Features

Trail Mix

31 Mar 2009 by intern11

Forego the tour group and put on those trainers, the city is waiting to be discovered on its own terms. Peter Rajendran suggests some options

It may be your first time in a city. You’re intrigued by what’s beyond your hotel driveway. You’re eager to explore but aren’t sure you want to join a bunch of camera-clicking tourists herded around to gawp at the usual attractions.

The best way then to see your surroundings on their own terms is to lace up those trainers and take to the streets to experience the ebb and flow of daily life. At the same time, you get to squeeze in some much-needed exercise.

Fortunately, you needn’t work out alone these days. A number of operators are offering creative jogs in the company of enthusiastic guides, who know their neighbourhoods intimately, and what’s more, enjoy sharing a unique perspective of their hometown with people who are just as eager to learn about it.

HISTORY LESSON

Roxas Boulevard, Manila, Philippines

Start off from Traders Hotel on Roxas Boulevard. Begin jogging due north on the footpath along scenic Manila Bay (site of the Battle of Manila Bay between America and Spain, where Commodore George Dewey and his squadron on the USS Olympia captured the Spaniards’ entire Asian fleet with only one loss of life on the US side).

Try an evening run, especially during the summer months when it’s cooler, and you’ll find a number of joggers and cyclists out in full force, particularly on the weekends.

While on the waterfront, you’ll catch a glimpse of armoured tanks on display in the front lawn of the Philippine Navy Headquarters, adjacent the Manila Yacht Club, where spiffy tubs bob prettily in the water. Racing season in these parts kicks off usually after Easter with the President’s Cup Regatta, continuing until September.

Take note of the fortress-like Metropolitan Museum of Manila, across the road, which you may want to visit some time during your stay. Here, art buffs will find a rich showcase of contemporary Filipino visual gems to savour.

Located on the same row are the historic districts of Malate and Ermita, now dubbed as the city’s “bohemian quarter”, due to a cluster of atmospheric cafés and restaurants set in a rather seedy environment. Two centuries ago, the genteel neighbourhoods that sprung up by the waterfront were the heart and soul of pre-war Manila.

By this time, you should be evenly warmed up. The well-fortified US embassy appears on the left. Until electronic visa application came into use, long queues of locals eagerly wanting to gain entry into what continues to be their land of dreams were a common sight.

You’re now approaching Rizal Park, which, like Beijing’s Tiananmen Square, is always teeming with crowds, no matter what time of the day or night. And with good reason: the landscaped gardens, open-air performance venues, food kiosks and permanent exhibits and monuments – notably that of national hero Jose Rizal, who was executed by the Spaniards for advocating more Filipino representation in government – are constant magnets for the masses.

From here, cross over to Padre Burgos Road, noting the golf greens hugging the walls of the old Spanish settlement, Intramuros. (You don’t have to be a member to tee off.) This will lead into narrow streets lined with antique and handicraft shops and a few restaurants. Take a breather in front of the 15th-century San Agustin Church, one of the oldest Catholic churches in the Philippines.

Still on Padre Burgos, you’ll spot the back area of the Manila Cathedral. A victim of several natural calamities, the cathedral has been rebuilt many times. It’s still the favourite choice of many well-to-do families for their children’s weddings.

On the main thoroughfare in front of the Cathedral, Port Area Road, turn left, head for the Bonifacio monument roundabout and take a left again. A short distance and the famous Manila Hotel hoves into view. Built in 1909, it was the scene of much high-profile entertaining and served as General Douglas MacArthur’s unofficial headquarters on the eve of World War II. To commemorate his stay, the Presidential Suite has been named after him.

On your final stretch, which runs through Rizal Park again, you will come across the Quirino Grandstand where all Philippine presidents have been sworn in, and the late Pope John Paul II celebrated Mass on his two visits.

STARTING POINT: Traders Hotel, 3001 Roxas Boulevard, Pasay City 1305.

HOW TO GET THERE: All the cabbies know Traders Hotel. Don’t even think of using the public transport system – bus, Light Railway Transit or jeepney, unless accompanied by a Filipino friend. It is too complicated and takes too much time because of horrendous congestion.

DISTANCE: 5km.

TIME: 45 minutes.

A BIT OF COUNTRY

Hampstead, London, UK

Located north of London, Hampstead Heath and the nearby Highgate are known for a concentration of cosy pubs. But since you haven’t started your workout yet, it’s best to banish any thought of a swig of frothy ale.

A leisurely jog round this picturesque neighbourhood has to include the 936ha park.

