You can forget about dining at one of the new restaurants in Mumbai if you do not have a reservation. You will be sent back with an apology for being completely sold out. This not only holds for the weekend, but for a weekday too. The more popular ones take bookings a week in advance; some even go as far as two weeks in advance.
“People are starting to go out a lot more often and demanding a lot more variety in the city,” says Riyaaz Amlani, Managing Director, Impresario Entertainment & Hospitality. The group is known for Smoke House Deli, Prithvi Cafe, Social, Salt Water Cafe, and Tasting Room in Mumbai.
Amlani draws a parallel between the city’s craze for Bollywood and its restaurants. “Just like how a Mumbaikar would want to go to the cinema in the first week of its release and talk about it, being spotted at a new restaurant is just as hip.”
The restaurant business is looked at as a glamorous one. Having the “right” contacts (restaurant owner or manager) means never having to wait outside for a table; and being a restaurateur means possibly hobnobbing with socialites; a win-win equation for both parties.
The restaurant business is the second highest employment generator in India after the finance industry. A research conducted by Jones Lang LaSalle, an investor management firm, on Mumbai’s food service industry reported that 60 per cent of the city’s population works in this sector. The National Restaurant Association of India estimates the industry (nationwide) will grow to ₹4,08,040 crore by 2018. Breaking it down into categories: 74 per cent are from quick service restaurants (QSR) and casual dine-ins, 12 per cent from cafes, and 14 per cent from fine dining restaurants, pubs, bars, clubs and lounges.
There aren’t any real figures to show which cities contribute most to the industry, but it’s an easy guess that Mumbai, Bengaluru and Delhi are the major players.
Bengaluru is driven by its pub culture and the UB City is responsible for this; for Delhi it’s about who can spend more; and Mumbai, though attracted to the glamour of it, has a large migrant population looking to unwind at such outlets. From expensive to budget, there is an abundance of eateries in the city. Both have their share of crowds, thus catering to various strata of the society.
“There isn’t much comparison between fine dining and casual dining,” says Zorawar Kalra, Managing Director, Massive Restaurants (Masala Library and Pa Pa Ya). “Both are extremely unique and have their respective audiences. Having said that, there are definitely times where audiences overlap between these concepts, like special occasions or trying out a new fine dine place as a family, spending much more on the experience than they normally would to mark an iconic moment in their lives.”
Besides visiting the cinema, coffee shops, restaurants, bars (and maybe theatre for a handful), there isn’t much to do in Mumbai for recreation. One could even attribute social media, and badges awarded by restaurant reviewing sites for generating this enthusiasm.
While Amlani suggests that Mumbai is more receptive to trying something new in comparison to other cities, Kalra is of the opinion that Indians, as a whole, are selective and not easy to please. He adds, “Keeping with the cosmopolitan vibes prevalent in cities, the working professional will dine out at least once a day — it could be at a local vada pav station or at a fine dining restaurant. This is a combination hard to find in the rest of the country, thereby making Mumbai a preferred destination for many restauranteurs and chefs.”
In spite of this, the shelf life for new openings is short. Some last; others close permanently within the first two years. When flipping through an old lifestyle magazine from 2015, I realised that three of the ten new restaurants listed have shut down. From the seven survivors, rumours say two more are due to pull down shutters permanently.
Yet, Mumbai sees new openings every few months. Their survival, however, depends on how much research has gone into the plan before opening the restaurant. Kalra says, “The people who prepare and serve the food must be trained and developed as a team before you open doors.” While this is imperative, realising your USP is equally important. “Those that don’t survive are simply replicas of established concepts, with little or, in some cases, no clue about what their audience is looking for. Sadly, for many, operating a food establishment is just about being glamorous. They invest a considerable amount of time and finances into this when they’re unaware of the real trial and tribulations that actually go behind establishing a restaurant with a soul.”
The industry isn’t a lucrative one for many. Launching anything in Mumbai is indirectly subject to real estate affordability. Unless it is calculated wisely, chances of survival are slim. It is one of the more expensive cities to live in, in terms of property prices and rentals. A 900 sqm space will ask for ₹80,000 to a lakh per month in the suburbs.
Bandra, “the queen of suburbs” took the allure from South Mumbai that once used to be the trending food and beverage (F&B) zone until the millennium. Soaring real estate prices have forced builders to now look towards the inner suburbs for more affordable spaces.
