Open-air markets have been transformed into culture and lifestyle hubs, some boasting a seaside location and green open spaces. The Business Traveller team scours for some good buys.
MELTING POT
The Albert Cuypmarkt, Amsterdam
The cosmopolitan Pijp district of Amsterdam is home to the Albert Cuypmarkt. This market, which stretches from the junction of Ferdinand Bolstraat to the eastern-most reaches of Albert Cuypstraat, is the largest in The Netherlands. A heady 20,000 shoppers visit daily during the week and the number is doubled on Saturdays.
Named after a Dutch landscape painter, the Albert Cuypmarkt on the eponymous street is a colourful affair, bringing together people from diverse races and cultures. The stalls of Dutch, Moroccan, Surinamese and Turkish sellers neighbour each other with geen (no) problem. (Since the 2002 and 2004 killings of politician Pim Fortuyn, champion of strict immigration policies, and filmmaker Theo Van Gogh, an outspoken commentator on Islam, race has been a sensitive topic in The Netherlands.)
BEST BUYS: Fulfilled heart desires run the gamut of food, home ware, watches, luggage, clothes and fashion accessories. Flashing grins, cries of ‘who’s next?’, and the rustle of goods being exchanged for euros can be seen and heard.
Shops selling foreign condiments and the Surinamese and Indonesian restaurants that flank the strip offer a glimpse of The Netherlands’ maritime past. For a taste of “real” Holland, the Albert Cuyp also touts the typically Dutch: every hued tulips, rounds of Gouda and Edam, and the local delicacy haring fish. Also highly recommended: frites (fries laden with the classic mayonnaise, kroketten (deep-fried bread-crumbed sausages filled with meat ragout), oliebollen (sweet dough balls dusted with caster sugar) and stroopwafels (round biscuits with a caramel filling).
GETTING THERE: The Albert Cuypmarkt is situated just outside the Grachtengordel girdle of canals and within easy padding distance of the Leidseplein and Museumplein. Trams 4, 16, 24 and 25 all stop close by. Alternatively, go by bike but be prepared to jostle for space.
OPENING HOURS: From 0900-1700, Monday to Saturday.
CONTACT: Albert Cuypstraat, De Pijp, Amsterdam, The Netherlands, email [email protected]
Nicole Chabot
ROUND THE CLOCK
Klong Thom, Bangkok
Bangkok is heaving with markets and many small alleyways and street corners that turn into impromptu bazaars at lunch time and after work. Most visitors head for the weekend stalls of Chatuchak to dive in and simply get lost among the goods and increasing number of tourists. Then, there’s the copy mecca of Patong night market. But if you want to get off the well-trodden trails and do something more interesting with your evenings, head for Klong Thom.
The market is located in Bangkok’s Pom Prap Sattru Phai district and got its name back in 1932 when the government was rapidly filling in the canals that crisscrossed the city so they could build roads. “Klong Thom” literally means filled-in canal.
Klong Thom gets really packed on Saturday evenings until about 11pm. A great time to visit is Sunday morning between 8am and 11am when it is neither too hot or crowded, where you can grab a coffee and sit and chat with vendors, who are more lovers of what they do than ruthless sellers.
BEST BUYS: This is the flea market that Thai collectors in-the-know flock to, and don’t tell visitors about. Feel free to rummage about – everything from classic cars and clothes to toys, stamps, old bank notes, clocks, kitchen wear and vintage brand memorabilia. Vinyl disks are popular and sell from THB200 (US$6) to THB600 (US$18).
Talad Fai Chay, or torch market, is a highlight. This areas has no electricity, so vendors throw you a torch to examine their goods.
While all prices are about 50 percent less than that in department stores – have your wits about you anyway. Most items can’t be found in regular shops, so just halve what they say and work your way up.
GETTING THERE: Taxi is the best bet. If you go by bus, ask for Luang Road, Warachak Road, Charoen Krung Road, And Sue Pa Road in Pom Prap Sattru Phai district. Don’t drive as parking is a nightmare. However, parking is available for the very brave at Klong Thom Center, Sri Worajak Building, Chalermnakorn Building at THB30 (87 cents) hourly.
OPENING HOURS: Klong Thom market kicks off at 1700 on Saturday nights and literally goes through until Sunday evening at about 1700.
CONTACT: www.tourismthailand.org
David Johnson
TREASURE TROVE
Baoguo Temple Culture Market, Beijing
Shoppers for antiques and collectibles in Beijing are familiar with the Panjiayuan market. But those in the know will, instead, choose to shop in the Baoguo Temple Culture Market at Xianwumen’s Guang An Avenue. Originally a Liao-dynasty Buddhist temple, and occupying 17,000sqm of space, Baoguo market was built over 1,100 years ago. Having undergone a phase of destruction, it was reconstructed in 1466 and became known as the Baoguo Temple Culture Market. It has existed for about 900 years.
