Features

Ningbo: Port of call

30 Apr 2015 by Tamsin Cocks
First impressions Driving through Ningbo, you’re immediately struck by similarities with Western cities. Made up of wide, tree-lined boulevards spread over a large area, you could be in an American suburb rather than one of the world’s busiest ports and the birthplace of China’s Nationalist Party leader Chiang Kai-shek. We’ve come from the jammed streets of Shanghai, just a 100-minute bullet train ride away, and the abrupt change of pace is striking. Traffic moves easily in a city with a population of just under 6 million, the horizon is uncluttered and there’s a sense of calm. During the past decade, Ningbo has grown rapidly in economic strength. Benefitting from its close proximity to economic powerhouse Shanghai, fast-growing tourism and tech hub Hangzhou (the home of Alibaba), the city was ranked fifth in China’s Best Cities for Business 2014 by Forbes magazine. Together the cities of Ningbo, Shanghai and Hangzhou are known as China’s "Golden Industrial Triangle" and account for more than a fifth of the country’s GDP. Predominantly a manufacturing hub, information services and creative industries are also on the rise, thanks in part to a number of flourishing economic and business parks such as the wholly-foreign owned and operated Nordic Industrial Park (NIP) (No. 8 Jinchuan Road, 315221). Ningbo is also an important deep-sea port, which has been developed with hugely improved logistics, and massive chemical and foodstuff processing operations, making it a very real rival to Shanghai further up the east coast. But as well as being an economic powerhouse, the city of Ningbo has its sights set on developing tourism. As one of China’s oldest cities, dating back nearly 7,000 years, there are signs the city is well on its way to becoming the next Hangzhou for those looking for a luxurious, historic retreat. Located in Zhejiang Province on the south shore of Hangzhou Bay, the city boasts lush mountain scenery, hot springs, and the province’s largest freshwater lake – four times the size of Hangzhou’s famous West Lake. And in recent years, new developments by five-star hotels such as the Park Hyatt and private home builders have been quick to take advantage of the lake’s natural beauty. The city’s environment has also benefited from a focus on conservation and sustainability, and the urban landscape is more green than you come to expect in China.   Orientation By plane, Ningbo is easy to reach from other mainland cities and there are many direct flights from Asian destinations such as Hong Kong, Taiwan, South Korea and Singapore. The city’s newly upgraded rail infrastructure also means that nearby Chinese cities, such as Wenzhou, Nanjing and Hangzhou, are just minutes away via high-speed bullet trains. Or if you’re coming via car, Ningbo boasts the world’s longest sea-crossing bridge. Nine years in the making, the Hangzhou Bay Bridge opened in 2008 with six lanes in both directions providing direct access to Shanghai in two hours. On arrival in Ningbo you might be tempted by guidebooks that suggest cycling is a common way to get around. But judging by the time it takes to drive us from the railway station to the town centre (about 30 mins), this would seem an eccentric choice. Plus, the wide roads and sprawling nature of the city make Ningbo car-centric, despite numerous cycle lanes. So if you’re hoping to get out and explore without a car, you’ll need to learn about the bus system quickly (single fares are extremely reasonable, normally costing RMB2/US$0.30), or keep your eyes peeled for taxis. Luckily, they’re never in short supply. When faced with the 9,800 sq km sprawl of Ningbo, it can be a little tricky to know where to start. Many tourist sights are not in the centre but located in satellite towns far outside. So if you’ve got limited time, it’s best to focus your attentions on two areas: the historic port and central shopping area, and Dongqian Lake. These will give you a good sense of the city’s history and natural wonders.   What To Do Ningbo’s Old Bund As one of the first trading ports to open to European merchants back in the mid-19th century, Ningbo has its own Bund with historic British and Dutch-style buildings. Just ask the taxi driver to take you to "Laowaitan". The area was carefully redeveloped a decade ago and is the perfect place from which to take in the city centre on foot. As well as international styled pubs and bars, the cobbled streets are home to museums and historic architecture. At one end of the pedestrian wharf you’ll find the Ningbo Museum of Art, a modern landmark of the city with works from both home and abroad. (122 Renmin Road, +86 574 8764 3222. Opening hours: 9am-5pm Tues-Sun. Free admission). While at the other, there is a French Gothic-style Catholic Church built by the Portuguese in the 17th century. Sadly, a fire recently gutted the building but plans are underway to restore the interior