Baselworld Report

27 Jun 2018 by Business Traveller India
Blancpain Villeret Tourbillon Volant Heure Sautante Minute Rétrograde

For the collector…

Blancpain  Villeret Tourbillon Volant Heure Sautante Minute Rétrograde 

Blancpain has paired its flying tourbillon with jump hour and retrograde minute hands. The hours and minutes are shown in a stylish new way with the hours’ window situated within the minutes’ sub-dial. On the dial is another window or a “tourbillon porthole” through which one can see the watch’s movement. The grand feu (decorative technique) enamel dial was created by hand-painting several layers of enamel on the dial, and fired at around 800 degrees Celsius. The red gold case is held by an alligator strap or metal bracelet. Not a limited edition.

Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic 

Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic  

Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic takes pride in being just 3.95mm thick. It is an upgrade from the tourbillon movement of the Octo Tourbillon Finissimo that launched in 2014. The automatic winding is operated by a peripheral oscillating weight placed on the back of the movement that incorporates a flying tourbillon. An opening at the back of the watch, much like the motif adorning the entrance of the fashionable Via Condotti in Rome, shows the tourbillon movement. By choosing titanium for the casing and bracelet, Bvlgari has added lightness to the watch’s defining characteristics. Both these elements are aligned with design sensibilities of the 21st century. Limited to 50 pieces.

Harry Winston Ocean Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar Automatic 42mm

Harry Winston Ocean Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar Automatic 42mm 

Celebrating the 20th anniversary of the Ocean collection, this model is presented in white gold with baguette-cut diamonds set into its bezel and lugs. The Harry Winston applique at 12 o’clock is in emerald. The timepiece is fitted with a perpetual calendar through which the watch automatically displays 28/29 days for February and 30 or 31 days for the corresponding months. Also at the 12th hour is a sub-dial for the months, which includes the leap year indicator. The moon phase is at the sixth hour. Other versions of this model are rose gold with a brown alligator leather strap and white gold with a blue alligator leather strap. Limited to 20 pieces.

Jaquet Droz Tropical Bird Repeater

Jaquet Droz Tropical Bird Repeater  

This new model by Jaquet Droz is inspired by tropical landscapes. The mother of pearl dial, which has engravings finished in vivid colours are enclosed in a gold case. Wings of the hummingbird beat up to forty times per second. The peacock’s feathers open and close as part of the model’s working. From the palm trees somewhere near the 3 o’clock mark, a toucan appears for a brief moment. Positioned at 9 o’clock, wings of the three dancing dragonflies glow in the dark. Complementing the “lively paradise” is the green alligator leather strap. The minute-repeater mechanism is activated by a push-piece. Limited to eight pieces.

Rolex  Oyster Perpetual Grand Master II

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Grand Master II 

It is a new version to the existing Grand Master II collection by Rolex. Equipped with a self-winding mechanical movement, like all Rolex watches it comes with a Superlative Chronometer certification. The red and blue ceramic bezel that can be rotated in both directions comes with 24-hour markings, which makes it possible to read two time zones at once. The date window at the third hour is in sync with the local time. Its Oystersteel case sits on a five-link Oystersteel Jubilee bracelet. Not a limited edition.

Breguet Marine 5517

For prestige…

Breguet Marine 5517 

Breguet has partnered with the Race for Water Foundation (R4WF), an organisation dedicated to saving the ocean. In an endeavour to raise awareness on water pollution, R4WF’s solar-powered vessel will sail around the world until 2021 and host researchers and scientists on-board. It hopes to arrive at concrete solutions to reducing the amount of rubbish thrown into the ocean.

As an ode to this noble fight against the toxicity of plastic is a special edition of Breguet’s Marine 5517 timepiece that will sail the oceans on the wrists of Race for Water explorers. Marine 5517 is set in a light titanium case with a blue dial that features the Race for Water vessel in a Clous de Paris (type of engraved pattern) motif.

Chopard L.U.C Quattro

Chopard L.U.C Quattro

This year at Baselworld, Chopard announced that it will use “100 per cent responsibly sourced gold in all jewellery and watches and measure impact against UN Global Goals for sustainable development”. UN Goals are social and economic developments to be achieved by 2030, which include better treatment of the environment and people. On its Journey to Sustainable Luxury, Chopard is working with artisans and small-scale mines to receive a Fairmined certification for responsibly mined gold.

