, noon-10pm Sun. Main restaurant: lunch 12-3pm Mon-Sun, dinner 6-11pm Mon-Sat, 6-10pm Sun.
Tom Otley
