Istanbul: Artistic vision

Time to spare between meetings? A visit to Istanbul Modern provides a fascinating insight into today’s Turkey, says Tom Otley The first-time visitor to Istanbul will focus on the ancient sites – Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, the Ottoman cisterns and the Topkapi Palace. More regular visitors, taking time out from business meetings or perhaps returning after a few years away, will crave attractions that are in many ways more representative of the modern Turkey and Istanbul. Top of the list must be Istanbul Modern, housed in a renovated warehouse on the banks of the Bosphorus. Founded in the 1980s, and in its present location since 2004, the museum is privately funded by the Eczacibasi family and relies on commercial sponsorship and admission fees for its championing of Turkish and global modern art. Covering 8,000 sqm, the museum has both temporary exhibitions and a permanent collection of art from the 20th century. Called “Past and Future”, the latter features some 180 works by 136 local and international artists, presented chronologically to show the development of modern and contemporary art in Turkey over the years. The basement floor is dedicated to temporary shows as well as the gallery’s library. Here, you can’t miss the eye-catching work by Richard Wentworth – “False Ceiling”– made of hundreds of British and Turkish books (pictured). International pieces such as this have been a result of collaborations with London’s Design Museum, the Irish Museum of Modern Art in Dublin, Athens’ Benaki Museum, the Verbund Collection in Vienna and the Thessaloniki and Moscow photography biennales. A major exhibition this year, until August 2, is “Magnum – Contact Sheets”, which explores the creative process behind some of the world’s most iconic photographs from the Magnum Photos agency. Upcoming shows include “Caution! Slippery Ground – An Exhibition on Architectural Culture”, from the Vitra Contemporary Architecture Series (March 26-May 31), and a young architect’s programme held in collaboration with New York’s Museum of Modern Art (June 11-November 15). Whatever is showing, it has to be striking to compete with the exhibition space. Floor-to-ceiling windows have views across the Golden Horn, while a superb restaurant with a balcony will turn a visit of a few hours into half a day. Istanbul Modern is open Tues-Sun 10am-6pm, Thurs until 8pm; entry TL 19 (£5). Restaurant open 10am-12am. istanbulmodern.org/en