BACKGROUND
Celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay brings his successful Bread Street brand to Hong Kong, launching the British-European dining concept last month in the city’s entertainment district of Lan Kwai Fong. This restaurant represents Ramsay’s first venture in Asia.
THE RESTAURANT
The warehouse-style décor follows that of the London flagship designed by Russell Sage Studios – vintage furniture mixed with modern fittings, and the signature checkerboard tile floor is immediately recognisable. The entrance is found between Wyndham Street and D’Aguilar Street, so you either walk down the steps from the former or walk up from the latter. The first thing that greets you is the bar area, which has communal tables that aim to facilitate a social atmosphere. The dining area features a lot of banquette seating, with the big windows looking out to a Lan Kwai Fong buzzing with revellers at night.
THE FOOD
Head chef Gilles Bosquet trained in fine dining and has worked for Ramsay for many years, having opened Gordon Ramsay Doha and Opal by Gordon Ramsay, and it shows in the food even though it is packaged as casual dining. Many of the dishes served in the London restaurant can also be found here, although seasonings are sometimes adjusted for the market. An example is the tamarind spiced chicken wings with spring onions and coriander – the version here has a more distinct tart flavour from the fruit. It is spicier as well, so the wings are served on a bed of yogurt to soothe the heat. Initially I thought the sea bass carpaccio with avocado, horseradish and ginger was bland, but as I continued to eat the subtle sweetness of the fish emerged. The flat bread with caramelised onions, taleggio cheese, cured pig’s cheek and basil pesto had a nice kick, and was a hit at my table. I shared a few main courses with my group. The steamed snapper with braised leeks, clams, sea vegetables and shellfish dressing was flavoursome, but the fish itself was overcooked to my Chinese palate. The slow roasted Dingley Dell pork belly with spiced apple puree and apple relish was perfectly seasoned but the skin was a little too hard for my taste. The traditional shepherd’s pie with braised lamb, potato puree and brioche garlic crumbs was hearty and just the comfort food one would expect; while the côte de boeuf was perfectly grilled and paired divinely with the sides of spiced honey carrots, cream corn and hand cut chips. For dessert, the banana sticky toffee pudding with muscovado caramel and clotted cream was as sinful as it sounded. The big surprise was the pineapple carpaccio, passion fruit and coconut sorbet. I don’t usually like fruit but this combination worked really well and the hours-long caramelisation process brought out the best of the pineapple.
DRINKS
There is an extensive international wine list, including 21 choices by the glass. There are 12 listed cocktails, but the mixologist would surely be happy to whip up other concoctions.
VERDICT
The restaurant has hit all the right spots – the location is fantastic, the atmosphere is jovial and urbane, and the dishes range from delectable to delightful.
FACT FILE
- Opening hours Daily noon-11:30pm
- Prices Starters HK$98-HK$168 (US$13-US$22), mains HK$148-US$488 (US$19-US$63), desserts HK$78-HK$148 (US$10-US$19), sides HK$48-HK$68 (US$6-US$9). Wines from HK$75 (US$9.70) per glass. Cocktails from HK$98 (US$13)
- Contact Mezzanine Level, LKF Hotel, 33 Wyndham Street, Central, Hong Kong; +852 2230 1800; diningconcepts.com/breadstreetkitchenbar
