I'm learning the ancient wisdom of Ayurveda, meditating with yoga, and dining on light vegetarian dishes exquisitely flavoured with Indian herbs and spices. Later I will be taking a gentle swim under the watchful eye of a giant Buddha and then detoxing in a lemongrass-scented sauna, before being lulled into a state of utter bliss by a perfectly synchronised hot oil massage.
But I'm not in India, or Thailand, or anywhere else usually associated with Ayurvedic thinking. Instead, I'm at Parkschlosschen Bad Wildstein, a luxury retreat in the small Art Nouveau town of Traben-Trarbach, a 25-minute drive from Frankfurt Hahn airport.
Like the other 30 or so guests here, I'm here to take time out of the daily grind of modern life, to detox and de-stress, with the help of Ayurveda, a 5,000-year-old art of healing that focuses on detoxification, special herbal preparations, nutrition and harmonising oil massages.
Unlike hotels with spas offering a handful of watered-down Ayurvedic treatments, the Parkschlosschen takes this ancient science very seriously indeed. Experienced Ayurveda doctors, with a background in conventional medicine, are based full-time at the hotel and, after carrying out an initial medical diagnosis, will closely monitor guests throughout their stay.
Many stressed out executives come here for the 10-day Panchakarma, a hardcore detox therapy designed to cleanse, rejuvenate and revitalise the body. Others come for rehabilitation following serious illness or surgery, while some are simply looking for a peaceful place to take a bit of time out.
Some guests come with their partners, or with friends, but many come on their own; there is a male/female ratio of around 40:60. There are no children, smoking is limited to a small, uninviting room, and mobile phones are actively discouraged. Despite being in the heart of the Mosel wine region, no alcohol is served, (although staff confessed that occasionally guests lacking in willpower have been known to pop out for a quick bevvy at one of the nearby bars and restaurants).
There is no coffee or tea, except for Ayurvedic Kaphatee, a rather sweet herbal infusion. Instead a flask of hot water is placed outside your room each morning to be drunk throughout the day in order to help with the cleansing process.
Each night at dinner, guests are presented with their "schedule" for the next day, which usually includes a consultation with one of the doctors, yoga, and a massage or enema, with plenty of free time to swim, take a sauna, play tennis, or hike in the wooded hills behind the hotel.
I'm only here for a two-night taster designed for a stressed-out journalist, but it turns out I'm not as stressed as I thought. A reading of my "free radicals" on the first morning, taken from a drop of blood from my finger, reveals that I'm well within the "normal" range of 230-310. People suffering from a very high level of free radicals, or "oxidative stress" – which can be increased by mental strain and stress, alcohol and nicotine – have levels of 500 plus. Apparently journalists who have visited in the past have been known to have readings as high as 800. I'm feeling better already.
Next, it's off for my consultation with Dr Wachsmuth, who determines my Ayurvedic type, or dosha, by feeling my pulse and asking me a series of questions. Do I have dry or oily skin? Am I prone to weight gain? Do I prefer spicy, sweet or sour foods? Am I often impatient or frustrated? Do I have regular "elimination" or am I prone to constipation? And so on.
There are three doshas – Vata, Pitta and Kapha (see below) – and most people have a dominant type, but are generally a mixture of all three. My dominant dosha is Kapha, but Dr Wachsmuth detects an element of hidden Pitta, from my pulse and also from a certain "fire" in my eyes.
He recommends daily meditation and teaches me some deep and controlled breathing techniques. He also tells me to take regular exercise, eat less wheat, spice up my food with turmeric and "take time for joy".
Next stop is the surgery of Dr Zehringer, a sports and medical doctor who is a specialist on stress. In today's world, he believes, there is too much emphasis on professional performance. With deadlines, frequent travel through time zones, and constantly ringing mobiles, he believes the real luxuries of today are health, time, space and tranquility.
"People with very narrow and regular lives, like farmers or Italian villagers, have a much longer life expectancy than busy executives," he explains.
"I have people who come here burnt out from their busy lives, and who make life-changing decisions to swap it all for something less stressful."
But simple changes can make a difference. Drinking a glass of hot water first thing in the morning and before meals, taking just a few 30-minute sessions of exercise per week, and making lunch your main meal can all improve your health and help reduce stress. And frequent travellers have no excuses.
"You can do a work-out in your hotel room, or simply walk to your room instead of taking the elevator," says Zehringer. "People always say that they don't have the time, but that's just not true." In the world of Ayurveda, he continues, mealtimes should be cherished, not rushed, and a "working lunch" eaten at the desk should be avoided at all costs.
Diet and nutrition are a key part of the Parkschlosschen experience. All meals here start with a cleansing drink of hot water, cumin, ginger and turmeric. The main meal is taken at lunchtime and consists of four courses – salad, soup, main course and dessert – but the dessert is served first to aid digestion. All dishes are vegetarian and dairy-free, portions are small, and everything is chopped thoroughly, but thanks to the expert use of spices and herbs, you'll want to savour every mouthful.
