Vicki Williams escapes the frustrations of an extended airport transit period to explore Taipei’s many attractions
Being in transit in an airport for any considerable time is never fun, so why not step outside and explore? What follows are three possible itineraries for the next time you find yourself at Taiwan Taoyan International Airport with between seven and 12 hours to spare.
Free Tours
Sponsored by the Taiwan Tourism Bureau (http://eng.taiwan.net.tw) the airport conducts two half-day tours (morning or afternoon) for transit or transfer passengers who have a valid ROC visa or who come from countries eligible for visa-exempt entry. Passengers must have at least seven hours in transit to join.
Morning Tour
Airport-Sanxia and Zushi Temple-Yingge-Airport
The two main attractions in Sanxia are the Zushi Temple and Minquan Old Street. Originally built in 1769, the intricately carved and ornately decorated Zushi Temple has twice been resurrected and restored. The first time was in 1833 when an earthquake seriously damaged it and the second was in 1947 – restoration work is ongoing as most of the work is funded by private donations. Highlights include the many carved birds on both stone and bronze columns. Unlike many temples in Asia there is an opportunity to get close to the upper levels, which make for some great photo opportunities. Minquan Old Street is another fantastic place for photo enthusiasts, featuring cobblestone streets and shophouses defined by multiple brick archways, Baroque accents and ornate detailing. The street, which was once home to coffin shops, is now filled with outlets selling ceramics, homemade soaps and a range of inexpensive souvenirs, plus speciality food items.
Where to Eat: As you return to the airport by lunchtime I suggest buying two of the signature items of Minquan Old Street: pig’s blood cake – made from pig’s blood and sticky rice soaked in a pork soy broth, it has a jelly-like texture and is served on bamboo skewers or ice-cream sticks and coated with a spicy peanut mixture and coriander; and bull horn croissants – the Taiwanese version of the classic French pastry is decidedly sweeter and comes in a range of flavours including chocolate, banana and green tea.
For some the visit to pottery heaven Yingge will be a thrill, for others it may be boring, but it certainly beats the inside of an airport terminal. Boasting 200 years of history, Yingge is Taiwan’s pottery centre with most of the action taking place along Old Street, also known as Pottery Street. The attractively restored street is lined with ceramic shops and art galleries, some with hands-on classes, covering a price spectrum to suit all budgets; their wares do make a nice gift or souvenir. The tour also takes in the Ceramics Museum, which was opened in 2000. The modern, airy building is home to permanent and temporary exhibitions, a workshop, a gift shop and an outdoor area that is part park and part outdoor gallery. The museum is closed on the first Monday of the month and major public holidays.
Where to Eat: If shopping for ceramics is not your thing there are many restaurants along Old Street where you can enjoy a snack or something more substantial while taking in the ambience of the area, including the famous Grandma’s Sushi shop. For more choices visit http://yingge.ceramics.tpc.gov.tw
Afternoon Tour
Airport-Longshan
Temple-Presidential Office Building-Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall-Martyrs’ Shrine-Taipei 101-Airport
Longshan Temple is one of the oldest in Taipei and is considered a classic example of temple architecture. Originally built in 1738 by craftsmen from China’s Fujian province who had settled in the area, parts of the temple have been rebuilt over the years due to natural and man-made damage.
The Presidential Office Building is the next stop. Occupying a full city block, it took seven years to complete (1912-1919) and is known for its majestic symmetry and Baroque characteristics. As the name implies, it is the office of the president, and its central location means it is only a few blocks away from the Ximending shopping district (see 12-hour itinerary) and an even shorter walk to the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall.
This hall is an impressive landmark that honours the former ruler of the country, Chiang Kai-shek. It is one of the most visited sites in the city and is part of a larger complex that is also home to a memorial park, the vast Liberty Square, the National Theater and the National Concert Hall. The building features an octagonal blue glazed-tile roof that rises 76 metres, the combination of white (the body of the building), blue and red (surrounding flowers) echoing the colours of Taiwan’s flag. There are 89 steps (the age Chiang died) to the main entrance. Two features – a large bronze statue of Chiang and an elaborate caisson decorated with the Kuomintang emblem – dominate the interior. One of the most fascinating aspects for many visitors is the hourly changing of the two guards (representatives of the armed forces) who stand at the entrance doors on podiums. Like those outside Buckingham Palace they stand as erect and motionless as statues, their faces wearing the same stern expression for the duration of their shift. Many visitors like to have their photo taken with one of the guards and some do try to make them laugh, but linger too long and you will be moved away by security.
