Features

Brazil: Time out in Buzios

28 Mar 2013 by BusinessTraveller

Jenny Southan follows in the footsteps of Brigitte Bardot by heading out of Rio to the sun-kissed resort of Buzios.

"You know who put Buzios on the map, don’t you?” says rock publicist Phil Symes, over a poolside glass of champagne at his Beverly Hills-style pad in Rio de Janeiro. “It was Brigitte Bardot. She went there in the sixties to escape the paparazzi that were hounding her in Rio, and fell in love with it.” Almost 50 years on, people are still talking about her exploits, and many more celebs have visited since.

The next morning, when I arrive in the sparkling Brazilian resort town a 2.5-hour drive east of Rio, I can see why the blonde bombshell felt so passionate about the place. The sentiment was obviously reciprocated by the locals, too, as a little way along the waterfront – appropriately named Orla Bardot – is a life-size bronze statue of Brigitte sitting on a suitcase. Her limbs have been rubbed gold from so many people posing on her for photos.

A short way up the cobbled street is the pearl-coloured Casas Brancas boutique hotel (casasbrancas.com.br). Each of its 32 rooms and suites feature light, beach-chic décor and free wifi, and my sea-facing room has a private terrace with loungers. Stepping out into the warmth, I see how the curve of the peninsula has formed a turquoise bay – nearer the shore are dozens of speedboats, while further out is a colossal cruise liner. At night, it sparkles as if encrusted with diamonds.

It was only 125 years ago that slavery was abolished in this part of the world, and some of the luckier ones who were freed by Portuguese colonialists in the late 1800s ended up here, in Buzios, forming a humble fishing community. Before, the South Atlantic coast’s Costa do Sol was the domain of pirates, smugglers and whale hunters, but nowadays the economy relies on tourism and watersport events, such as the RS:X World Windsurfing Championships that took place last month (the men’s event happened to be won by Britain’s Nick Dempsey).

Of the 30 or so coves in Buzios, there are two main surfing beaches – one of the longest is 2km Geriba, where the tournaments take place, while Brava is more exclusive, and is also known as the Veuve Clicquot beach because of its golden yellow, champagne-branded umbrellas. If you’re seeking the shade of one of these, you can recline on white double beds and order catch-of-the-day from the nearby Rocka beach lounge, which is also owned by the Casas Brancas hotel. Alternatively, buzzy Joao Fernandes is ideal for swimming and, if you fancy getting your kit off, a hike over the hill will take you to nudist beach Olho do Boi (“Eye of the Bull”).

The best way to get around is on foot, by water taxi or Bugre buggy – mini open jeeps that can easily be hired from local rental agencies. I am fortunate enough to have been put in touch with Susan Marshall, owner of the Cachoeira Inn (a gorgeous four-room “tropical Asian paradise”, cachoeirainnbuzios.com), who is keen to show me around. Originally from the US, she picks me up from the hotel wearing a backwards-facing San Diego baseball cap and driving her own little purple rattletrap. “Hey Jen, you ready to hit the beach?” she shouts, with a grin.

After bumping our way down the cobbled roads to Praia dos Ossos (Bones beach), which is lined with fire-blossomed flamboya trees, Susan haggles good-humouredly with a local boatman to take us to pretty Azeda, around the bay. The charming littoral is home to a once-glorious crumbling mansion with blue shutters and a tiled roof nestled among giant cacti.

“They only grow 1cm a year,” Susan tells me, “and only in Buzios, so they’re protected. If you want to build, you can’t cut them down or you will get fined big time.” Just around the corner sits Praia Azedinha – we buy caipirinha cocktails of lime, sugar, ice and cachaça rum from a bar made out of a hand-painted boat, and find a spot on the sand to spread out our sarongs (the locals never use towels).

When hunger sets in, we jump back into a water taxi and whizz over to Praia da Tartaruga (Turtle beach) for a bite to eat at the eponymously named restaurant with an outdoor deck and tasty Brazilian fare – dishes of aipim frito (fried yucca), moqueca stew of banana and palm hearts, coconut rice and bottles of Bohemia beer go down very nicely. In town, the main street of Rua das Pedras is crammed with lively restaurants and bars – prices are on a par with London here, but the quality is good. My favourites are Sollar for mozzarella, Patio Havana for samba, Chez Michou for crêpes and Bar do Zé for seafood.

After a couple of days, I understand why so many people have been charmed by Buzios – so when your work in Rio is done, follow Brigitte’s lead and make the great escape.

visitebuzios.com

Loading comments...

Search Flight

See a whole year of Reward Seat Availability on one page at SeatSpy.com

Business Traveller March 2024 edition
Business Traveller March 2024 edition
Be up-to-date
Magazine Subscription
To see our latest subscription offers for Business Traveller editions worldwide, click on the Subscribe & Save link below
Polls