The first watch made of Fairmined gold is the L.U.C Tourbillon QF Fairmined, launched in 2014. This year, adding to the L.U.C family is a new version of the emblematic L.U.C Quattro. It is redesigned with a modern appeal. The vertical satin-brushed silver-toned dial is complete with two bright blue hands for the hours and minutes. The subdial at 6 o’clock has the seconds hand and a date indicator. The nine-day power reserve gauge is positioned at 12 o’clock. Crafted from 18-karat rose gold, the case is held by a blue calfskin leather strap with an alligator leather lining. Limited to 50 pieces.

Oris Aquis Source of Life Limited Edition

Oris Aquis Source of Life Limited Edition 

Plight of the world’s depleting water resources is highlighted in the recently launched Oris Aquis diver’s watch — Source of Life. The intention is to spread awareness about water pollution and water conservation. Oris is known for working with passionate divers who have achieved laudable goals, and are passionate about the ocean.

The design behind Source of Life is influenced by the journey of River Rhine — starting from the Swiss Alps, running along the Hölstein village, and merging into the North Sea. All 1,233km of the river’s course is embossed on the case back of the timepiece. The blue grey dial is inspired by the changing colour of the river as it makes it journey across six countries. It is water-resistant up to 300 metres and has luminescent hands. The watch’s automatic movement also operates a white indicator that moves along the date ring (marked one to 31) at the centre of the dial. It is available with a grey rubber strap or a stainless steel bracelet. Limited to 2,343 pieces.

Breitling Navitimer 8 BO1 Chronograph 43

For the hobbyist…

Breitling Navitimer 8 BO1 Chronograph 43

Known for its pilot watches — Navitimer, Montbrilliant and Chronomat — Breitling is also a manufacturer of onboard aviation instruments. Founded in 1938 by Willy Breitling, the Breitling Huit Aviation Department provided onboard clocks and other dashboard instruments to the military and civil aviation. The new Breitling Navitimer takes inspiration from Breitling Huit Aviation clocks. A true tool and pilot’s watch, the self-winding Navitimer 8 B01 features a strong steel case, 30-minute and 12-hour counters, 70-hour power reserve, and has a vintage aesthetic with the bi-directional coin-edge bezel. It is available in steel with a black or blue dial, or in 18-karat red gold with a bronze dial. Not a limited edition.

Favre-Leuba Raider Bathy 120 MemoDepth

Favre-Leuba Raider Bathy 120 MemoDepth

Favre-Leuba prides itself on creating timepieces that attempt to “conquer extremes of nature”. Its original Bathy that launched in 1968 is believed to be the first wristwatch to be equipped with a depth gauge. This year, marking Bathy’s 50th anniversary, the watchmaker has introduced the new Raider Bathy 120 MemoDepth. Its technology is a complete upgrade from the original model. Separate from the mechanical movement, the watch features a depth gauge with several openings that allow water to seep inside. Once the water enters the separate chamber in the case back through the apertures, the membrane compresses and the pressure heightens. The hand of the depth gauge reacts to this and displays the dive depth. Record of the maximum depth reached during a dive can be stored. Not a limited edition.

Graham Chronofighter Superlight Carbon

Graham Chronofighter Superlight Carbon

Graham’s Chronofighter Superlight Carbon collection takes inspiration from dynamic, coloured racing tyres. The collection primarily draws from Graham’s connection with motor racing. It features a “superlight” carbon technology, maintaining the weight of each watch to less than 100 grams, which is an important criterion for motor racing watches. It has a 47mm superlight black carbon composite case, a black carbon fast-action start/stop trigger, a black carbon reset pusher and a black carbon bezel. The tachymeter and a reversed minutes counter have a white coloured indicator for the starting point. This model comes with an integrated purple rubber strap with “Clous de Paris” that is a special type of dial guilloche or embossing. Not a limited edition.

Hublot The Big Bang Referee 2018 FIFA World Cup Russia

Hublot The Big Bang Referee 2018 FIFA World Cup Russia

An official partner of the 2018 FIFA World Cup in Russia, Hublot creates an iconic smartwatch for football lovers that bears the brand’s emblematic shape cut out in titanium. It is equipped to provide timely notifications such as alerting the wearer 15 minutes before kick-offs as well as when yellow and red cards, player changes, and goals take place. Applications on the watch’s screen can be personalised, allowing you to pick from a series of  “fan” dials that come in the colours of participating countries. The smartwatch is compatible with all phones using Android 4.4 and above or iOS 9 and above. The watch just needs to be placed on a contact charger for charging purposes. Limited to 2018 pieces.