The final historic element to the trip is a visit to the National Revolutionary Martyrs’ Shrine. Dedicated to fallen war heroes, it was built in classical Ming dynasty style and also features an hourly changing of the guard ceremony.
The tour’s last stop takes you from history to modernity at Taipei 101 (www.taipei-101.com.tw). The one-time tallest building in the world, the towering block still holds the title of the world’s tallest “green building” at 101 floors and 508 metres. A city icon, it can be seen from almost every point in Taipei and also some distance from the city. Considered an engineering masterpiece, it is designed to withstand earthquakes and typhoons (the latter a regular occurrence each year). It contains the world’s largest tuned mass damper with a diameter of 5.5 metres, weighing 660 metric tons – it looks like a piece of modern art. The damper is suspended between the 87th and 92nd floors, and, through its pendulum swinging back and forth, has an integral role in keeping the building stable.
Taipei 101 is brimming with symbolic design touches, for example the curled ruyi figures that appear as a design motif. The ruyi is an ancient heavenly cloud symbol associated with healing, protection and fulfilment; each one on the exterior is more than eight metres tall. They also feature in the interior to reinforce the feng shui of the building. The lucky number eight is also prominent in the eight segments of the building, each with eight floors. The design also pays tribute to pagodas of ancient times. For the visitor there are two sources of appeal inside: a multi-level shopping centre, with restaurants and a food court… and the observatory on floors 89 (indoor) and 91 (outdoor). Both observation points offer 360-degree views of Taipei and the surrounding area. Inside there are points of interest displays accompanied by a recorded voice tour (in eight languages). The outside viewing area has a similar design to New York’s Empire State Building, which means that a more vertical (and perhaps more dramatic) view is achieved in the internal observatory. Tickets cost NT$400 (US$13); viewing is available from 9am to 10pm
Where to Eat: As time is tight on the Tourism Bureau’s tour I would suggest heading to the recently opened branch of legendary dumpling makers Din Tai Fung (www.dintaifung.com.tw) in Taipei 101. This restaurant chain really does make some of the best xiao long bao you will ever eat. Each dumpling is handmade and the selection ranges from the traditional to the daring, including a superb black truffle variety. All branches feature multilingual staff, who will talk you through the correct way to eat them without burning your mouth on the soup trapped inside the dumpling skin. The menu also features a selection of other tasty items, including seasonal vegetables and shrimp fried rice. It is said that part of the secret of the dumplings is the type of pigs used and the treatment of the meat, but this could be urban myth. There are now branches of Din Tai Fung throughout Asia, Australia and the US, but if what they say about the difference the pig makes to the end result is true, only those eaten in Taipei will be truly authentic. The original restaurant that first started serving the dumplings in 1974 is still open in the city, and one gets the impression that little has changed since – it’s not nearly as glamorous as the Taipei 101 branch, but equally busy.
TOUR DETAILS
The morning tour leaves Terminal 2 at 0800 and Terminal 1 at 0815, returning to the airport before 1300; the afternoon tour departs Terminal 2 at 1330 and Terminal 1 at 1345, returning to the airport before 1830. Both tours are conducted daily, but you are only allowed to choose one tour. You need to have a passport that is valid for at least six months and have completed the immigration embarkation/disembarkation card. The tours are available on a first-come first-served basis and are open to passengers over 18 years old. To register for the tour, head to the Tourist Service Center in the arrivals lobby. Luggage needs to be either checked through to final destination or stored at the airport. For more information on visa-exempt countries and applying for visa-exempt entry visit www.immigration.gov.tw
A Versatile 12 Hours
To start take a 45-minute taxi ride (approximately NT1,200/US$40) from the airport to Taipei 101 – not only are the views fantastic but it will give you a sense of where you are and where you will be heading. (See page 33 for details on the observatory levels.) Once you are done admiring the view and the engineering, head back down to the 86th floor for a bite to eat at Shin Yeh 101 (www.shinyeh.com.tw). The restaurant serves excellent Taiwanese cuisine in elegant surroundings, and if you’re lucky enough to score yourself a window table you will also get to admire more of the panorama afforded from this height.
The next must-see destination is neither an historic site nor modern wonder: it is a lifestyle store. Eslite is known locally and to those who have visited before as a bookstore, but it is much more than that. There are many branches scattered throughout the city, including one that is open 24 hours – perfect for visitors suffering from jet lag. However, from Taipei 101 there is a branch that is within walking distance (11 Songgao Road; tel +886 2 8789 3388 ext 3001). It is easy to spend several hours exploring the eight different levels and their offerings – it’s a great spot for picking up gifts for loved ones – but the main attraction is the book floors. Like many bookstores in the US, the idea is to explore books as if you were in a library; people are encouraged to select books and either take a seat on one of the many chairs, tables or even the floor, with no obligation to buy. The level above the magazine area has books classified under topic: philosophy, architecture, classic literature, etc, and there are many books in English. Also recommended is the music and video department for international sounds and a great selection of Asian movies, including those from famous directors such as Akira Kurosawa.
