It’s not all beer gardens – this Bavarian city also has great food and fine art, all within an elegant cityscape, says Becky Ambury.
1 - Lenbachhaus
Start your tour at Lenbachhaus, an art gallery north-west of the centre. Originally built as a Florentine-style villa for painter Franz von Lenbach, it was acquired by the city in 1924 and opened as a museum in 1929. A gleaming modern wing has been added to the ochre villa, encapsulating a more widespread trend in Munich: the juxtaposition of old and new – a consequence of damage during World War II. Do take the time to view the artworks inside if you can. The main focus is artists associated with Munich – the Blue Rider permanent collection, featuring works by Franz Marc, Wassily Kandinsky and Alexej von Jawlensky, is a real treasure. Should you be peckish, the gallery’s Café Ella serves excellent Italian meals in a lovely light setting. lenbachhaus.de
2 - Pinakotheken
Walk towards Konigsplatz to continue to the impressive cultural hub that is the Pinakotheken area, a cluster of several different museums housing the Bavarian State Painting Collections. Be sure to pop into the Pinakothek der Moderne, a vast, striking contemporary building, where you’ll find four galleries: modern art, architecture, works on paper, and design (it houses the largest collection of industrial design in the world). Exhibitions change regularly, with an exploration of Paul Klee’s oeuvre “Construction of Mystery” currently running until June 10, 2018. Another highlight is the Alte Pinakothek – one of the oldest art galleries in the world, dating back to 1836 – which has a dazzling collection of works by Old Masters, such as Durer, Rubens and Monet. pinakothek.de
3 - Englischer Garten
If the sun is shining, whether it’s winter or summer, continue east to the Englischer Garten – one of the world’s largest urban parks. Runners, cyclists and walkers throng the 78km of paths that wind through the greenery, beside rivers and lakes. You can enjoy the views from the Monopteros, a circular colonnade with pillars that resembles a Greek temple. The turrets, towers and domes of the city’s older buildings (many of which were reconstructed after World War II) peep above the tree tops and make a particularly mesmerising spectacle at sunset. The park also offers ample opportunity for raising a stein of Munich’s most famous product: beer. Join the crowds in the huge beer garden at the Chinesischer Turm, an ornate folly. chinaturm.de
4 - Residenz Schatzkammer
Just south-west of the park is the city’s old town (altstadt), where you’ll come to Residenz Munchen. These striking buildings were formerly a palace, once the seat of government and home to Bavarian royalty from 1508 to 1918. While you’d be pushed to see all of the royal collections – there are ten courtyards and 130 rooms, plus gardens – the contents of the treasury in Residenz Schatzkammer are both manageable and riveting, with medieval crowns, swords and tiny, exquisitely crafted curiosities such as games sets. To get a true taste of Bavarian cuisine, nearby Spatenhaus an der Oper, just opposite the Bayerisches Nationaltheater, serves traditional dishes in a pristine period building replete with beautiful frescoes. residenz-muenchen.de; kuffler.de/en/restaurant/spatenhaus
5 - Viktualienmarkt
Head south towards Theatinerstrasse and continue past the Frauenkirche, a Gothic church with mighty domed towers. You’ll come to Marienplatz, a square in the centre of the altstadt. This is the location of the Neues Rathaus (new town hall), with its splendid glockenspiel; the old town hall, now home to a toy museum, is just east. Make your way south to the Viktualienmarkt. This daily market sells food, drink, flowers and more. Most eye-catching are the butchers’ shops with pigs heads, trotters and white sausage (weisswurst) piled in the windows. In summer, return north towards ritzy shopping street Maximilianstrasse and stop for a sundowner and 360-degree views at China Moon Roof Terrace at the Mandarin Oriental. mandarinoriental.com/munich
