Thin Le Win sails around an awesome attraction in the Gulf of Tonkin on a unique and sumptuous vessel.

Legend has it that once upon a time, the Jade Emperor sent a Mother Dragon and her children to protect the people of Vietnam from invaders. As the dragons landed on earth, they spat out a cascade of jewels (jade or pearls, depending on who you’re talking to), which turned into thousands of stone islands and islets, forming a great wall against the invaders’ boats. And thus, the Vietnamese people kept their land and Halong Bay was born.

Whether or not one believes in mythical creatures, Halong Bay, where the Mother Dragon is supposed to have landed, is truly an awesome sight.

This was my third trip to this attraction, located in the Gulf of Tonkin, and as a current resident of Vietnam, I’ve read about its splendours so many times I’ve lost count. Yet, as I sat on the deck in my comfy wicker chair, I was once again captivated by the beauty and sheer scale of the place.

Unesco, which accorded the bay World Heritage Status in 1994, aptly called it “a spectacular seascape of limestone pillars”. And wintry Halong (I was there in February) assumes an even more surreal form.

Jagged rocks rise up to the heavens from the jade-green waters, forming some 1,600 islands – most of which are uninhabited – of every imaginable size and shape, layer upon layer of imposing yet fascinating outcrops stretching as far as the eye can see. The dramatic scenery is striking to behold, I had to admit, no matter how many times one has seen it.

This time, however, two histories collided. My front seat to Halong Bay was on Emeraude, whose history goes back only a hundred years and is short of a dragon or two, but is no less fascinating.

It all started with a vintage postcard. In 1999, Eric Merlin, founder of Exotissimo Travel, chanced upon a postcard in a Parisian flea market of a 19th-century paddle steamer named Emeraude.

His search for the origins of the steamer led him to the vaults of the French Colonial Archives in Aix-en-Provence, where he found out that Emeraude was part of a fleet of ships owned by the Roque brothers from France, that used to cruise Halong Bay from 1906 to 1937.

Merlin sent letters to over 1,200 people with the surname Roque before the descendants were found. With the archives and original photos now available, Merlin set out to build a near replica of the original Emeraude – elegantly big, beautifully white and sumptuously colonial. The 38-room vessel has been traversing the waters of Halong since 2003.

Everyone was out on the deck as soon as we boarded – we’d all travelled the three-and-half-hour journey from Hanoi in the early morning – enjoying the never-ending view. Even the cool breeze didn’t dent the enthusiasm of the travellers, an amalgam of local and foreign tourists, couples, families and groups of friends, all eager to discover the magic of Halong Bay.

I’d feared that I’d have to walk along the sides and roofs of a few different boats to get to mine, like I had to do before with old-style junks, elbowing our way amid hundreds of other tourists who are also clamouring to reach their cabins. I needn’t have worried. We reached the boat by a jaunty little tender from the purpose-built (and beautifully quiet) jetty.

The cabins occupy the two lower floors. Mine was the Paul Roque Suite at the very front of the boat, named after a second-generation Roque brother and one of the two suites onboard. With a snug double bed, polished wooden floors, air-conditioning and an attached shower and bathroom, it glows with the soft light from the beautiful glass lamps. There’s even a private deck area outside, replete with sun beds. No wonder it’s a hit with the honeymooners.

Like almost all of the vessels that cruise the Halong Bay, the Emeraude experience includes breakfast, lunch and dinner. But unlike most, the food isn’t limited to fresh seafood (delicious for me, unfamiliar and uncomfortable for most of those travelling from the West). Here, spring rolls, steamed clams and grilled prawns sat side by side with potato gratin, pork tenderloin and imported Australian steak, the buffet laid out neatly in a dining room that is like stepping back into time.

Old-fashioned leather chairs, dark wood swivel chairs, brass fittings and beadboard wainscoting all gave a true seafarer atmosphere. The boat started to cruise as lunch began – by the time I was on the deck again, Halong City was just a little speck on the horizon and the towering rocks that we’ve admired from afar came into full, close-up view.

The sun’s rays across the emerald waters, the forest green trees covering the islands and the windswept rocks formed a combination unlike any other. As the boat moved forward, little openings between the islands loomed larger before your eyes, affording views of yet another island, grottos or lagoons.