Where to Eat: If you are feeling peckish there is the chic Eslite Tea Room, which has a sophisticated, upmarket vibe serving single origin coffee, afternoon tea and other bites with smooth jazz and refined waiting staff. Afternoon tea starts at NT$450 (US$15).
From here, jump in a taxi to the National Palace Museum (www.npm.gov.tw) or Ximending shopping area – or both. Taxis are inexpensive and can be a good way to explore the city for those on a time crunch. Public transport to the museum requires a train and bus journey while Ximending is a train ride to Ximen station, exit 6.
The National Palace Museum contains more than 680,000 artefacts that were brought to Taipei when Chang Kai-shek and his supporters fled mainland China. The National Palace Museum collection was originally founded in 1925 in the Forbidden City in Beijing, moved to the hinterland in 1931 during the Sino-Japanese war, and shipped to Taipei in 1949… moving to its current home in 1965. It is the premier holding of Chinese art and culture in the world. Such an extensive pool of treasure means that you can make repeat visits to the museum and continually see something different. There are a few national treasures that are always on display and these often attract large crowds, meaning long queues, so those with limited time should try to avoid them and head to the galleries with fewer people, returning if and when the crowds have moved on. (On my last visit I was able to see all those and most of the other galleries in two hours by following this strategy.)
As with many museums audio guides in English are available for NT$100 (US$3.30), and there are also free guided tours in English at 10am and 3pm; basic printed guides are free. General admission is NT$160/US$5.30 (exhibition area 1 – the main building – is free on Saturdays from 6:30pm to 8:30pm) and opening hours vary depending on the exhibition area, but the museum itself is open from 8:30am to 6:30pm. Backpacks will be checked, and photography is not allowed. There is also a store for picking up gifts and books and an extensive garden area to be explored that costs NT$20 (US$0.66) or free with a museum ticket, open from 7am to 7pm.
Where to Eat: There are three options at the museum: Sanxitang Teahouse offers Chinese-style snacks and tea; Xianjufu Cafe serves western-style desserts and refreshments; and Silks Palace Restaurant serves Chinese cuisine in elegant surroundings – it is known for creating dishes based on the most famous imperial treasures.
Ximending is Taipei’s first – and largest – pedestrianised shopping area. A vibrant area where many younger locals hang out, it is home to a range of trendy fashion stores, bars, restaurants, snack vendors and cinemas. Venture further into the area and you’ll find some great local brand stores. My favourite find was graphic designer clothing store Graniph (www.graniph.tw) on Wuchang Street. The store is home to an eclectic range of T-shirts, jackets and jumpers with many featuring limited-edition designs at affordable prices.
No trip to Taipei is complete without visiting one of the city’s many night markets. One of the most well known is Shilin (metro station Jiantan). This is a good choice for the transit visitor as it is close to the freeway that leads to the airport. While many come to this market for its range of inexpensive clothing and shoe stores, the wide variety of street food is also a big attraction. Most of the food items cost between NT$30-$40 (US$1-$1.30) and the variety ranges from grilled corn and pizza slices for the timid to a selection of offal cooked in a flavoured broth and fermented (stinky) tofu for adventurous foodies. While some vendors attract long lines (a good sign), service is swift. Some have rudimentary seating arrangements but most of the items are meant to be eaten while wandering the streets. Aiyu jelly drink is also sold by many, but the best comes from WOW Frog eggs (look for the neon sign of the green frog) vendors. The drink is made from a mixture of jelly made from fig seeds combined with honeyed lemon juice and lots of ice, and makes a refreshing thirst quencher. A taxi from here to the airport will cost approximately NT$1,000 (US$33) and takes 30-40 minutes.
Afternoon Tour
Airport-Longshan
Temple-Presidential Office Building-Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall-Martyrs’ Shrine-Taipei 101-Airport
Longshan Temple is one of the oldest in Taipei and is considered a classic example of temple architecture. Originally built in 1738 by craftsmen from China’s Fujian province who had settled in the area, parts of the temple have been rebuilt over the years due to natural and man-made damage.
