Features

Restaurants: Beijing bites

27 Feb 2014 by GrahamSmith
A new wave of upmarket restaurants and buzzing bars are out to prove there’s more to the Chinese capital than Peking duck. Mark Graham tries ten of the best

Brian McKenna @ The Courtyard

Burly Brian McKenna is one of the biggest noises on the Beijing dining scene, but the chef’s imposing physical size belies his delicate touch in the kitchen, as he prepares dishes known for their sensitive pairing of ingredients and flavours. The Irishman’s latest venture has revitalised a restaurant that formerly had a prime location but a so-so culinary reputation. The Courtyard now has a classy menu to match its exquisite setting overlooking the Forbidden City. If you’re not adventurous enough for McKenna’s molecular creations, other options include steak and chips.
  • THE NEIGHBOURHOOD The best postcode in the city, or at least it was for 500 years, when the Ming and Qing emperors lived in the Forbidden City.
  • THE CROWD Rich. It’s aimed squarely at Beijing’s movers and shakers.
  • MUST TRY Tempura of crab with lemongrass bubbles; pan-roasted salmon with ginger scented lentils and grilled foie gras; and the chocolate dessert in the shape of a terracotta warrior.
  • AVERAGE COST PER HEAD ¥700/£70
  • CONTACT 95 Donghuamen Avenue, East Gate of the Forbidden City; tel +86 10 6526 8883; bmktc.com

The Big Smoke

A homely and welcoming spot that’s equal parts pub and rib joint, the Big Smoke authentically recreates North American comfort fare at decent prices. Its location is what might politely be described as unprepossessing, being down a scruffy back alley lined with hole-in-the-wall bars. The exposed-brick interiors are somewhat classier. The business model for ale supplier Capital Brewing Company, run by pals Kristian Li and Alex Acker, is unusual – they operate inside the Big Smoke, which is also their main client. Their beers include Workers Pale Ale, with its raised-fist revolutionary logo.
  • THE NEIGHBOURHOOD Scruffy and chaotic but becoming increasingly gentrified with a cluster of decent restaurants and bars.
  • THE CROWD A mixture of expats craving the food of home, Beijingers who have lived overseas, and curious locals.
  • MUST-TRY The slow-cooked ribs and lamb, and the burgers – all washed down with Workers Pale Ale.
  • AVERAGE COST PER HEAD ¥200/£20
  • CONTACT Lee World Building, 57 Xingfucun Zhonglu, Chaoyang District; tel +86 10 6416 5195

Janes and Hooch

Arguably Beijing’s classiest cocktail bar, Janes and Hooch offers a sassy alternative to hotel lounges. The owners went to extremes to ensure it had the verisimilitude of a 1920s Chicago speakeasy by locating it in a dark backstreet with a difficult-to-discern entrance. Al Capone and his fellow bootleggers would have felt right at home in this late-night lounge, with its dark lighting, tuxedoed waiting staff and carefully selected mood music. Order a bottle of liquor, ice and mixers, and trade stories – or toast the success of a deal – until the wee small hours.
  • THE NEIGHBOURHOOD A warren of backstreets, so make sure you have detailed directions written down in Chinese for the taxi driver. The bar is hidden among a cluster of restaurants and bars on the south side of the Sanlitun nightlife zone.
  • THE CROWD Sanlitun’s well-heeled, late-night bar-hopping set.
  • MUST-TRY Earl Grey gin fizz and?a Fernet and Coke, a bitter pre-Prohibition Argentinean tipple.
  • AVERAGE COST PER HEAD ¥200 /£20
  • CONTACT Gong Ti Bei Lu, Courtyard 4, Sanlitun, Chaoyang District; tel +86 10 6503 2757; janeshooch.com

Jing Yaa Tang

The latest contender for the coveted “best Peking duck in town” title is this fabulous newly opened restaurant located in the basement of the Opposite House hotel. It competes for the same discerning customers as the three existing prime Peking duck restaurants, the nearby Duck de Chine, Made in China in the Grand Hyatt, and 19492 Jin Bao Jie. All four use ovens fired by the local fruit tree wood that gives the bird its distinctive taste and is never quite replicated in other parts of China, and these restaurants also offer a range of the nation’s greatest hits on the menu.
  • THE NEIGHBOURHOOD Its immediate neighbour is Sureno, the Opposite House’s prime Western restaurant; upstairs is the achingly trendy Mesh bar. The property is located in lively Sanlitun.
  • THE CROWD The hotel’s outlets generally attract creative types such as models, designers and artists.
  • MUST-TRY The duck, and the steamed scallops on a bed of beancurd.
  • AVERAGE COST PER HEAD ¥300/£30
  • CONTACT Building 1, Taikoo Li Sanlitun North, 11 Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang District; tel +86 10 6417 6688; theoppositehouse.com

Opera Bombana

The latest, and grandest, upscale western restaurant in the city, this is a new venture from Hong Kong-based Michelin-starred Italian chef Umberto Bombana. It’s a big, splashy place that more than lives up to the pre-opening hype. The chef’s eateries in Hong Kong and Shanghai are adored by lovers of authentic Italian food, and with Opera Bombana he has raised the bar to new heights.
  • THE NEIGHBOURHOOD The restaurant is located in the Parkview Green shopping mall. It’s worth a wander around the mall itself, which has a cool collection of art including contemporary Chinese works and Salvador Dali sculptures.
  • THE CROWD Expect to see executives, diplomats, gourmands, couples on special-occasion dates, and nouveau riche Chinese.
  • MUST-TRY Speciality dishes include tagliatelle with sea urchin, seared tuna and steaks – all at prices that reflect the opulent surroundings.
  • AVERAGE COST PER HEAD ¥600/£60
  • CONTACT LG2-21 Parkview Green Fang Cao Di, 9 Dongdaqiao Road, Chaoyang District; tel +86 10 5690 7177; operabombana.com

