Four hours in Paris: The Latin Quarter

This independent English-language bookshop at 37 Rue de la Bûcherie is a perfect introduction to the city’s Left Bank area, known for its literary heritage. Founded by the American George Whitman in 1951 in homage to the original shop owned by Sylvia Beach, it has become a haunt for literary expats and “tumbleweeds” – the nickname given to the 30,000 writers and artists who have stayed here overnight at no cost in exchange for reading a book a day, helping at the shop and writing a one-page autobiography. It’s a charming maze, with old wooden shelves stacked aplenty, quotes drawn from their pages plastered on the walls, and nooks and crannies for peaceful reading.

Head upstairs to check out the serene reading library, a piano (where Aggie the cat occasionally plays some keys), and a ‘Mirror of Love’ clad with messages from visiting bibliophiles. Plus, the shop holds free author talks, with previous guests including Zadie Smith and Michael Morpurgo. Purchase a book here, have it stamped by the bookshop as memorabilia, and begin your literary adventure at its adjoining café. After a difficult year of lockdowns, the shop launched a ‘Friends of Shakespeare and Company’ one-year membership – find out more at shakespeareandcompany.com

Turn left and head down Rue Saint-Jacques until you reach Rue des Ecoles. You’re now in the heart of the Latin Quarter, which draws its name from the use of the Latin language by students in the university district during the Middle Ages. The grand edifice facing you on the right is one of the majestic buildings of the prestigious Sorbonne university. The institution is the heir to the former University of Paris, a group of colleges set up in the 13th century which was dissolved after the events of May 1968. Two years later, 13 universities were created, including the Sorbonne (otherwise known as Paris IV).

Turn left into Rue de la Sorbonne, until you reach the plaza named after the university. Here you’ll find the 17th century domed Chapelle Sainte-Ursule de la Sorbonne or Sorbonne Chapel, a marvellous feat of architecture designed by Jacques Lemercier which houses the tomb of Cardinal Richelieu at its centre – the director of Sorbonne College from 1622. Ensure you view the chapel from the inner courtyard. Guided tours of the university cost €15 (£13) via [email protected]

Continue along Rue Saint-Jacques and Rue Victor Cousin, then turn left into Rue Soufflot and walk to the 18th century Panthéon, a striking colonnaded temple. It’s the resting place of Victor Hugo, Marie Curie, philosophers Rousseau and Voltaire, among others. Designed by architect Jacques-Germain Soufflot (hence the road name), the temple was inspired by its

namesake edifice in Rome. It is dedicated to Saint Geneviève, the patron saint of Paris. A permanent exhibition details the illustrious figures buried in the crypt. On November 30, legendary artist and entertainer Josephine Baker became the first black woman (and fifth woman) to be interred here. A health pass/vaccine passport is required to access the monument. Open 1000-1800 daily; tickets from €11.50 (£9.85). paris-pantheon.fr

At the other end of Rue Soufflot you’ll find Le Jardin du Luxembourg, the beautiful oasis of the Left Bank, built in 1612 for Queen of France Marie de’ Medici as a backdrop to the Palais du Luxembourg – now home to the Senate of the French Parliament. The design for the perfectly maintained and manicured 23 hectares was inspired by the Boboli Gardens in Florence, with features including orchards, a geometric-style forest, an orangerie, and more than 100 statues of famous figures dotted around.

At the centre lies a large octagonal pond (the grand bassin), teeming with wooden sailboats and surrounded by locals lounging on the city’s signature green metal chairs. There are kiosks selling snacks, drinks and ice-cream, as well as the occasional live music performance at the tree-shaded bandstand.

Your brain may need some fuel after so much cultural education, so head towards Saint Germain for lunch. Exit the gardens from the palace and walk up Rue de Tournon, taking a right into Rue des Quatre Vents and an immediate left down Rue Grégoire de Tours. Tucked away on this quiet street is the family-owned rustic trattoria Casa Bini, which serves authentically Italian dishes, such as carpaccio and fresh pasta (the langoustine and clam linguine is exquisite) on delicate plates with the restaurant’s name in cursive. For something French with a twist, head to Franco-Japanese Breizh Café on nearby Rue de l’Odéon for crêpes and Breton-style buckwheat galettes paired with cider; there are six other locations across Paris. casabini.fr; breizhcafe.com