Back in the 17th century, Hampstead became the refuge of the wealthy fleeing the plague of 1665. In the 18th century, it gained further favour when the local spring water proved to have healing properties. Many grand houses sprung up then. During the Second World War, Hampstead was badly bombed, but thanks to sensitive rebuilding, there remains much vintage architecture to admire along the way.

Your route takes you past a series of ponds and wooded areas, which provide picnickers and water birds alike places to roost. Look out for the parish boundary marker, “Saxon Ditch”, made up of ancient stones and trees thought to have been erected in AD 986. Now gear yourself to run up Parliament Hill. From here, the view of the London skyline with St Paul’s Cathedral so unmistakable is spectacular.

SRARTING POINT: The Flask pub, 14 Flask Walk, Hampstead.

HOW TO GET THERE: Get off at Hampstead tube station.

DISTANCE: About 3km.

TIME: Approximately 45 minutes.

GREEN HEART

Kuala Lumpur City Centre (KLCC), Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

In the heart of the swanky KLCC, crowned by the iconic Petronas Twin Towers, the 20ha park is a showcase of greenery in a sea of concrete.

Designed by the late Brazilian landscaper architect Roberto Burle Marx, it features a blend of flora, stone, wood and water elements creating a relaxing setting. About 1,900 different trees and 66 species of palms make up this mini-jungle.

To appreciate Marx’s efforts, and start up cardio activity gradually, begin at the crack of dawn with a slow jog around the 1.3km track. Then, the morning calls of migratory birds will be loudest as they flit through the various flower beds foraging for breakfast.

The trail takes you past the 10,000sqm Lake Symphony, which during certain hours daily presents impressive fountain displays soaring to heights of up to 42m and nearly 400 different patterns. Shows take place between noon and 2pm and between 6pm and 11pm, and between 10am and midnight on weekends and public holidays. Other attractions include waterfalls, cascades and a huge wading pool, with rest areas interspersed allowing rest stops for exhausted strollers and joggers.

A further 300m out of KLCC Park, towards Lorong Binjai, will take you towards the Masjid Asy Syakirin, a mosque described as the “Jewel in the Park”, and indeed it is, boasting intricate carvings and calligraphy by Uzbek craftsmen.

Take Jalan Lumba Kuda, leading to the entrance of the stylish Suria shopping mall, continuing past the Mandarin Oriental and the V-shaped Kuala Lumpur Convention Centre before re-entering the park, where a cool down stretch is strongly advised.

Heart pumping and oxygen flowing through the body will result in a natural high that should last you through your rigorous appointments for the rest of the day. Be careful though of local delicacies such as roti canai (bread served hot with curry) at the nearby coffeeshops. Indulge, but don’t overdo it.

STARTING POINT: KLCC Park, open daily from 7am to 10pm.

HOW TO GET THERE: Hop on the LRT and get off at the KLCC station.

DISTANCE: Approximately 2km.

TIME: 40 to 45 minutes.

CULTURE FIX

People’s Square, Shanghai, China

With a 20-million population and infuriating traffic congestion, Shanghai doesn’t appear to be a jogger’s mecca. However, try rising at the crack of dawn for a 6.30am run and be pleasantly surprised.

To get you started, Four Seasons Hotel Shanghai has put together a jogging programme, combining exercise and cultural appreciation.

“After 7.30am, the streets get crowded, especially on weekdays. As you know, China is the Kingdom of the bicycle,” says Billy Yin, hotel guest relations officer at the concierge desk.

The itinerary begins at the hotel, located at the intersection of Wei Hai Road and Shi Men Yi Road. You make your way toward the China Merchants Plaza South Tower and Huang Pi Road South. After a right turn, you will be passing the elegant Shanghai Museum on Renmin Avenue and the bustling People’s Square on the left.

Established in 1952, the museum has had many homes before finally settling in Renmin Avenue, where it’s been for 40 years. It boasts a stunning collection of ancient Chinese bronze, traditional paintings, calligraphy, jade objets d’art and furniture.

At this time of the morning, People’s Park is teeming with people (usually the elderly) going through their tai chi and other stretching rituals. Continue round the perimeter of People’s Park, along Xi Zang Zhong Road and you’ll spot the Shanghai Municipal Building and Shanghai Grand Theatre. This is a moderately short route but it jumpstarts your day perfectly.

STARTING POINT: Four Seasons Hotel, 500 Weihai Road.

HOW TO GET THERE: Get on the metro and take the number two line and alight at West Nanjing Road.