Today, the quaint marketplace boasts hundreds of shops selling old books, calligraphy, art pieces, collectible currencies, porcelain, jadeite and other curios. Many sellers are either skilled craftsmen or knowledgeable antique sellers and are happy to chat about collecting antiques with their customers.
While you’re busy shopping, make sure you visit the temple’s prayer hall, which has been converted into an exhibition hall displaying all kinds of collectibles and artefacts – such as old Chinese currencies, stamps, jade, porcelain and lacquer ware. Truly a joy for even the layman collector who simply enjoys browsing.
BEST BUYS: Plenty of ancient Chinese currencies, old stamps, brushes and other writing tools, cultural revolution propaganda, comics, Second World War mementoes such as leather bullet cases and other rare finds. Prices are harder to determine and uniqueness and rarity are often a determinant of the item’s value – of course, some bargaining helps.
GETTING THERE: Take the Beijing underground to Chang Chung Avenue and walk for 10 minutes until you arrive at Cai Shi Kou department store, which is opposite the Baoguo market. If all else fails, take a cab.
OPENING HOURS: From 0830 to 1630 daily.
CONTACT: 1 Baoguo Temple, Guang'anmennei, Xuanwu District, Beijing, tel 86 10 6303 0976.
Claire Lin
STUFF FOR REAL
Mindil Beach Sunset Markets, Darwin
Established in 1987 with just 40 stalls, today the Mindil Beach Sunset Markets attract up to 20,000 people weekly to its handicraft and art booths. Not bad, given that the Northern Territory’s capital has a total population of just 120,000. The market claims to have more self-made items than any other market in the country and employs almost 1,000 locals.
Once the shopping is done, you can sample dishes from the excellent hawker-like food-stands, which offer global cuisine with a strong Asian bias. Settle down with a bottle or two of Australian wine to watch the stunning sunsets over the Timor Sea, looking northward to Indonesia, or watch and listen to local musicians, magicians, fire-eaters and the like entertaining the crowds. This unusual shopping and dining experience has become so popular that the Northern Territory Convention Bureau recommends a beach banquet for corporate groups visiting Australia’s “Top End”.
BEST BUYS: The market’s real selling point is its authenticity. Small stalls offering local handicrafts (such as Territorian pottery), clothing (shorts, T-shirts and the like) and Aboriginal art. Often, the seller is also the item’s creator so you can strike up a conversation about what you buy and you won’t get a standard sales spiel. Prices are difficult to compare with other city outlets since many of the items here are not available elsewhere. Just remember to haggle with a smile.
GETTING THERE: The markets are just 20 minutes’ walk from the city centre. Alternatively,?shuttle buses pick up at a regular basis from the major hotels?and a taxi from the city will cost about A$10 (US$7). Public bus No. 4 connects the city directly to Mindil Market.
OPENING HOURS: From the last week in April until the end of October, the markets are open on Thursday between 1700 and 2200 and on Sundays between 1600 and 2100.
CONTACT: Mindil Beach Sunset Market Association, tel 61 8 8981 3454, www.mindil.com.au
Kenny Coyle
GREEN SPOT
Pokfulam Open-air Market, Hongkong
When they say “open-air market”, one tends to think of an entire street lined with vendors; an unorganised bunch, sitting on colourful mats, their goods laid out on tarmac and patrons haggling. The Pokfulam market is rather different in several interesting ways. First, you have to pay an entrance fee of HK$20 (US$2.60). If it were for any other reason, this would be daylight robbery – but you will be pleased to know that the proceeds go to a different charity every month.
Set on grass, the market appears roomy and encourages family fun. Kids can run around without the fear of them falling on a hard surface. The whole setting feels like a picnic in a park, except in this one no pets are allowed.
Unlike the usual flea market where the vendors are independent operators, this market also features some companies that would fit in nicely in a shopping mall – for example, Bookazine and Fat Angelo’s for Italian bites. To be honest, the setup does feel commercialised, but to its credit it makes finding what you want easier.
BEST BUYS: Thankfully, local designers, artists and growers add to the list of tenants and help differentiate a trip to the market from a walk in the mall. Admittedly, prices are not as low as you’d expect from a flea market but are still pretty reasonable. The range of items is wide and is certainly worth a look.
GETTING THERE: The bazaar is located in a prominent landmark called The Podium on Cyberport Road, so there should be no trouble finding your way via a cab. If you go by bus, take 49 from Hongkong MTR station or 73 from Stanley. Once you arrive, make your way to the outdoor area on level four.
OPENING HOURS: From 1000 to 1700. If weather permits, the market is open every third Sunday of the month, except during the summer months of June to August.
CONTACT: The Podium, 100 Cyberport Road, Hongkong, tel 852 2523 6835, www.openairhk.com
He Ruiming
FOOD GALORE
Salcedo Market, Manila
A paid parking lot (on weekdays) is transformed into a wet and dry market every Saturday. What started as a barangay (village) initiative to help small vendors sell their organic produce has blossomed into a diverse food bazaar selling regional delicacies as well as notable international cuisines. This marketplace has become a favourite haunt of Manila’s elite crowd, not to mention their tourist friends.