Tag Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 01

Tag Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 01

The watchmaker announced its partnership with Aston Martin and Aston Martin Racing at the International Geneva Motor Show. To celebrate this alliance, it unveiled two special editions that were then displayed at Baselworld this year. Pictured is the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 01 automatic chronograph, which is inspired from Aston Martin’s world of luxury. It features an exclusive Aston Martin dial, replicating details of the automaker’s Vantage model. The skeletal dial on a hexagonal casing displays the manufacture movement through the dial. Lines on the side evoke speed, the race track and engine’s piston. It also features a black ceramic tachymeter bezel with Aston Martin engraving. Not a limited edition.

Tissot T-Race Cycling

Tissot T-Race Cycling

Tissot celebrates the activity of cycling with its TRace Cycling model that was displayed at Baselworld this year. Designed with bicycle-inspired elements, this collection is targeted at both enthusiasts and professionals. The bracelet and lugs of the watch depict the bicycle frame’s fork, the tachymeter bezel represents the wheel, and break lever design shows in the pusher. Flip the watch over and you’ll see the bicycle chain pattern on the back of the bracelet. The large hands make it easy to read the time on the go. The watch is available in a variety of colours including red and yellow, giving it a sporty look. Not a limited edition.

Zenith Defy Zero G Swizz Beatz

Zenith Defy Zero G Swizz Beatz

The Grammy-winner musician Swizz Beatz first partnered with Zenith in 2017 to launch the Zenith Defy El Primero 21 in New York City. The El Primero is a milestone in watchmaking — the first chronograph that enables measuring time down to 1/10th of a second. This year, the alliance has extended itself with the unveiling of Defy fitted with the patented “Gravity Control” device that cancels the effects of gravity believed to interfere with precise timekeeping. Each timepiece is engraved with an inspirational quote by Swizz Beatz, and comes in a 44mm diameter brushed titanium case with an orange dial. Its white rubber and orange alligator leather bracelet features a titanium and white gold buckle. Limited to three pieces.

Balmain Haute Elegance Oval

For the ladies…

Balmain Haute Elegance Oval

Balmain compares the shape of this watch to Snow White’s mirror by which she was enamoured in the fairy tale. A delicate jewellery-style bracelet or a smart lizard patterned strap can be chosen for Haute Elegance Oval. Its case is made of stainless steel and bracelets come in silver, yellow- and rose-gold shades, as well as in bi-colour combinations. Drawing prominent attention to itself is the minimal “petite seconde” display that is placed above six o’clock. Bringing out this model’s daintiness is an arabesque design on the mother-of-pearl dial. Not a limited edition.

Carl F. Bucherer Adamavi

Carl F. Bucherer Adamavi

The watchmaker has added nine new models to its Adamavi collection. Derived from the Latin word adamare (it means “to come to love something”), the collection is offered in various straps and is designed for both men and women. Specifically for ladies, Carl F. Bucherer has launched four timepieces in stainless steel. Featured is the stunning Milanese bracelet model that has a modestly sized case at 31mm. Another option is a black alligator leather strap or a link bracelet with stainless steel and rose gold elements. It is also offered in a case diameter of 28mm, for women who prefer smaller watches. Not a limited edition.

OMEGA Seamaster Aqua Terra Jewellery

OMEGA Seamaster Aqua Terra Jewellery 

The brand has introduced several “Jewellery” models to its Seamster Aqua Terra collection this year. Dressed in a 38mm case crafted from 18-karat Sedna gold, the Seamaster Aqua Terra Jewellery has a glittering diamond-paved bezel. Its dial features three different styles of horizontal waves that represent the Seamaster’s connection to the ocean. Silvery guilloché, 18-karat Sedna gold and 191 diamonds are interspersed to create an illusion of glitzy waves on the dial. The case’s side features Aqua Terra’s conical crown, polished with the watchmaker’s logo on a matte surface. Its shiny red leather strap further adds a touch of femininity to the watch. Not a limited edition.

Rado The True Thinline Nature Collection

Rado The True Thinline Nature Collection

For this collection, Rado attempts to blend nature with design. It has partnered with Grandi Giardini Italiani, an organisation that promotes the heritage of Italian gardens, for the True Thinline Nature Collection. This is exhibited by bringing together colours of earth, water and greenery. Created in high-tech ceramic, Rado has used unique dial treatments that coincide with nature. For instance, a mother-of-pearl dial evokes “water”, a metal coating on the dial emanates “earth” and a mother-of-pearl dial with a leafy structure displays “greenery”. The one displayed here features a sandblasted titanium case back. Not a limited edition.

Walter von Känel, President, Longines

In conversation with…

Walter von Känel, President, Longines

What relationship does Longines share with India?

We cannot be, without being in India. You have the domestic market with the young and mature Indians, the broad Indian community that is strong in other countries, and then you have the Indian workers in Dubai, Kuwait and Saudi. We cater to all.

