Features

Chengdu: Emerging giant

29 Aug 2013 by GrahamSmith
Chengdu is both panda playground and economic powerhouse, writes Alex Andersson Chengdu, the capital of China’s south-western Sichuan province, is making its mark on the global map for a number of reasons, all superlative. The city is home to the spiciest cuisine in China, as well as the Giant Panda – the rarest of all bears – and, more recently, the biggest building in the world. The now completed New Century Global Centre contains 1.76 million sqm of indoor space, tipping Dubai’s Burj Khalifa, which holds a mere 526,760 sqm. Poised to open to the public within the year, the mega-structure houses a central business district, a Mediterranean-style village, a 14-screen IMAX cinema, hotels, an ice rink and a shopping mall with major fashion brands. It’s also home to the Paradise Island Ocean Park, which comes complete with a 400-metre artificial beach, seawater, a pirate ship and, on the “horizon”, the world’s largest indoor LED screen – measuring 150 metres by 40 metres – which projects images of the sun and ocean that reflect the time of day. This indoor city exemplifies Chengdu’s key role in China’s relentless pursuit of greatness. In 2000, the Chinese government initiated an economic policy to develop its landlocked Western provinces, and Chengdu emerged as a natural focal point. Logistically, the 2,300-year-old city has been a centre for cross-country communication and transport since the days of the Silk Road, when it contributed spices, tea and silk brocade to the earliest intercontinental trade. This legacy remains apparent in modern Chengdu, where high-speed rail provides links to 34 major Chinese cities, a network of direct global air links is growing rapidly, and a sizeable outsourcing and communications industry dominates. Siemens, Motorola, Nokia and Ericsson are among the scores of international companies with a presence here. The 130 sq km Chengdu Hi-Tech Industrial Development Zone alone contains 33,237 companies, of which 87 are in the Fortune 500. But the city’s charm has not been entirely lost in the frenzy of development, and the teahouses, traditional opera theatres and ancient temples still stand their ground amidst the ever-expanding cityscape. The two-terminal Chengdu Shuangliu International airport is located 16km south-west of downtown and is relatively well equipped, with one of the runways able to (though yet to) land an A380. Last year, it handled 31.6 million passengers. A car ride to the city centre takes about 30 minutes, accounting for traffic – a factor that is unavoidable in Chengdu at most times of day. Navigating the city’s 2,129 sq km urban centre is not the easiest of tasks, especially for an outsider. If you can decipher the bus system’s labyrinthine network, you can get almost anywhere for RMB 2 (20p). There are also two subway lines currently in operation, and a number to follow, costing RMB 2-RMB 4 (20p-40p) for a ticket, which is generally faster and simpler than the bus. Taking a taxi is not extortionate, though you will be at the mercy of the traffic. Renting a car with a driver is a popular option, and can cost RMB 600-800 (£64-£85) a day. Most of the major hotels are located within the innermost First Ring Road. Along with the airport, the Tianfu district, which houses both the industrial park and New Century Global Centre, is also to the south, and is connected by the newly built Tianfu flyover. International hotel brands in the city include Kempinski, Crowne Plaza, Sheraton, Shangri-La and Intercontinental. Ritz-Carlton will be added to that list by the end of the year, as well as another Intercontinental property inside the New Century Global Centre. Temple House by Swire Hotels is due to open in the city by the end of next year.

Where to stay

Intercontinental Century City This 555-room property on Century City Boulevard is very grand, with high ceilings and a design inspired by the location. There are several food and drink options, and adjacent to the hotel is the Shunxin Old Tea House – the quality of the authentic food and nightly Sichuan opera performances, complete with the impressive traditional “face changing” sequence, makes it popular with locals. The property also has a well-equipped gym, spa and free wifi. ihg.com Sheraton Chengdu Lido The most central of the hotels mentioned here, Starwood’s 387-room offering is ideal for those who do not want to stray too far from their dwellings to be able to take in the city sights. Many temples, museums, shopping options and parks are located in the vicinity, and the property is right on the metro line. It has an indoor pool, fitness centre, spa, five food and drink outlets and extensive meeting facilities. starwoodhotels.com Shangri-La Idyllically located on the banks of the Jinjiang River – one of many stretches of water that meander through the city centre – this 593-room property resonates with the richness of Sichuan culture. The walls display the works of nine contemporary local artists, a nod to the city’s artistic legacy. Rooms are spacious, and facilities include a spa, fitness centre, indoor pool, tennis courts and three food and beverage outlets. shangri-la.com

Time-out tips

Chengdu Panda Research Base When in the giant bear’s domain, it is only right to engage in the pandemonium surrounding China’s national treasure, and this is the best place to do so. It’s just under an hour’s drive from the centre, in Chenghua district. Spend the morning viewing pandas of all shapes and sizes, who will mostly be munching bamboo and milling around their expansive enclosures. They are fed at 9.30am and are most active during the cooler, earlier part of the day. Open 8am-5.30pm; entry RMB 58 (£6). 1,375 Xiongmao (Panda) Avenue, Northern Suburb; panda.org.cn/english Zhao Jie Temple Although not the most central of Chengdu’s temples, Zhao Jie is not to be missed. It takes about an hour to get to but it’s worth it for the authenticity and absence of crowds. The centuries-old wooden structures are lined with neat shrubbery, with monks gently pacing around, and lingering plumes of incense in the air. Soak up the peacefulness and history of the place, and enjoy a brew in the teahouse. Open 8am-6pm. 333 Zhao Qing Lu, Qing Long Chang, Chenghua district Heming Teahouse Built in Renmin Park in the 1920s, this is the place to experience Old Chengdu, which was famed for its waterways, greenery and open-air tea-drinking culture. It is widely recognised that the custom of drinking tea, now so ingrained in China, originated in this city. Sit down in one of the bamboo chairs and enjoy the busy, chatty atmosphere. Open 11am-10pm Jinli Street The winding lanes and bustling promenades of this area have been rebuilt to resemble the trading and folk art streets of old West Sichuan. The vibe is still centred on commerce, with tourists the top target, and you’ll find plenty of teahouses, restaurants and bars, as well as vendors selling handicrafts and local specialities. The spicy Sichuan hotpot is a must in this part of the country, and Damiao Hotpot is Jinli Street’s hotpot hotspot. You may have to wait for a table, but you won’t mind once you receive the simmering bowl, full of soup peppered with red chillies. Simply order a variety of raw meat and vegetables, skewer and stick them in the fiery liquid to boil, which costs about RMB 115 (£12) per person. Damiao Hotpot open 9.30am-10pm. Courtyard 2/3, Jinli Phase 2, No 231, Wuhouci Street; tel +86 288 559 1111. Shu Feng Ya Yun Sichuan Opera A night at the opera in Chengdu involves sitting on rickety wooden chairs, sipping tea poured from a pot with a metre-long spout, and guffawing at slapstick comedy sketches. The nightly show at this opera house features shadow puppets, rapid mask changing, acrobatics and magic. 132 Qintai Road. For tickets (from RMB 200/£21) and show times call +86 288 611 1025 Bookworm Although primarily a café, this laid-back venue takes on more of a bar vibe after dinner. European and Chinese food is served, and a pint of beer costs RMB 40-50 (£4-£5). There’s often live music and on Friday there is a popular jazz night. You can also browse the extensive book collection. Open 9am-1am. Yulie East Road 2-7, Renmin South Road 28; tel +86 288 552 0177; chengdubookworm.com  
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