“Rent is the second highest cost after direct input (investment) cost,” says Amlani. People pay anywhere between 15 and 18 per cent as rent. Unfortunately that’s not sustainable. Rents should be south of 12 per cent if a restaurateur wants to make money. However, those not equipped with the economics of how it works, often make less than the landlord!” Echoing this, Kalra admits that they have had to let go of some great locations because the rentals “just didn’t make business sense.”
While Bandra is the place to launch your establishment, the smaller players are moving towards inner suburbs — Andheri, Versova, and Goregaon — where rentals aren’t as steep. And as with any residential and commercial zone, once the neighbourhood starts swelling, restaurants see an opportunity to feed locals.
The second factor is licences. Mumbai is possibly one of the hardest cities to open a restaurant. One needs 33 licences just for the restaurant, and an additional nine to serve liquor. These are in addition to NOCs (No Objection Certificates) from various local and government bodies. It isn’t any different in the other cities either. The common complaint amongst all restaurateurs is the daunting process of running pillar to post for paperwork. If simplified, Mumbai would see a lot many brave entrepreneurs out on the field.
It could help the economy too as restaurants are the highest providers of direct taxation in India, paying Value Added Tax (12.5 per cent — varies as per food and beverage category), service tax (14 per cent and payable on 40 per cent of the total bill), and excise duty (depends on production).
Mumbai’s pace continues to pick up well after the sun sets. New concepts since the eating-out trend came about five to seven years ago have revolutionised the way a Mumbaikar (colloquial term for Mumbai’s resident) dines. The pressure isn’t to keep up with international standards; it is the ability to please the adventurous diner who is just looking for a good time to unwind. The classics and old-time favourites know they are here to stay. However, it is the newbies who struggle with experimentation to lure in and retain the crowds. Until then, keep them coming.
CLASSICS
Leopold Café
The restaurant has been in existence since 1871. Their multi-cuisine menu offers Indian, Chinese and Italian, with sandwiches, burgers, and eggs. Walk by the cafe in the bustling Colaba Market at any time during the day and you will see pitchers and beer dispensers on almost every table.
Availability: First come, first served.
Must-try: Chilli Chicken
- Open daily 7:30am to 1am; Colaba Causeway; tel: +91 22 22828185; leopoldcafe.com
Britannia
Opened in 1923 by a Parsi (Zoroastrian from Iran) family, it has been known for traditional Parsi food ever since. Son of the founder, now 92-years-old, still waits on tables while his son (grandson of founder) mans the cash counter. While the later isn’t much of a conversationalist, his father charms you with stories, coaxing you to eat more than you can stomach.
Availability: First come, first served.
Must-try: Berry Pulao
- Open daily 11:30am to 4pm; Ballard Estate, Opposite New Custom House; tel: +91 22 22615264; facebook.com/pages/Britannia-and-Co
Trishna
Established 40 years ago as Matrebhoomi Lunch Home, after renovation in 1991 it was renamed to Trishna. It is a popular family restaurant visited by families from all over the city for its South Indian seafood preparations. They have now opened a branch in Andheri, a Mumbai suburb.
Availability: Dinner table for four will be available if booked on the same day.
Must-try: Chettinad Crab
- Open daily noon to 3pm and 6:30pm to 12:15am; Sai Baba Marg, Kala Ghoda, Fort; tel: +91 22 22614991; trishna.co.in
NEW CONCEPTS
Pa Pa Ya
Opened in September 2015, it is a “complete reinvention of Asian cuisine”. The quirky interiors and gastronomic experience please the eyes as well with edible baskets, foam mousse, and leaf-wrapped appetisers.
Availability: Try your luck for a dinner table at least ten days in advance. It’s a struggle to get them on the phone as it is.
Must-try: Sushi Burger
- Open daily noon to 3pm and 7pm to 11pm; Palladium Mall, Lower Parel; tel: +91 8828031900; gopapaya.co.in
Fatty Bao
In July 2015, Mumbai saw a Bengaluru’s gastro pub open a branch in the heart of Bandra’s very crowded Linking Road. The concept is modelled on fun with panda-crowned cutlery and geisha-shaped salt shakers. The cuisine is a variety of Asian dishes served as they should be. Popping in just for cocktails is not a bad idea either.
Availability: For weekends book four days and for weekdays a day in advance.