Into what markets does Longines wish to expand?

India! Actually, the USA too. In China, we are number one in our price segment. We definitely want to expand further in India.

New Indian laws and taxes have led to increased prices for certain segments, including watches. Would you consider a price revision?

I will not change my pricing policy. About 50 per cent of our business comes from the price segment under which our products fall. We have to motivate them (buyers) with new products like Very High Precision watches or those built for a purpose. You see the diving watch? That’s one of our products here to motivate them. I don’t want to change my pricing policy.

The Longines Legend Diver Watch is the 1960s model reimagined. The original style, such as the boxed glass and bidirectional internal turning diving bezel has been retained. The model comes with a black lacquered dial, mechanical self-winding movement, black rubber strap with a Milanese or pop look, and luminescent indexes, numerals and hands. It is water-resistant up to 300 metres.

Uwe Ahrendt CEO Nomos Glashütte

Uwe Ahrendt, CEO, Nomos Glashütte

Could you talk a little bit about the response you have got from India?

We came to India only last year, actually. The response so far has been good.

How would you describe Nomos watches?

Our design is classic and minimalistic. It’s also timeless, which caters to a broad audience. Of course, because our watches fall under the ₹1,20,000- ₹4,00,000 price bracket (excluding high-end gold watches), you need a certain amount of disposable income to be able to afford them.

What aspects of your designs are likely to change or remain constant?

In the last 25 years, Nomos has built up a collection that falls within a strong design spectrum, so you can instantly recognise a Nomos watch anywhere. Even if we go a different way, for example the Autobahn collection, it still has Nomos elements.

Autobahn Neomatik 41 Date Sports Gray is part of the sporty Autobahn collection. It is inspired by vintage cars and this shows in the racing model’s dial replicating a speedometer. It has a galvanised, rhodium-plated blue luminous ring with hour markers. The orange-tipped hands stretch to the outer ring that has the minute markers. A sub-dial above the elongated date window, showing three days at a time, at 6 o’clock displays the seconds. It comes with a woven blue-black textile strap.

Jérôme Biard, CEO, Corum

Jérôme Biard, CEO, Corum

Why has Corum introduced the tourbillon mechanism to its Bubble collection?

There are many reasons why. First of all, we want to show that Corum has been in the forefront of high-end movements for watches. We’re about quality, have an open mind and believe in out-of-the-box thinking. Our Bubble collection, for example, uses special glass, and is impressive to look at. It makes sense to show that the tourbillon can also match the Bubble concept.

Who is the target audience for the Bubble collection?

Our clients love quality, they’re audacious, and like doing things a little differently from the others. The collection targets young people. Today, the young have a lot of money, and there are many who are successful entrepreneurs. Unlike earlier, they know what they want, and they get it. Still, I think it’s a mixed age-group audience these days.

Bubble Central Tourbillon is generously proportioned such that one can view the mechanism through its domed sapphire crystal. Hands for the hours and minutes are replaced by two triangular markers that move along two concentric rings. The visible tourbillon movement itself ticks per second. Keeping in step with the spirit of Bubble watches, Central Tourbillon is funky and playful. It is available in black and pink gold on a rubber strap, and natural titanium and blue on a rubber strap or on Milanese mesh made from grade 5 titanium.

Olivier Bernheim, President, Raymond Weil

Olivier Bernheim, President, Raymond Weil

With what vision did Raymond Weil launch?

Originally, it was launched with the idea to produce unique designs of the highest quality at a sensitive price, and this is still the motto of the brand today.

How do you forecast the brand’s performance this year?

The price point we are working with —₹40,000 to ₹3,50,000 — is the bracket that is going to develop. Our growth has been steady year after year because of our price point, for which we are known. It is affordable. The good thing is that you have emerging markets like China, and you have a potentially emerging market like India, where I’m expecting to see growth.

Will Raymond Weil always be associated with music?

Definitely. Last year we launched Maestro The Beatles Limited Edition, AC/DC Limited Edition Freelancer is ongoing, and this year we have The Bob Marley Limited Edition.

The Bob Marley Tango 300 Limited Edition is a tribute to the life and career of the Jamaican singer-songwriter. It will launch exclusively in the Caribbean this December, and is limited to just 600 pieces operated by a quartz chronograph mechanism. The Bob Marley logo is engraved on the case back, and the stainless steel case with black PVD plated bezel rests on a rubber strap. Representing the Ethiopian flag are the green and yellow hands, as well as the red markings on the minutes’ track ring.

Neha Gupta Kapoor and Akanksha Maker

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