Old
Blue Elephant Restaurant
Part of the fun is in finding this place. Hidden within Bangkok’s typically disorganised cityscape is a century-old building that houses the restaurant. Being here feels like you’re visiting a prominent family in turn-of-the-century Siam. The menu features classic Thai dishes, modern ones as well as “future” recipes created by owner Nooror Somany Steppe. The Blue Elephant brand has grown to include locations in Europe and the
Middle East.
Recommended dishes include Muslim-style massaman lamb curry (THB380/US$13), crispy grouper with a sauce (THB520/US$17) flavoured with Prachuab Khirikhun pineapple, garlic and chili sauce, and black chicken green curry (THB550/US$18), served with crispy roti bread. For something truly decadent, try foie gras tamarind sauce (THB720/US$24).
Open daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6.30pm-10.30pm; Blue Elephant Building 233 South Sathorn Road, Kwaeng Yannawa, Khet Sathorn; tel +66 2 673 9353; www.blueelephant.com/bangkok
New
Quince
One of the trendiest spots in town for wining and dining, Quince is a pan-Mediterranean restaurant housed in what is said to be a 1950s Sukhumvit home. Inside, however, it feels more like you’re in a former warehouse space, the exposed pipes, iron beams and tall windows creating a distinctly industrial feel. The menu is divided into “small” (tapas), “salads, vegetables, grains and the like”, and “something more substantial”. The albondigas lamb meatballs in cumin and tomato with pickled chilli (THB150/US$5) served as a very good start to our meal, and the confit pork belly with sriracha coleslaw and olive powder (THB400/US$13.5) was simply sinful. My hand-cut noodles with seafood, tomato ragu, chilli and basil (THB380/US$13) was also well done both in flavour and texture. But the best thing about this place is the atmosphere – it’s lively and urbane. Cocktails are also a strong suit.
Open 11.30am-1am; Sukhumvit Soi 45; tel +66 2 662 4478; www.quincebangkok.com
Borrowed
T&K Seafood
One of the most popular culinary expeditions in the Thai capital is to go to Chinatown for seafood, and locals will tell you that there are two options: the restaurant with green uniforms and another with yellow uniforms. We chose the former, which is T&K. Filling a narrow four-storey building, this place first impresses with all the activity at the entrance, as fresh seafood is sorted and order slips are transported up and down various floors along wires. The stairways are narrow and so was our table, but this is not the place for a peaceful ambience. You come here for cheap and cheery fresh catches of the day. The oyster Thai omelette (THB100/US$3.4) was full of very plump and sweet molluscs, but the stir-fried meat crab with black pepper (THB300/US$10 per small portion) was only so-so. We did enjoy the steamed prawns in fresh milk (THB200/US$6.7 for a small portion) – it took some getting used to, but the crustaceans were flavoursome and the milk gave it a smooth texture.
Open 4.30pm-2am; 49-51 Soi Phadung Dao, Chinatown; tel +66 2 223 4519.
View
Long Table
If you ask trendy Bangkokians, they will say this place is not as popular as it once was – and it seemed true the night we visited. We still had an enjoyable evening though, with some delectable Thai dishes while sharing the 24-metre-long table with other diners. There are booths too for those who prefer privacy. Sit by the windows and you can enjoy a great view of Benjakitti Park with the city’s largest lake, and Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre.
The food is modern Thai, with very traditional ingredients but modern Western presentation. Dishes worth trying include the very refreshing tuna and octopus capriccio with sesame vinaigrette, roasted rice and chickpea salsa (THB1,500/US$50); complexly flavoured Japanese sea scallops with dried scallops, broccoli, black pepper sauce and crispy garlic (THB990/US$33); and hearty fried sea bass with green mango salad and sweet tamarind chilli sauce (THB700/US$23). After dinner, head out to the poolside terrace for a drink and some great breezes (the pool belongs to the serviced apartments in the same building).
Open daily 5pm-2am, dinner is served 6pm-11pm, snack menu until 1.30am; 25/F, 48 Column Tower, Sukhumvit Soi 16; tel +66 2 302 2557-9; www.longtablebangkok.com