Must-try: Teriyaki Glazed Chicken Bao
- Open daily noon to 3:30pm and 7pm to 1am; Summerville, Linking Road, Bandra west; tel: +91 22 33716006; facebook.com/thefattybaomum
Bombay Canteen
In February 2015, the city was presented with a retro-styled bar and kitchen that has a contemporary Indian menu. On weekends, it turns into a lively bar. Don’t leave without trying the desserts that are a perfect mashup of Indian and western dishes.
Availability: Phone a week in advance for a dinner table. They encourage walk-ins if you’re willing to wait by the bar for a bit (30- to 45-minutes).
Must-try: Masala Chai Popsicles
- Open daily noon to 1am; Kamala Mills, Lower Parel; tel: +91 49666666; thebombaycanteen.com
HOTEL RESTAURANTS
Peshawri
The tables are absent of cutlery because Indian food is to be eaten by hand. The regal experience begins with aprons hung around you before the meal and finger bowls after.
Availability: It’s luck – book a day in advance, but to be safe, try four days advance booking.
Must-try: Black Dal
- Open daily 12:30am to 2:45pm and 7pm to 11:45pm; ITC Maratha, Sahar, Andheri East; tel: +91 28303030; itchotels.in
Wasabi by Morimoto
The fine-dining Japanese restaurant is at the mezzanine level of Mumbai’s iconic Taj Mahal Palace Hotel. The seafood and wasabi are flown from Japan to remain true to the ethnic flavours.
Availability: Easy. Phone on the day you want to visit.
Must-try: Wasabi Creme Brûlée
- Open daily 12:30am to 2:45pm and 7pm to 11:45pm; Taj Mahal Palace Hotel, Colaba; tel: +91 22 66653366 Extension: 3202; tajhotels.com
Yuuka
Modern Japanese cuisine is served against a backdrop of Mumbai’s skyline viewed from the 37th floor. Sushi, tiramisu, and even the rice is given a twist to remember.
Availability: You’ll get a dinner table even if you phone that evening.
Must-try: Avacado Tartare
- Open daily noon to 3pm and 7pm to midnight; St Regis, Lower Parel; tel: +91 61628422; stregismumbai.com
STAY
JW Marriott Mumbai Sahar
The third Marriott property in the city is located just 1km from Mumbai’s international airport. JW Marriott Mumbai Sahar has 11 event rooms with a total capacity of 1392 sqm. Each of the meeting rooms are equipped with a projector, clip boards, television, dictaphone, and LCD panels. Their meeting services app makes it easier for corporate planners to help themselves with particulars such as AC temperature, more chairs, coffee request without the hassle of looking for a hotel employee. All 585 rooms and suites are equipped with a work desk, tea/coffee maker and free internet. Romano the Italian restaurant serves up dishes that are very close to rustic Italian tastes. JW Cafe, JW Lounge, and JW Baking Company are the other eateries on the property. marriott.com
The Leela
A five-minute drive from the international airport is The Leela Mumbai. Their boardrooms of 59 sqm, 60 sqm, 86 sqm, and 47 sqm have data ports and ISDN lines for video conferencing, LCD projector, and telephone lines for a well-equipped meeting space. The 1,090 sqm grand ballroom is equipped with the same technology and can host 700 delegates. Of the nine room and suite categories, the junior Presidential suites and Royal Club rooms have two-hours free access to their meeting rooms, in addition to full access to the Club Lounge that can double as a casual, impromptu meeting space. Make reservations at Le Cirque Signature for an evening of French-Italian specialties for which the brand is known globally. The other restaurants are Citrus, Jamvar, The Great Wall, Six Degrees and The Lobby Lounge. theleela.com
The Lalit
The international airport is within walking distance from The Lalit — about 5- to 7-minutes. The business centre is accessible round the clock. Apart from the Majestic ballroom and the outdoor Lalit Plaza, the property has a boardroom for 12 people; two meeting rooms for 15 people and one for eight people; Regal, Royal rooms and the forum for bigger conferences for 30 people. Rooms and suites are equipped with a 42-inch LCD television, high speed internet access, tea/coffee maker, and a good sized work desk. Baluchi, the pan-Indian restaurant serves dishes from the very interiors of the country’s regions. Beluga, Trendz, Kitty Su, The Pastry Shop are other options in addition to a 24×7 restaurant. thelalit.com