DISTANCE: Approximately 3km.

TIME: Approximately 30 minutes.

TWO IN ONE

Barcelona (day), Spain

Not only does it have a name synonymous with football, the city of Barcelona is also a canvas for many designers and architects, such as Antoni Gaudi, who’ve left their mark for people to admire over decades.

Sightjogging-Barcelona.com is an organisation that presents guided jogs to tourists or even business travellers on a company outing or on incentive programmes.

Soak in the Spanish cityscape and architecture by slipping on those sneakers. Guides will meet participants at their respective hotels and they will receive cereal bars as well as water bottles, and once again, it’s essential to look for an early start to beat the heat.

The route “From Mediaeval Times to Modernisme”, as the name suggests, will take you from Spanish historical monuments through its latter-day façade. First up, your guide will introduce the Museu d’Art Contemporani de Barcelona and he or she will be sure to disseminate a brief history on the origins of the museum championed by Alexandre Cirici Pellicer in 1959.

After discovering America, Christopher Columbus arrived in Spain in 1493 where some historians claim that he was born in Catalonia itself. Jog past the site at Placa de la Porta de Pau and probe your guide for his or her take on the seven-metre tall statue.

Next on the list, the trail takes you towards architectural wonders designed by the famous Antoni Gaudi. If you like art, marvel at an art form in the shape of buildings when you jog past the Casa Mila and the Casa Batllo, with its blend of old and modern designs evident in its futuristic chimneys and curvy exterior – both classified as Unesco World Heritage sites.

“You’ll have to stop from time to time at traffic lights in this quarter called Eixample, an extension with regular blocks of houses, so the route will last about an hour,” says Arnd Kruger, founder of Sightjogging-barcelona.com.

STARTING POINT: Your hotel where guides will pick you up.

DISTANCE: 8.5km.

TIME: One hour.

COST: E70 (US$94) for one runner or E35 (US$47) for a group of four.

Barcelona (night), Spain

“The Montjuic by Night” route’s introduction takes you past the International Exposition of 1929 where you’ll find the Placa d’Espanya, the venue for international commercial events like the Barcelona Trade Fair.

Right smack in the middle of the square, you’ll spot a fountain with a censer designed by architect Josep Maria Jujol, which is lit up on special occasions. You’ll also be running past the venue of the 1992 Olympic games, the pride and joy of Catalans all throughout the city. Take a look at the view from the Montjuic hill as you jog to a height of 200m, with the Montjuic castle being the highest point where, during the Spanish civil war and under the dark dictatorship of Francisco Franco, thousands of men were executed.

“What nobody knows is that from 1969 until 1975, the Montjuic hosted one of the most spectacular and dangerous F1 circuits,” says Arnd Kruger.

The view of the old harbour, the ferries and the specks of light illuminating the city will leave you in awe.

STARTING POINT: Your hotel.

DISTANCE: 11km.

TIME: One hour.

COST: E70 (US$94) for one runner or E35 (US$47) for a group of four.

THE UNEXPECTED

Tel Aviv, Israel

Israel hits the headlines for all the wrong reasons, but if anyone cares to dig deeper, they would discover restaurants serving fine cuisine, pristine beaches and Bauhaus architecture, especially in the capital Tel Aviv.

Run the City!, a company organising conceptual runs for tourists, aims to present an unexpected side of Tel Aviv. Accompanied by a personal guide, who meets customers in their hotels, the visitor is shown important landmarks and buildings during the jog. The activity is done according to the guest’s pace.

The “Urban Run” route seeks to provide a glimpse of Tel Aviv’s streetlife. It takes in the memorial of the late Itzhak Rabin, located at the spot he was assassinated, one of the city’s exclusive neighbourhoods and sites of modern architectural icons such as the Tel Aviv-Jaffo Court House, Tel Aviv Museum, Performing Arts Centre and Dizengoff Square. All the while, you’re tuned in to running commentary (provided) on the highlights of the run.

Natalie Grofman, founder of Run the City! says: “As the awareness towards a healthy lifestyle is growing and more and more people all over the world incorporate regular running or aerobic exercise into their daily routine, tourists and business people do not want to miss out on their work out while in a foreign city.”

The length of the run can vary according to your preference. At this point, choosing to go a little further will find yourself covering the famous Kikar Hamedina, “the ultimate circular shopping square for the well-off” and Sheinkin Street in the south.

The guide will also point out Bauhaus buildings belonging to the Unesco World Heritage list.

