Features

Aussie Flavour

1 Jan 2009 by intern11
Travelling around Perth with your palate is one unique gustatory adventure. Gigi Onag samples five of top restaurants in the Perth CBD and Fremantle

As Sydney and Melbourne, the main gateways to Australia, get the lion’s share of visitors, it is hardly surprising that both cities’ dining scene has lots to offer in terms of international cuisines and menus with a cosmopolitan feel.

Perth, the capital of Western Australia, does not lack the specialised dishes for Asians and Europeans who hanker for a taste of home. But discerning gourmets visiting the city will find a burgeoning and vibrant dining scene that is unabashedly Australian. The locals will proudly attest that there is nothing quite like dining in Perth, eating gourmet fare under the warm sun or cool evening breeze.

We check out five restaurants that always have a spot in Perth’s top dining guides.

C Restaurant

FIRST IMPRESSIONS: The best time of day to come here is when the sun is just setting on the horizon and you see the Perth CBD is gradually enveloped by darkness, and the buildings and structures simultaneously light up.

C is one of Perth’s favourite watering holes and located on the top 33rd floor of the St Martins Tower. It is a circular revolving restaurant that gives breathtaking views of the Perth metropolitan area, the Swan River, Kings Park and beyond, even as far as Rottnest Island and the Darling Ranges, all visible from this amazing location.

This established dining landmark, which will celebrate its 30th anniversary this year, has soothing earth-toned interiors and a capacity for up to 300 diners. It is also open for private, corporate events anytime of day from Monday to Thursday.

THE FOOD: C has a diverse menu and it creates special menus for those with special needs. Since we weren’t hungry, we declined the entrée and went straight to a light main course of grilled salmon. We weren’t to be disappointed as it was fresh and succulent from first bite.

DRINKS: An extensive wine list. Ask the wait staff for the best wine pairing for your meal.

SERVICE: Prompt and efficient.

PRICES: An entrée and main course, or a main course and a dessert cost A$74 (US$48) per person. Any additional courses (entrée or dessert) are A$15 (US$10) each. Wine is available by the glass or by the bottle from A$9 (US$6) and A$40 (US$26) respectively.

VERDICT: Great place to meet friends and colleagues for after-hour drinks and dinner.

CONTACT: 44 St Georges Terrace, Level 33, St Martins Tower, Perth, Western Australia, tel 61 8 9220 8333, www.crestaurant.com.au. Opens 1100 till late, Monday to Friday; 1700 till late on Saturday and 1200 till late on Sunday.

Coco’s Riverside Bar & Restaurant

FIRST IMPRESSIONS: Located on the banks of the Swan River on the South Perth Esplanade, Coco’s has been one of Perth’s premier fine-dining restaurants for over 18 years. Guests can expect a pleasant and welcoming ambience and a spectacular panoramic view of the Swan River.

Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, the restaurant is a popular dining destination for both locals and visitors. It can seat up to 180.

THE FOOD: When we visited, there was a changing of the guard at Coco’s with Ross Davis to take over Andy Henderson as executive chef. But the diners can take heart that the tradition of fine dining continues.

Signature dishes include the Spanish-inspired grilled scallop with pear chutney, oven-roasted Chinese-style duck and Coco’s prime beef fillet. Coco’s introduces at least one new dish per month and refreshes its menu every season to reflect the changes in local produce. “I try to achieve some harmony when I design a dish. I try to combine all the ingredients together to develop a full palate,” says Davis.

DRINKS: For the wine connoisseur, the extensive vintage cellar is sure to please. Owner Ian Love buys direct from the vineyards and then cellars the wine for five to six years. Vintage-wine club members get a selection of vintage wines at cheaper-than-auction prices.

SERVICE: Staff are very friendly. For regular customers, Chef Davis can accommodate special dish requests that are not on the menu.

PRICES: Entrée from A$15 to A$25 (US$10-US$16), mains from A$28 to A$40 (US$18-US$26) and dessert from A$14 (US$9).

VERDICT: Food has texture and a meticulous eye on details is clearly apparent. Presentation is also top-notch.

CONTACT: 85 South Perth Esplanade, South Perth, Western Australia, tel 61 8 9474 3030, www.cocosperth.com. Opens 0900 till late from Monday to Saturday, and 0800 until late on Sunday.

Fraser’s Restaurant

FIRST IMPRESSIONS: Just a 10-minute drive from Perth CBD and located at the top of Kings Park, Fraser’s Restaurant offers a green respite for business travellers who want to dine amid a natural setting.

Fraser’s dining room exudes a contemporary feel with dark timber, warm reds and deep blues. The floor-to-ceiling walls separating the indoor and alfresco courtyard give diners a good view of Kings Park.

The restaurant has private dining rooms and a function centre to cater for all-day conference and business events. The observation deck on the top floor can accommodate 600 guests for cocktails and gives a fantastic panorama of city’s nighttime skyline.

THE FOOD: Fraser’s serves contemporary Australian cuisine. Chef Sam Southall says new dishes are added to the menu all-year round, depending on the local produce available in the market.

