Features

Back to the wild

1 Oct 2005 by business traveller

Imagine staying in a luxury hotel deep inside a remote game reserve, where large carnivores stalk prey in their native environment, and you have captured the dream behind Alladale Wilderness Lodge and Reserve. It might not seem unusual but there is one difference: Alladale is not in Kenya or South Africa but tucked away in the Scottish Highlands. 

Once a little-used hunting estate, Alladale is slowly being transformed by its new owner into 23,000 acres of perfectly preserved Scottish wilderness, which can be enjoyed with the full-service trimmings of a stylish eight-bedroom lodge that has its own brand-new gym, sauna and spa treatment rooms.

The first guestrooms have been refurbished and work will be complete by spring 2006, but it is the changes taking place outside that are potentially ground breaking. Using wildlife reserves in South Africa as a template, the aim is to turn Alladale into a haven for threatened species, such as the red squirrel, pine marten and wildcat. And instead of relying on hunting to keep deer numbers in check, owner Paul Lister hopes to reintroduce long-extinct predators including the Eurasian lynx, grey wolf and European bear, creating Europe's only large-scale fenced wilderness reserve.

There are several years of planning and preparation ahead before the first grey wolf steps back onto Scottish soil since the 17th century – not least allaying the fears of locals that large predators will run riot in their back gardens. But in the meantime the reserve offers more than enough appeal.

There is ample time for excitement to mount during the hour-long journey north from Inverness airport. As we ascend the Highlands our mobile phones die out one by one and the road is eventually compressed by the wilderness into a single lane and then a bumpy track, which snakes up to the lodge, on an elevated plateau overlooking a lush panorama of mountains and forest.

No non-indigenous species of tree are allowed here; the reserve is also a refuge for the most northerly remnants of Caledonian Scots pine, of which just one per cent remains. The valley floor of Glen Alladale – one of three glens in the reserve – was once covered in forest, but deforestation and overgrazing have left it bare. Lonely clumps of pine cling to the mountains that march into the distance on either side of the valley. From the highest point you can see, on a clear day (alas, ours wasn't), both east and west coasts of Scotland.

Restoration is under way in the form of tree replanting and deer reduction. Lodge guests help to keep deer numbers down on "stalking" retreats, and the meat is not wasted: carcasses are returned to the lodge to be prepared and sent as venison to mainland Europe. Paul Lister, a keen businessman, has put significant investment into renovations but is optimistic that the reserve, which will be commercially run, will attract corporate sponsorship. He is also applying for EU funding.

The only significant foreign species remaining is the Asian sika deer, which are gradually being eradicated – except "Bucky".

A baby sika, he was found lost and alone after his mother had likely fallen prey to a rifle, and was adopted by the lodge household. Little realising his status as illegal immigrant, Bucky managed to secure himself a stay of execution by melting the hearts of lodge staff.

Other activities at the lodge include clay pigeon shooting, trout fishing, mountain biking and walking. Paul plans to draw up hiking trails for keen walkers – just one of the many items on his to-do list, along with setting up an education centre, installing a turbine to supply the lodge's electricity and, of course, the most exciting part of Alladale's future: returning long-lost predators to Scotland.

Fact file

The lodge is available for private parties and corporate retreats for up to 16 people with rates starting from £157 per person, per night including all meals and activities.

There are also plans to host regular three-night "open-house parties" in which couples can book one room and meet fellow guests, costing £1,400 per couple.

The lodge offers three-night special interest retreats for activities including fly fishing, photography, painting and yoga. Prices vary; visit www.alladale.com for a calendar of events and prices.

Getting there: BA serves Inverness from Gatwick with return tickets typically priced from £117. Also served by Easyjet from Luton and Bmi from Heathrow.


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