The Presidential Office Building is the next stop. Occupying a full city block, it took seven years to complete (1912-1919) and is known for its majestic symmetry and Baroque characteristics. As the name implies, it is the office of the president, and its central location means it is only a few blocks away from the Ximending shopping district (see 12-hour itinerary) and an even shorter walk to the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall.
This hall is an impressive landmark that honours the former ruler of the country, Chiang Kai-shek. It is one of the most visited sites in the city and is part of a larger complex that is also home to a memorial park, the vast Liberty Square, the National Theater and the National Concert Hall. The building features an octagonal blue glazed-tile roof that rises 76 metres, the combination of white (the body of the building), blue and red (surrounding flowers) echoing the colours of Taiwan’s flag. There are 89 steps (the age Chiang died) to the main entrance. Two features – a large bronze statue of Chiang and an elaborate caisson decorated with the Kuomintang emblem – dominate the interior. One of the most fascinating aspects for many visitors is the hourly changing of the two guards (representatives of the armed forces) who stand at the entrance doors on podiums. Like those outside Buckingham Palace they stand as erect and motionless as statues, their faces wearing the same stern expression for the duration of their shift. Many visitors like to have their photo taken with one of the guards and some do try to make them laugh, but linger too long and you will be moved away by security.
The final historic element to the trip is a visit to the National Revolutionary Martyrs’ Shrine. Dedicated to fallen war heroes, it was built in classical Ming dynasty style and also features an hourly changing of the guard ceremony.
The tour’s last stop takes you from history to modernity at Taipei 101 (www.taipei-101.com.tw). The one-time tallest building in the world, the towering block still holds the title of the world’s tallest “green building” at 101 floors and 508 metres. A city icon, it can be seen from almost every point in Taipei and also some distance from the city. Considered an engineering masterpiece, it is designed to withstand earthquakes and typhoons (the latter a regular occurrence each year). It contains the world’s largest tuned mass damper with a diameter of 5.5 metres, weighing 660 metric tons – it looks like a piece of modern art. The damper is suspended between the 87th and 92nd floors, and, through its pendulum swinging back and forth, has an integral role in keeping the building stable.
Taipei 101 is brimming with symbolic design touches, for example the curled ruyi figures that appear as a design motif. The ruyi is an ancient heavenly cloud symbol associated with healing, protection and fulfilment; each one on the exterior is more than eight metres tall. They also feature in the interior to reinforce the feng shui of the building. The lucky number eight is also prominent in the eight segments of the building, each with eight floors. The design also pays tribute to pagodas of ancient times. For the visitor there are two sources of appeal inside: a multi-level shopping centre, with restaurants and a food court… and the observatory on floors 89 (indoor) and 91 (outdoor). Both observation points offer 360-degree views of Taipei and the surrounding area. Inside there are points of interest displays accompanied by a recorded voice tour (in eight languages). The outside viewing area has a similar design to New York’s Empire State Building, which means that a more vertical (and perhaps more dramatic) view is achieved in the internal observatory. Tickets cost NT$400 (US$13); viewing is available from 9am to 10pm
Where to Eat: As time is tight on the Tourism Bureau’s tour I would suggest heading to the recently opened branch of legendary dumpling makers Din Tai Fung (www.dintaifung.com.tw) in Taipei 101. This restaurant chain really does make some of the best xiao long bao you will ever eat. Each dumpling is handmade and the selection ranges from the traditional to the daring, including a superb black truffle variety. All branches feature multilingual staff, who will talk you through the correct way to eat them without burning your mouth on the soup trapped inside the dumpling skin. The menu also features a selection of other tasty items, including seasonal vegetables and shrimp fried rice. It is said that part of the secret of the dumplings is the type of pigs used and the treatment of the meat, but this could be urban myth. There are now branches of Din Tai Fung throughout Asia, Australia and the US, but if what they say about the difference the pig makes to the end result is true, only those eaten in Taipei will be truly authentic. The original restaurant that first started serving the dumplings in 1974 is still open in the city, and one gets the impression that little has changed since – it’s not nearly as glamorous as the Taipei 101 branch, but equally busy.