Besides the prominent structures, a run within the city will give you a quick cross section of the people of Tel Aviv, the Bohemians, businessmen, religious and non- religious and those out for a city stroll.

STARTING POINT: Your hotel.

DISTANCE: 6.5-8km.

TIME: One hour.

COST: US$70 for a personal guide or US$50 for up to four participants.

BIG APPLE MEANDER

New York City, US

Getting around the Big Apple can be quite a bother with the infamous gridlocks that the city is known for. But help is at hand. City Running Tours (www.cityrunningtours.com) specialises in, as its name suggests, running tours – of not just NYC but also Chicago, San Diego, Austin, Charleston and Washington, DC.

One of the more popular routes is  the “New York Run”, which takes runners through some iconic structures and several of the city’s popular districts.

After being picked up from your hotel, the journey begins with you and your guide crossing the Brooklyn Bridge. The suspension bridge opened in 1883 and has since formed an important piece of the famous New York skyline.

Continue on to Broadway and you’ll soon reach SoHo (“South of Houston Street”). This district boasts an array of shopping outlets ranging from street shops to high-end boutiques, as well as eateries, which, once you have completed your run, are worth patronising.

Next, you will pass by Mulberry Street, where the 200-year-old St Patrick’s Old Cathedral will make you stop for a break.

Then, as you run further, Little Italy comes into view. Here’s where a large Italian population resides and where you will find some street activity going on, such as hawkers selling sizzling sausages on large grills. Adding to the buzz is the lively restaurant and café scene. Return to hang out at places like Caffe Roma, Fornaio Ristorante and Pellegrino’s.

Once you’re on Mott Street, you will see another facet of multicultural NYC – Chinatown. Crates of fresh vegetables line the sidewalk at the Mott Street Farmers Market, while hordes of fresh meat and dry goods stalls attract many customers. So, be sure to meander your way through.

The running tour provides other optional add-ons including Times Square and Central Park, but at this point, you would have clocked in a pretty decent workout.

DISTANCE: 13km.

TIME: Approximately two hours.

COST: US$60 for a nearly 10km run with additional kilometres costing an extra US$6.

BOWEN ROAD, HONGKONG: GENTEEL NEIGHBOURHOOD

I shook off fatigue and lethargy one Sunday afternoon and donned my trainers for a jog around my neighbourhood on Bowen Road in  Mid-Levels. Instantly, I regretted not adding a windbreaker to the layer of clothing I’d put on for my run. It was December in Hongkong – a cool 15°C.

Too late to remedy the oversight, I executed a limbering exercise, which did little to warm up my icy cold hamstrings and calves, but there was no choice but to proceed.

The run, as I discovered, proved to be an eye-opener. Bowen Road has through the years gained notoriety of sorts despite being a genteel neighbourhood. Numerous fliers, slapped on lampposts and trees, are chilling reminders of dozens of canine poisoning incidents by the still-wanted “Bowen Road Dog Killer” – even former Hongkong governor Chris Patten’s Scottish terrier Whiskey was a victim. Word has it that despite a reward for the capture, the culprit has eluded arrest and sporadically continues to leave poisoned meat, for unwitting canines to consume. The posters urge owners to keep a tight leash on their precious ones during their walks.

From the Bowen Road Park, the trail descends past a huge Chinese mansion under renovation, said to be the former residence of the late Nina Wang, (Wang was one of Asia’s richest women, who bequeathed the property, along with millions of dollars, to feng shui master Tony Chan), the Seychelles consulate and Lover’s Stone Garden. The last structure attracted me to stop for a closer look at the intricately designed altars and door detailing.

Thanks to the pleasant weather, I was hardly sweating and now eager to pick up my pace and feel the full effects of the workout. The area was starting to fill up with fellow joggers, who put my simple outfit to shame with their sleek body-gear and stylish iPods. Families (and dogs) ambled along, relishing a rare time out together.

Then, the view. Halfway uphill, I rounded a bend to encounter a postcard of Hongkong – the Bank of China and International Finance Centre against the backdrop of the spectacular Victoria Harbour.

Towards the end of the trail, a throbbing ankle from an awkward step prompted me to take a seat in one of several exercise stations positioned at five-minute intervals along the path. Pressing a little further on, the Happy Valley racetrack came into view and the noise from the expressway below became more distinct, signalling a return to urbanisation.

STARTING POINT: West entrance of Bowen Road, Mid-Levels, Central.

HOW TO GET THERE: Take minibus number one from the Star Ferry Pier.

DISTANCE: 4km.

TIME: Approximately 45 minutes.


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