“Paris of the Americas” was a moniker worn with pride: ornate buildings, broad boulevards, stylish residents. These days, the grandeur of Buenos Aires is gently faded but its charm remains undiluted. Though mainstream touristy, it quickly seduces. I’ve yet to hear someone speak ill of Argentina’s capital.

Buenos Aires

I people-watch from trendy alfresco cafés near downtown’s landmark Obelisk, drink Argentinian wine in the artsy-craftsy Caminito precinct, sip maté tea – the national drink, share soccer passions at a giant stadium, shop on Florida Street (one of the world’s great retail thoroughfares, where Argentinian leather is showcased), watch tango performances in magnificent theatres and – perhaps predictably – sign up for tango lessons.

Buenos Aires

And I eat beef. Plenty of beef. Argentinians eat more beef per capita than people anywhere else. Two tips for visitors: don’t expect highlighted vegetarian options or an early meal; restaurants serve dinner even at 2am.

Business visitors seldom see other parts of this country. Those few venturing further away mostly enjoy Patagonia’s snowy beauty and Ushuaia, from where many Antarctic voyages depart. I recall Mike Kuhl, CEO of Australia-based Inca Tours, saying: “Argentina is much more than Buenos Aires – but people love the city and usually see little else of the country.”

So, I’m determined to sample the hinterland. I join a Sunday day-trip to a visitor-welcoming ranch in Buenos Aires province, adjoining the city. I’ve made enquiries and Estancia Santa Susana, an estate some 70km from downtown, is widely recommended.

The homestead on this 1,200ha ranch is now a museum illustrating late-1800s rural life. Rooms are kept as they were then.

Buen

Other exhibits include some stunning samples of clothes worn, products bought and implements used nearly 200 years ago. One old building has become a little chapel.

A horse-cart trip along farm trails whets my appetite. I saddle up and, with a gaucho (cowboy), ride across the ranch.

Buenos Aires

Lunch is parrillada-style – an Argentinian barbecue. It’s mostly beef, a carnivore’s delight: enormous steaks, other beef cuts, empanadas (meat-filled pastries), various types of sausages including beef, pork and morcilla (blood sausage), plus barbecued chicken and fish. It’s washed down with Argentinian wine and beer. Dessert includes local favourites: milk-based dulce de leche and flour-based churros.

A song-and-dance show features romantic folk songs and, inevitably, a tango performance.

I’m not on the far-flung pampas but at least it’s a taste – and I’m back at the Four Seasons by sunset. While strolling later, I find the aromas irresistible. Dinner proves memorable – but I beef later about another vast repast.

GETTING THERE

Many airlines serve Buenos Aires. From Asia, the most popular routes are through Canada or the US. Almost all major hotel chains are present – plus many high-grade independents. Estancia Santa Susana (tel + 54 2322 525016; www.esantasusana.com.ar); any concierge can arrange private drivers who can also guide a tour or group tours.