Hannah Brandler meanders through the streets of one of London’s most scenic areas with its historic bridge, gardens, pubs and cafés.
1 - HAMMERSMITH BRIDGE
The striking 134-year-old green-painted suspension bridge is a landmark known to many in London, linking Hammersmith on the north side of the Thames with the leafy, suburban-like Barnes neighbourhood on the south side. The Grade-II listed structure made headlines across the world when it was abruptly closed in August 2020. It has had its fair share of issues since its debut in 1887, but after decades of unchecked corrosion it was feared it may collapse.
Thankfully this masterpiece of Victorian engineering, designed by Joseph Bazalgette, is now open to pedestrians and cyclists (and rowers beneath), although plans to reopen it to motorised traffic seem far off. This year the government announced a plan to stablise and restore the bridge. Meanwhile, walkers can enjoy its traffic-free beauty.
2 - RIVERSIDE STUDIOS
This popular arts centre located on the Thames Path (just right of the bridge) is one of the neighbourhood’s best spots for entertainment.
Originally a Victorian iron foundry, it was converted into a film studio in 1933 and later taken over by the BBC from 1954 until 1975, providing a set for early episodes of Doctor Who.
Since then, it has been under the management of a charitable trust which provides a diverse programme of events that has featured stars including Benjamin Zephaniah, Helen Mirren and Lenny Henry.
The centre reopened in 2019 following an extensive five-year refurbishment and now comprises two cinemas, state-of-the-art studios for theatre, dance, comedy, art and TV productions, and a riverside bar, kitchen and bakery.
3 - THE DOVE
Walk along Lower Mall past various riverside pubs; a stretch packed to the brim during the annual boat race between Cambridge and Oxford universities. You will soon reach Furnivall Gardens and a cobbled alley which connects to Upper Mall. Here you’ll find the historic pub The Dove – a favourite among locals. There has been a pub on the site since the 17th century, frequented by historic figures, including King Charles II and poet James Thomson who composed his song Rule Britannia here.
A framed list of patrons, including 21st century luminaries, hangs over the lower bar’s fireplace. Nab a table on its riverside terrace and duck under low beams to order pints. The pub also offers a full menu of signature dishes by chef Francis Crane crafted from local, seasonal produce.
4 - ST PETER’S SQUARE
Continue down the Upper Mall for seven minutes, passing by various rowing clubs, until you reach South Black Lion Lane. Take the underpass beneath the A4 to North Verbena Garden and turn left to reach the picturesque St Peter’s Square.
This beautiful green space was laid out in the 1820s and, unlike most garden squares of this kind across
London, it’s open to the public. Here you’ll find the bronze statue The Greek Runner by Sir William Blake at its centre, but the Grade-II listed stuccoed townhouses that surround the garden square are just as interesting.
Check out number 22, an architect’s studio that was once the headquarters of major record label Island Records and where musicians, including Cat Stevens, Bob Marley and U2, recorded. The square’s grandeur has lent itself to movie sets, with the 2006 biopic Miss Potter filmed here.
5 - THE ELDER PRESS CAFÉ
Return to South Black Lion Lane and stop for a bite to eat at The Elder Press Café, a lovely minimalist eatery with pastel-pink seating areas, an open kitchen, and a cosy garden courtyard. Its seasonally changing menu features dishes for breakfast, brunch and lunch, and its freshly baked cakes are recommended. The café draws inspiration from the area’s printing history (hence the name), and you can find out more about this heritage by walking along Hammersmith Terrace afterwards – a former hotspot of the Arts and Crafts movement. Blue plaques honour past residents and you can visit the home of typographer Emery Walker at number 7.