to its former glory. From here you can walk to the city’s shopping heart, Tianyi Square. Just follow Renmin Road south until it turns into Jiangxia Jie , cross the river, turn right down Zhongshan East Road and you’ll see the square on your left. This shopping district is great for people watching. If you’ve still got time in your day, take a 10-minute taxi journey to Tianyi Pavilion, one of Ningbo's most popular attractions. Located near the city’s Moon Lake, it was built in 1561 and is said to be the oldest surviving library in China. It was founded by Ming official Fan Qin, whose collection dates back to the 11th century and includes woodblock and handwritten copies of the Confucian classics, and rare local histories. (5 Tianyi Road, +86 574 8729 3856: Opening hours: 8am-6pm; Tickets RMB30/US$5). Dongqian Lake Unlike the West Lake at Hangzhou, Dongqian lake is blissfully tourist-free. As a result you can really enjoy a day there and feel the stresses of modern China fall away. Nowhere is the city’s focus on conservation more visible than at Dongqian, where an immaculate cycle track circles its perimeter. There are newly built scenic stops, and the Mashan wetland centre is being developed to protect the local wildlife. The name of the river translates as "lake of money in the east". Legend has it that 2,500 years ago, the richest man in China lived there and when he ran out of space to store all his money, he kept it in the water. Dongqian is overlooked by the tea plantations of Mount Fuquan, and the best way to enjoy the lake’s rich scenery of Buddhist temples, ancient stone carvings and working fishing villages, is to hire a bike. If you are staying at a hotel on the lake, these will be available there. Or you can hire them from stands on the side of the road. A good place to start is the Xiaoputuo Scenic Spot on the causeway at the heart of the lake, where the Xiayu Temple is situated. After that, head out to the edge of the lake and cycle round through the picturesque village of Guojiashi, towards the Stone Sculpture Park of the southern Song dynasty (1127-1279). This breathtaking mainly-outdoor exhibition is not to be missed. For foreigners, the simplest way to visit the area is to take a taxi to the Park Hyatt hotel (around 45 mins/RMB70/US$11 from railway station), where you can hire bikes (free for the first hour, RMB30/US$5 per hour after) and maps of the area.   Where To Stay Shangri-La Situated in the heart of the city on the river, the 563-room Shangri-La Hotel is brilliantly placed for business and sightseeing. Just a 20-minute drive from the airport and within walking distance of Tianyi Square and the Old Bund, it’s a good option for those are new to town. Spa lovers will also welcome the high-end spa CHI, which offers treatments combining oriental and Western philosophies. Shangri-La Hotel, Ningbo, offers the largest meeting and banqueting facilities in the city, including a 2,000 sqm column-free Grand Ballroom and a purpose-built interview room. shangri-la.com/ningbo   Park Hyatt Just half an hour’s drive from the centre of Ningbo, this new property opened in 2012 and blends discreetly into its lakeside surroundings. Designed in the style of a traditional Chinese water village, there are 209 rooms including low-level, stand-alone villas with tiled, gabled roofs. Multiple open courtyards, ponds and gentle landscaping, all echo Chinese architectural principles and create an air of tranquility. However, the historic feel of the resort does not prevent this five-star hotel from providing high-end luxury. The stunning indoor swimming pool is a delight, with huge poolside beds and views out onto the lake. Rooms are designed with the sophisticated traveller in mind, with luxurious bathrooms, minimalist decor and large windows that make the most of the sensational location. ningbo.park.hyatt.com   Where To Eat And Unwind  Seafood is the staple food in Ningboand the local cuisine is known for its light, delicate flavours. However, the town’s mainly-Chinese language restaurant scene can be a little difficult to penetrate for foreign tourists. A good bet is to head to Feast Modern Restaurant for dinner. Located in a 200-year-old Qing Dynasty merchant house that has been totally renovated, the restaurant offers dishes from the local region. And while the menu is in Chinese, there are a lot of pictures. (87 Huaishu Road, +86 574 8735 1111; opening hours 10:30am-9pm). Or you could head for Grandma’s Kitchen. This popular Chinese chain serves up cheap and authentic Ningbonese specialities – again with helpful pictures. Aim to arrive after 7pm to avoid the queues. (Hebang Building, No 931, Tiantong North Road). For drinks, head back to Laowaitan for a choice of bars and pubs. The Studio bar and Bass Clef are popular options for live music, while The Shamrock Pub and Office Bar have sport channels, pool tables and bar snacks.
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