Michelle Mannion finds the cobblestones and canals of the medieval city of Bruges offer a peaceful break from business in Brussels
Until two years ago, the delights of Bruges may have been flying below the radar for a lot of people. But when it was chosen as the unlikely hideout of two hit men in In Bruges – an award-winning British film starring Ralph Fiennes and Colin Farrell – the sedate Belgian city suddenly found itself in the international spotlight.
While Ray, the character played by Farrell, is less than enamoured with the place, and the surreal world portrayed by the black comedy couldn’t be further removed from the real Bruges, the film is spot-on at depicting its historical charm. And like Ray’s partner in crime, Ken (Brendan Gleeson), whose passion for medieval buildings acts as an interesting counterpoint to his career as a gun-toting assassin, visitors will be enchanted by this UNESCO World Heritage site.
Only an hour by train from Brussels, Bruges makes for a peaceful break after a business trip to the EU capital. In many ways, it’s a mini version of the larger city’s Old Town, with the same narrow cobblestone roads lined with lace shops and sweet-smelling chocolate stores. Its main square, the Markt, is a keen rival to Brussels’ Grand Place, bordered by colourful gabled buildings, generic eateries and the imposing, 83-metre-high Belfry (don’t watch the bloody denouement of the film before you go, or you won’t look at it in the same way).
But unlike in the bigger city, your pace will slow in Bruges. People amble rather than stride, and there’s no rush to get from A to B – a good job, as the only signposts you’ll find along its maze of back streets are for the city’s hotels rather than its numerous tourist attractions.
Other than on foot, there are a range of ways to go exploring. At the Markt, minibuses wait to whisk tourists off on audio tours – an informative option popular with the flocks of older visitors who come to the city for long weekends – while horses and carriages canter across the cobblestones waiting for a pick-up. But one of the best ways to discover Bruges is via its canals. It has for good reason been dubbed the “Venice of the North”, but it’s Amsterdam that the Flemish city is more reminiscent of.
Collect a map from your hotel and it should have the pick-up points marked for the long barges that traverse the city’s tranquil waterways. As well as the breeze in your hair, you’ll get a great view of the pretty townhouses that line the canals, along with an impressive commentary on the historical statues and landmark buildings dotted around. These include the stock exchange, which was first founded in Bruges, back when it was a major European financial hub.
There are plenty of hotels here, many of which are small and privately run. The Crowne Plaza, one of the higher-end chain offerings, is well placed on Burg Square, where you can find buildings such as the Basilica of the Holy Blood (a phial kept here is purported to hold a few drops of the blood of Christ – once a year it is paraded around the city). But until recently there were no five-star properties – a situation rectified when the Kempinski Hotel Dukes’ Palace opened in May last year.
Minutes from the main square, the property was originally built in the 15th century and was home to the dukes of Burgundy. It has now been reborn as a modern luxury hotel that has held on to many of its historical features – six of the suites are listed – and is incredibly cosy and welcoming despite the iron entrance gates and imposing turrets.
The hotel has a spa, fine-dining restaurant, original chapel complete with beautiful stained glass windows, and, in the well-groomed gardens, a rather incongruous collection of modern art – when I visited, the centrepiece was a huge red plastic poodle by Belgian artist William Sweetlove (it’s as cutting edge as you will get in this most traditional of cities).
Carine Suenens, the Kempinski’s director of sales and marketing, describes visiting Bruges as “like walking through a postcard”. For her, the best way to see it is by horse and carriage. “You get a great overview of the city, and you feel a little like you’re in the Middle Ages,” she says.
If you do climb aboard, make sure you get your steed to drop you off at Choco Story (choco-story.be), a chocolate museum located a few minutes from the Burg. Here you will learn the ancient history of one of Belgium’s most famous exports, as well as see chocolate-makers at work and view some of the incredibly intricate models on display made entirely of the sweet stuff – when I was there, I saw a beaming, life-size Barack Obama.
Suenens says the city is a great place to visit whatever the season, but one of the best times to go is from late November to the beginning of January, when the main square hosts a Christmas market. An open-air ice rink is set up, colourful lights are strewn around and stalls sell gluhwein (mulled wine), sweets and decorations. At the same time, Station Square hosts a Snow and Ice Sculpture Festival, with 300,000kg of ice and 400 tonnes of snow shipped in to create a glacial wonderland. Just watch out for the hit men.
Kempinski Hotel Dukes’ Palace’s Winter Wonderland package for two people includes tickets for the Snow and Ice Sculpture Festival, two nights in a Superior room, and breakfast. The package starts from €699 and is valid for stays from November 21 to January 11, subject to availability. Kempinski Hotel Dukes’ Palace,? Prinsenhof 8; ?tel +32 5044 7888; kempinski-bruges.com
Eurostar operates up to ten daily services from London St Pancras International to Brussels, taking about two hours. Connecting trains to Bruges depart every 30 minutes with a journey time of about an hour. All Eurostar tickets to Brussels are valid to and from any Belgian station at no extra cost. Tel +44 (0)870 518 6186; eurostar.com