Pinotage

Young chef Amber Deetlefs cut her culinary teeth at the original branch of this South African restaurant in suburban Beijing before deciding to open a downtown branch to the south of the Sanlitun nightlife zone. So keen was she to improve her skills that she also trained in the UK with Gordon Ramsay. The menu is big on meat and tailored towards the Chinese preference for sharing dishes, making it a perfect option for entertaining clients for lunch or dinner.
  • THE NEIGHBOURHOOD The wrong side of the Sanlitun tracks – to the south – but, nevertheless, it’s only a two-minute stroll away from the most buzzy part of the city.
  • THE CROWD Mostly business types, foodies keen to sample the cuisine?of South Africa, and curious Chinese who appreciate the?sharing-style menu.
  • MUST-TRY The steaks and South African dishes such as biltong carpaccio – basically beef jerky given the gourmet treatment – and chicken with apricots.
  • AVERAGE COST PER HEAD ¥300/£30
  • CONTACT Building 2, 2-105, First Floor Sanlitun SOHO, 8 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang District; tel +86 10 5785 3538; pinotage.me
S.T.A.Y. Three-star Michelin chef Yannick Alléno operates this French fine-dining restaurant in the Shangri-La Beijing. This is among the furthest flung of his 14 eateries and Alléno visits it regularly to ensure the food meets his impeccably high standards. “I think people in Beijing understand what we are trying to do and appreciate that we’re introducing food they may not have tried before,” he says. “I was surprised to find good vegetables and fish – and the caviar is exceptional.”
  • THE NEIGHBOURHOOD Rather a long way out in the dull suburbs of Beijing, but worth the trek.
  • THE CROWD People out to impress, particularly businessmen splashing the cash.
  • MUST-TRY The menu changes regularly and includes standouts such as mussel ravioli with saffron, steamed codfish with seaweed butter and pan-seared wagyu beef.
  • AVERAGE COST PER HEAD ¥600/£60
  • CONTACT 29 Zizhuyuan Road, Haidian District; tel +86 10 6841 2211; shangri-la.com

Temple Restaurant Beijing

Temple encapsulates the essence of Beijing – an ultra-modern place in a deeply historic setting. Located in a compound where monks once produced Tibetan Buddhist texts for Ming emperors 500 years ago, it has become a must-visit spot for lovers of fine food and impeccable service. Belgian proprietor Ignace Lecleir took a gamble in opening an upscale restaurant in a hard-to-find alleyway close to the Forbidden City, but it has paid off, with local gourmands enchanted by the food and unusual location. It’s the place to go to see the revitalised Beijing.
  • THE NEIGHBOURHOOD Down a tricky-to-find, rough and ready hutong.
  • THE CROWD Sophisticated local foodies and curious tourists.
  • MUST-TRY The eight-course degustation menu, or à la carte specials such as olive oil poached cod with a black truffle crust.
  • AVERAGE COST PER HEAD ¥600/£60
  • CONTACT 23 Songzhusi, Shatan Beijie, Dongcheng District; tel +86 10 8400 2232; temple-restaurant.com

Transit

Usually found in fairly basic establishments in Beijing, Sichuan cuisine is taken to a new level at this sleek mall restaurant. The place has a quirky, Philippe Starck feel to it – there is a pre-dinner lounge with sofas, then guests are led through to the purple-themed main room, passing a giraffe sculpture along the way. Heat is a fundamental component of Sichuan food, especially its fiery chillies, so be prepared for the burn.
  • THE NEIGHBOURHOOD Swire Properties rebranded the mall as Taikoo Li, hoping to attract more custom, but it’s still a bit on the bland side.
  • THE CROWD A mix of trendy locals and expats ready and willing to feel the heat.
  • MUST-TRY The enticing takes on Sichuan dishes such as mao pao dao fu (beancurd) and beef in Sichuan peppers. Also try the sea bass, spicy chicken summer roll and red-cooked pork.
  • AVERAGE COST PER HEAD ¥500/£50
  • CONTACT N4-36, Taikoo Li North, 11 Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang District; tel +86 10 6417 9090

Xian

A moodily lit basement venue with alcoves galore – there are various bars, a live music zone and even a pool table – Xian is perfect for quietly winding down with a cocktail. It’s located in East, a funky business hotel on the fringes of the 798 art district. The food is basic – think pizzas, chicken wings and the like – with more detailed attention given to the extensive drinks list, which features vintage whiskies from Auchentoshan, Glenfarclas, Arran, Jura and Talisker.
  • THE NEIGHBOURHOOD Xian is near all the art zones of Beijing, including 798, a series of Bauhaus-designed buildings now serving as galleries and boutiques.
  • THE CROWD Travelling corporate types and creatively minded locals – patrons include rebel artist Ai Wei Wei, whose studio is close by.
  • MUST-TRY The malt whiskies or the special cocktails such as Basic Temptation, containing lemongrass-infused vodka, Amaretto and fresh lime.
  • AVERAGE COST PER HEAD ¥200/£20
  • CONTACT East Beijing, Jiuxianqiao Road, Chaoyang District;?tel +86 10 8414 9810; xian-bar.com
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