Most of the islands may be inhabited, but this hasn’t stopped the local fishermen from giving them whimsical names, based on legends and the shape they hold. There were the “kissing rocks”, the “stone dog islet”, the “cat islet” and the “turtle island”, just to name a few.

We passed by fishing villages – little rickety huts and boats floating on the water and looking like they came straight out of a beautiful watercolour. Apparently, over 1,600 people live in these villages dotted around the bay.

There are schools for the children, television and radios for the wealthier families, and even a karaoke place for those who want some entertainment.

Local kids born and raised on water approached Emeraude, expertly handling their small boats and tempting us with boxes of sweets, biscuits and shiny pearls that are harvested in Halong.

We saw traditional junks along the way, their sails flapping in the wind, and as the waiter served me a cup of hot peppermint tea, I could easily imagine what it must have been like over a century ago, when there were few boats and even fewer tourists. One thing remained certain though, the majestic scenery of Halong Bay must have been as captivating as it still is now.

We visited the Sung Sot Cave, also known as the Surprise Grotto, a legendary limestone cave with two main chambers and numerous stalactites and stalagmites. The path was steep but the panoramic view at the top made the arduous trek worthwhile.

By five in the evening, the sun had set and the rocks took a different form. Only the silhouettes were visible, yet they remained mysterious and imposing, a wonderful work of nature that gave human beings a reality check. It was an opportunity to remember that despite all our inventions, we remain in awe of – and are humbled by – nature’s handiwork. Some things are impossible to construct even with the latest technology and innovation.

I woke up the next morning as the sunlight came in through the windows. Soon, I’d have to pack my bags and return to shore.

It had been less than 24 hours since I came on the boat but I felt like I’ve done, seen and learnt a lot. Emeraude’s chief purser Thomas Kossler is a wealth of knowledge and the ebullient French captain Jacques Le Fur, full of fascinating anecdotes, a perfect dinner companion.

Cruising Halong on the Emeraude is really what you make of it. There are numerous activities to do, from the early morning tai-chi sessions to kayaking and swimming in the beautiful lagoons, from learning how to make spring rolls to indulging in spa services.

For a repeat visitor like me, however, it’s all about the splendour of the location. The gentle thud of the boat, the quiet hum of the engine and the vastness of the surroundings lull you into a state of contemplation and contentment one rarely finds in the hustle and bustle of everyday life. If anyone has future plans for cruises that last more than one night, please let me know. I have my travel bag ready.

LOCAL ADVANTAGE

  • It’s best to commute from Hanoi if you’re going to Halong Bay. The selection of hotels in Halong City is somewhat lacklustre currently, and there aren’t many activities. However, this may change when the Sheraton and Novotel open their doors later this year.
  • If you’re planning to see Halong aboard a traditional junk and not too keen on seafood or have special dietary requirements, make sure to tell the travel agent/cruise operator in advance.
  • You will not have access to the internet and even the phone reception will suffer once you leave the shore. So leave your laptops behind. Make sure your camera is fully charged though, as Halong is the perfect place for shutterbugs.
  • Bring hats, shawls and sun block. The wind may be cold but whatever sun there is can still burn you.

FACT FILE

Halong Bay is located in the Gulf of Tonkin in northern Vietnam. It’s around a three-and-a-half hour drive from Hanoi, usually with a 20-minute or so stop at one of the many showrooms that produce embroidered paintings, stone sculptures and other souvenirs.

Vietnam has a tropical weather with a monsoon season. Although Hanoi enjoys four seasons, May to September is roughly considered hot with heavy showers and October to April as cold season with little rain. The best times to see Halong are either at start or the tail end of the cold season.

Valid single and multiple entry visas are required for entry into Vietnam. They can be applied in advance at your local Vietnam embassy or consulate general.

FRONT SEATS TO AN ICON

Emeraude Classic Cruises
tel 84 4 934 0888
www.emeraude-cruises.com

Halong Jasmine
tel 84 4 984 2807
www.cruisehalong.com

Bhaya Cruises
tel 84 4 944 6777
www.bhayacruises.com