Guests on the Panchakarma detox programme start each day with "ghee", clarified butter made by simmering unsalted butter in a large pot until all the water has boiled off and the protein has settled to the bottom. They eat in a separate breakfast room to avoid the risk of succumbing to the temptation to tuck into fruit, yoghurt and pastries. Both dining rooms, and indeed all public spaces and guest rooms, are decorated in pale greens, creams and peaches, all specifically designed to create the right calming environment. Interiors are made of natural materials, including pure wool carpets and pure silk wall coverings, and water is sourced from a local thermal spring.
The atmosphere throughout the hotel is slow, relaxing and peaceful. Surrounded by tall trees on all sides, you feel completely cut off from the outside world. This is particularly true of the tranquil basement spa area, where the treatments take place and where I was to enjoy two of the hotel's signature Ayurvedic offerings.
First was a Pizzichilli oil treatment, where two "technicians" – Margit and Colette – massaged my body, up and down several times for an hour, in perfect unison. Afterwards I was wrapped in a duvet with a hot-water bottle and left to fall asleep. Then, Colette returned to perform a Shirodara, slowly drizzling warm oil across my forehead, from the middle to the left and back, and then to the right and back, for 20 minutes. It was such a gentle but utterly blissful sensation, it put me into one of the most relaxed states I've ever experienced.
Whether or not you've got the willpower to do the full 10-day Panchakarma detox, even the most stressed out of business travellers cannot fail to feel the pressure melt away after a few days of gentle Ayurvedic living at Parkschlosschen – even if it all comes flooding back the moment you join the long check-in queues at Frankfurt Hahn.
Visit parkschloesschen.de for more details.
SYMPTOMS OF STRESS
- Interrupted sleep and insomnia
- Being withdrawn, tearful, irritable, irrational or short-tempered
- Missing deadlines and making mistakes at work
- Being late (or early)
- Calling in sick
- Slacking in personal appearance
- Weight loss or gain, or adopting unusual eating habits
- Stomach pains, headaches, muscle or joint aches, colds
- More serious medical conditions, including migraines, breathing problems, heart disease, high blood pressure, ulcers, depression, anxiety and phobias, dependancy on drugs or alcohol, nervous breakdowns, diabetes and some forms of cancer
BUSINESS TRAVEL TRAUMAS
According to the latest American Express Loves and Hates survey, which solicited the opinions of 500 European business travellers, 95 per cent say business travel is as stressful as, or more stressful than, it was a year ago.
84 per cent are most annoyed by flight delays and cancellations
74 per cent say they experience most stress before setting foot on a plane
69 per cent struggle with long check-in queues
49 per cent say trips make them tired
48 per cent find lack of legroom, or having the middle seat, the most annoying aspect of flying
45 per cent are irritated by not being able to easily change flight bookings
43 per cent say they start to feel stress before they reach the airport
43 per cent struggle to catch up with things back in the office
20 per cent object to chatty neighbours and noisy children
20 per cent resent having to travel outside business hours and not getting the time back
THE AYURVEDIC TYPES
VATA
Composite of air and ether, characterised by being erratic, cold, active, dry, clear and subtle.
Governs all movement in the mind and body; controls blood flow, elimination of wastes, beathing and the movement of thoughts.
PITTA
Composite of fire and water, characterised by being intense, hot, oily and sharp
Governs heat, metabolism, and transformation in the mind and body; controls how we digest food, metabolise our sensory perceptions, and discriminate between right and wrong.
KAPHA
Composite of water and earth; calm, heavy, cool and moist
Governs all structure and lubrication in the mind and body; controls weight, growth, lubrication for the joints and lungs, and the formation of nutritive fluids, blood, fat, muscles, bones, marrow and reproductive tissues.
GOLDEN AYURVEDIC RULES FOR A HEALTHY, STRESS-FREE LIFE
- Wake up early and do some suitable exercise and take several deep breaths to inhale Prana (fresh air and energy)
- Brisk walking is one of the best exercises, but exercise differs depending on your Ayurvedic type. Vata are more suited to slow, low-intensity exercise like yoga while Kapha needs vigorous exercise like running and weight-training
- Brush your teeth and clean your tongue
- Drink herbal tea
- Meditate
- Change your lifestyle according to the season
- Eat organic food
- Meals should, if possible, include all six tastes – bitter and astringent (salad), sour (salad dressing with lemon juice), salty and pungent (chicken seasoned with salt, pepper and curry powder), sweet (rice)
- Eat in a calm, pleasant atmosphere and think about what you are eating. Do not work, read or watch TV while you eat and sit down for meals
- Eat at the same time each day
- Chew food thoroughly
- Allow three to six hours between meals to digest the previous meal properly
- Sip water or juice with your meals, but drinks should not be ice-cold as this inhibits digestion. Ideally, drink hot water with ginger or cumin
- In the evenings, take only a light meal and avoid sour, dairy products, animal protein and raw ingredients
- Always relax for a few minutes after eating