The market is inside the Jaime Velasquez Park that houses an outdoor playground and a jogging path. There is also a barangay outpost with a medical clinic that villagers can visit. Citizens are also welcome to pay their residence certificate known as cedula, at the market. Bathrooms are located near the playground.
BEST BUYS: With prices that are fairly reasonable compared to what’s in the malls, must-tries include grilled pork barbecue at Ineng’s, Cebu Lechon (flavourful roasted pig), purple rice suman at Budbud Gourmet Suman, Vietnamese spring rolls and a taste of French from La Cuisine Francaise – both husband (French) and wife (Filipino) are culinary professionals and are often seen personally selling their products.
GETTING THERE: Located at the heart of Makati’s financial district, the market is quite easy to find. It sits near the Makati Sports Club and is an easy walk from Ayala Avenue corner Paseo de Roxas. You can either take a cab straight to the location or get off the Insular Life Building along Ayala Avenue and ask around for directions.
OPENING HOURS: From 0700 to 1400 every Saturday.
CONTACT: LP Leviste Street, Salcedo Village, Makati, Manila, the Philippines, tel 63 2 899 6509.
Ma. Esther Salcedo-Posadas
ALL VINTAGE
Brooklyn Flea, New York
No, it’s not a new type of urban infestation – it’s the new and much-awaited answer to the prayers of many a New Yorker who pine for the long-lost Chelsea vintage outdoor markets that have gone the way of gentrification and yuppie-hood. Every Sunday since last April at Bishop Loughlin Memorial High School in Forte Greene, Brooklyn, around 200 vendors from New York, Pennsylvania and all over the region come to hawk their wares at the largest outdoor market in New York City. From vintage furniture to hard-to-find 1970s clothing labels, antique picture frames to rare music and art, the Brooklyn Flea is a must-do for locals and in-the-know visitors.
Just a subway ride from Manhattan, the founder of popular blog, www.brownstoner.com, has established New York’s most beloved flea market. There’s even a bike valet and a variety of food vendors to keep your energy up while you browse. Although the market has gotten some criticism for being over-curated, it also means the vendors are legit and you won’t be trolling through junk. The mix of antique and vintage vendors with up-and-coming hipster brands creates a diverse atmosphere with the opportunity for great finds.
BEST BUYS: Graphic tees from Junkprint and Loyalty & Blood, and jewellery and crafts from Etsy and Ericar Weiner are just a few of the goods on offer here. Vintage kimono shop Kimono Lily – previously only found on eBay – offers gorgeous, vintage silk kimonos, obis and wraps. Homewares by ama Home and My Little India may not be the cheapest around, but they are authentic and one-of-a-kind.
GETTING THERE: Take the subway A or C to Lafayette or G to Clinton/Washington.
OPENING HOURS: Every Sunday from 1000 to 1700, rain or shine. Close during the winter.
CONTACT: On Lafayette Avenue between Clermont and Vanderbilt Avenue, Fort Greene, Brooklyn, US, www.brownstoner.com/brooklynflea
Christina Kautzky
ART ZONE
MAAD, Singapore
Most flea markets either sell the same stuff that’s available at other markets, or are depressing car boot sales, where you can find the detritus of the 20th century – tired clothes, worn-out bags and barely functioning consumer electronics. But not at Singapore’s MAAD (Market of Artists and Designers), which aims to allow artists and designers to test out their products and ideas.
On the first weekend of every month, about 40 artists and designers come together to sell their work. On sale is an assortment of clothing, accessories, jewellery, art, leatherwork and so on. Just about everything sold at MAAD is unique because they are designed or made by the artist or designer selling it. The organisers, a company called Dry Run, ensure quality at the market by prohibiting the sale of second-hand goods and clothes or cheap imports.
To liven things up, Dry Run also invites people to perform at MAAD. Each performer gets a one-hour slot and they can recite poetry, do a book reading or play their own music.
The concentration of artists, designers and musicians at MAAD creates a fun and creative vibe. Overall, MAAD is a place for those with an eye for the interesting and the unusual.
BEST BUYS: At MAAD, almost everything is unique so it is impossible to compare prices with shops elsewhere. Keep an eye out for whatever catches your eye. Talk to the designer to learn more about each product. Some designers have gone on to start their own retail shop after their experience at MAAD, so this market is where you can spot Singapore’s up-and-coming names.
GETTING THERE: The nearest MRT Station is Tanjong Pagar on the East-West line. By taxi, ask to be alight at the old traffic police headquarters on Maxwell Road.
OPENING HOURS: From 1100 to 1900. Check the website for dates.
CONTACT: 28 Maxwell Road, red dot Traffic, Singapore 069120, tel 65 6534 7209, www.maad.sg
Jimmy Yap
