Features

Bhaji on the beach

29 Sep 2014 by GrahamSmith

Jenny Southan kicks back Indian-style on the colourful coast of Kerala


Beyond the reaches of India’s throbbing mega-cities, life along the southerly shores of Kerala is awash with charming human encounters.

Busloads of brightly-clad locals arrive at the beaches for day trips, laughing as they frolic in the surf. As the sun sets orange behind the rustling palms and the fruit bats swoop slowly in to roost, curries are cooked in the open boots of parked vehicles, the air filling with the smell of exotic spices. 

A few minutes from the luxurious Leela Kovalam hotel (theleela.com) – tucked away in its very own tropical oasis with rooms looking out to sea – you can make your way through the local village to Samudra beach and its landmark pink mosque. Even though the hotel offers direct access to a private piece of sand for guests, I enjoy taking the scenic route.

Early mornings are the best, before the heat of the day sets in – strolling along the paths, I spy a woman washing her long dark hair by a stone well. In a forest glade, men are harvesting coconuts – one shimmies up the trunks to cut them down, while the others sheer the green husks off and stack them up in piles.

I have already come to know some of the local children, who, on seeing me, come running, smiling and shrieking as they stretch out their hands for “school pens and chocolate”. I come prepared, doling out biros and caramels as they crowd around. We learn each other’s names and wave goodbye until next time.

It’s a humble existence, but not as desperate as in other parts of India – historically, the state of Kerala has been one of the better off, with the highest literacy rate (about 94 per cent), better than average life expectancy and an annual per capita income of US$1,473 (in Uttar Pradesh, the poorest state, it is just US$551).

It could be far richer if the estimated US$22 billion hoard of jewels and gold discovered three years ago in the majestic Sree Padmanabhaswamy temple, in the capital of Trivandrum, was sold. However, talk of “the curse of the cobra” and controversy about who owns the treasure means it continues to gather dust.

On Lighthouse beach, the long promenade of which is lined with restaurants, tailor shops and boutiques, dozens of fishermen work together to haul in a giant net that stretches from the shore into the sea. As the group heaves, two or three are assigned to stand in the water, slapping the surface to drive the fish to the back. It’s a method they have no doubt used for centuries, but these days the catch is pathetically small, a probable consequence of illegal trawling.

The best way to contribute to the local economy, I always think, is to spend money. Waves German Bakery is a lovely hangout with an upstairs terrace facing the sea and a varied all-day menu.

Further down, Beatles Bar is a raised tikki-style set-up playing retro tunes. You won’t find alcohol on the menu here – Kerala has a significant Muslim population (almost a third), so drinking tends to be done discreetly – but ask and someone will nip off to get you a rum and Coke or a beer, bringing it back in a china mug with the bottle wrapped in newspaper.

Ordering booze is no problem in top-end hotels – I spend a glorious day sipping pina coladas by the pool at the Vivanta by Taj (vivantabytaj.com), and a memorable evening at the al fresco Sky Bar at the Leela, followed by a lavish buffet feast.

That said, times are changing. Laws are being introduced to turn Kerala into a dry state within ten years to combat its endemic drink problem – on average, citizens consume 8.3 litres of pure liquor per year (the national average is four litres). The downside of prohibition will be that it will not only cost the government in excess of US$1 billion in lost taxes annually, but discourage Western tourists.

Whatever happens, don’t let this put you off. Treat Kerala as a detox retreat, and enjoy what the region is renowned for – Ayurvedic massages and houseboat trips along the waterways.

Make time, too, for a day trip to Varkala, a clifftop hippy enclave looking down on golden beaches perfect for surfing. Here you can follow a cliff path lined with shops and quirky cafés advertising yoga lessons, cooking classes and meditation courses. In Kerala, there are plenty of ways to find yourself.

keralatourism.org


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