For starters, we couldn’t resist one of Fraser’s popular dishes. The pan-fried goat’s cheese gnocchi with basil, tomato and pine nuts felt like it almost melted in the mouth – a definite must-try. For mains, we went for the grilled snapper on potato purée with fennel and parsley with chardonnay dressing.

Chef Southall says regulars also developed a liking for the chargrilled asparagus with tomato and Persian fetta, and they are popular when asparagus is in season.

For first-time visitors, Southall recommends seafood, which after all is what Fraser’s is famous for. Seafood is strongly featured on the menu, from chilli soft-shell crabs to chargrilled rock lobster with lemon butter. However, there are still plenty of weighty options for carnivores, such as the roast loin of lamb.

DRINKS: Sommelier Patrick Salord has developed a very comprehensive wine list that features the best of Australian wines, particularly those grown and bottled from Western Australia. From scratch, Fraser’s has grown a selection that now occupies four cellars, so there is always a wine that complements every dish.

SERVICE: If unsure about anything in the menu, ask any of the staff who are well trained to explain what is on every dish and what is the best wine to match.

PRICES: Entrees from A$17 (US$11), mains from A$37 (US$24) and desert from A$14 (US$9). Wine by the glass from A$11 (US$7).

VERDICT: A quiet, spacious space that affords a lot of privacy. Perfect for business travellers having a working lunch or dinner.

CONTACT: Fraser’s Avenue, Kings Park, Perth, Western Australia, tel 61 8 9481 7100, www.frasersrestaurant.com.au. Opens Monday to Friday between 1200 and 2200. Breakfast

is served Saturday and Sunday when the restaurant is open from 0800 to 2200.

Indiana Cottesloe Beach

FIRST IMPRESSIONS: Built in 1910 and originally named Indiana Tea House, this beautiful example of architecture offers uninterrupted ocean views from every window, recycled wood for plenty of warmth and an exterior that seems to rise effortlessly from the sand.

Cottesloe Beach is well known for its beautifully terraced lawn areas under Norfolk pine trees, overlooking a sparkling beach of pristine white sand and sparkling clear water. And Indiana Restaurant is its beachside landmark.

The venue recently underwent refurbishment to include new decor, fittings and a splendid private dining room, making the restaurant one of Perth’s most sought-after venues once again. It has a seating capacity of between 120 and 170 diners.

The recent renovation is not the only reason to check out this beachside icon. When we visited, executive chef Brad Selwood was doing a refresh of the menu. It is Australian cuisine with some French inspiration.

Expect an emphasis on seafood, with South Australian oysters, seared scallops, tempura soft-shell crab and a choice of fish. For the meat lovers, they can dig their knives on the eye fillet, beef cheek croquette and sweet potato dauphinoise with a red wine and porcini port jus. Also popular among diners is the confit of duck with sweet orange beetroot relish, asparagus and sautéed potatoes in paprika.

DRINKS: There’s a comprehensive beverage list that includes juices and non-alcoholic drinks. The wine list is also pretty extensive.

SERVICE: Relaxed and friendly.

PRICES: Entrées start from A$17 (US$11) and mains start from A$34 (US$22); wine by the glass starts from A$9 (US$6).

VERDICT: A perfect place to unwind and dine during a downtime in your busy schedule.

CONTACT: 99 Marine Parade, Cottesloe Beach, Western Australia, tel 61 8 9385 5005, www.indiana.com.au. Opens daily for lunch and dinner from 1200 until late.

Little Creatures

FIRST IMPRESSIONS: Converted from a boatshed and crocodile farm, Little Creatures is located inside a working brewery at Fremantle’s Fishing Boat Harbour, also home to the popular Cicerello’s for a variety of seafood. This “cellar door” bar and restaurant serves its own branded craft beers straight from the conditioning tanks and diners can watch the beer being made from their table.

The industrial-type atmosphere is certainly out of the ordinary. But this is clearly a place where everybody is welcome – families, workers, professionals and students. It has a capacity for 600.

Little Creatures is on an expansion phase right now. Recently opened, The Loft is a lounge bar targeting the 25- to 55-year-old social drinkers.

While it is open for lunch, the place really begins to buzz with activities at sunset.

THE FOOD: Mediterranean, Modern Australian and pizza. Wood-fired pizzas are the signature dish. For the adventurous first-time visitors to Oz, the marinated kangaroo and bush tomato chutney is worth trying.

Little Creatures allows diners to share with its big portions.

With more than 300 seats inside, a sweeping shady alfresco area out front and a courtyard facing the marina at the back, there’s plenty of room to invite along a few extra friends.

DRINKS: Aside from its own branded beers, great wines, soft drinks and coffees are also available at the bar.

SERVICE: As foot traffic can be very busy at peak hours, service is very quick.

PRICES: Mains are A$7 to A$21 (US$4-US$13) and desserts at A$9 (US$6). Beers start from A$4.50 (US$3) and wines by the glass starts from A$7 (US$4.50).

VERDICT: A place with no pretensions. A great place to chill.

CONTACT: 40 Mews Road, Fremantle, Western Australia, tel 61 8 9338 8500, www.littlecreatures.com.au. Opens from 1000 to 2400, Monday to Friday; and from 0900 to 2400, Saturday and Sunday.

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