TOUR DETAILS
The morning tour leaves Terminal 2 at 0800 and Terminal 1 at 0815, returning to the airport before 1300; the afternoon tour departs Terminal 2 at 1330 and Terminal 1 at 1345, returning to the airport before 1830. Both tours are conducted daily, but you are only allowed to choose one tour. You need to have a passport that is valid for at least six months and have completed the immigration embarkation/disembarkation card. The tours are available on a first-come first-served basis and are open to passengers over 18 years old. To register for the tour, head to the Tourist Service Center in the arrivals lobby. Luggage needs to be either checked through to final destination or stored at the airport. For more information on visa-exempt countries and applying for visa-exempt entry visit www.immigration.gov.tw
A Versatile 12 Hours
To start take a 45-minute taxi ride (approximately NT1,200/US$40) from the airport to Taipei 101 – not only are the views fantastic but it will give you a sense of where you are and where you will be heading. (See page 33 for details on the observatory levels.) Once you are done admiring the view and the engineering, head back down to the 86th floor for a bite to eat at Shin Yeh 101 (www.shinyeh.com.tw). The restaurant serves excellent Taiwanese cuisine in elegant surroundings, and if you’re lucky enough to score yourself a window table you will also get to admire more of the panorama afforded from this height.
The next must-see destination is neither an historic site nor modern wonder: it is a lifestyle store. Eslite is known locally and to those who have visited before as a bookstore, but it is much more than that. There are many branches scattered throughout the city, including one that is open 24 hours – perfect for visitors suffering from jet lag. However, from Taipei 101 there is a branch that is within walking distance (11 Songgao Road; tel +886 2 8789 3388 ext 3001). It is easy to spend several hours exploring the eight different levels and their offerings – it’s a great spot for picking up gifts for loved ones – but the main attraction is the book floors. Like many bookstores in the US, the idea is to explore books as if you were in a library; people are encouraged to select books and either take a seat on one of the many chairs, tables or even the floor, with no obligation to buy. The level above the magazine area has books classified under topic: philosophy, architecture, classic literature, etc, and there are many books in English. Also recommended is the music and video department for international sounds and a great selection of Asian movies, including those from famous directors such as Akira Kurosawa.
Where to Eat: If you are feeling peckish there is the chic Eslite Tea Room, which has a sophisticated, upmarket vibe serving single origin coffee, afternoon tea and other bites with smooth jazz and refined waiting staff. Afternoon tea starts at NT$450 (US$15).
From here, jump in a taxi to the National Palace Museum (www.npm.gov.tw) or Ximending shopping area – or both. Taxis are inexpensive and can be a good way to explore the city for those on a time crunch. Public transport to the museum requires a train and bus journey while Ximending is a train ride to Ximen station, exit 6.
The National Palace Museum contains more than 680,000 artefacts that were brought to Taipei when Chang Kai-shek and his supporters fled mainland China. The National Palace Museum collection was originally founded in 1925 in the Forbidden City in Beijing, moved to the hinterland in 1931 during the Sino-Japanese war, and shipped to Taipei in 1949… moving to its current home in 1965. It is the premier holding of Chinese art and culture in the world. Such an extensive pool of treasure means that you can make repeat visits to the museum and continually see something different. There are a few national treasures that are always on display and these often attract large crowds, meaning long queues, so those with limited time should try to avoid them and head to the galleries with fewer people, returning if and when the crowds have moved on. (On my last visit I was able to see all those and most of the other galleries in two hours by following this strategy.)
As with many museums audio guides in English are available for NT$100 (US$3.30), and there are also free guided tours in English at 10am and 3pm; basic printed guides are free. General admission is NT$160/US$5.30 (exhibition area 1 – the main building – is free on Saturdays from 6:30pm to 8:30pm) and opening hours vary depending on the exhibition area, but the museum itself is open from 8:30am to 6:30pm. Backpacks will be checked, and photography is not allowed. There is also a store for picking up gifts and books and an extensive garden area to be explored that costs NT$20 (US$0.66) or free with a museum ticket, open from 7am to 7pm.
Where to Eat: There are three options at the museum: Sanxitang Teahouse offers Chinese-style snacks and tea; Xianjufu Cafe serves western-style desserts and refreshments; and Silks Palace Restaurant serves Chinese cuisine in elegant surroundings – it is known for creating dishes based on the most famous imperial treasures.
Ximending is Taipei’s first – and largest – pedestrianised shopping area. A vibrant area where many younger locals hang out, it is home to a range of trendy fashion stores, bars, restaurants, snack vendors and cinemas. Venture further into the area and you’ll find some great local brand stores. My favourite find was graphic designer clothing store Graniph (www.graniph.tw) on Wuchang Street. The store is home to an eclectic range of T-shirts, jackets and jumpers with many featuring limited-edition designs at affordable prices.
No trip to Taipei is complete without visiting one of the city’s many night markets. One of the most well known is Shilin (metro station Jiantan). This is a good choice for the transit visitor as it is close to the freeway that leads to the airport. While many come to this market for its range of inexpensive clothing and shoe stores, the wide variety of street food is also a big attraction. Most of the food items cost between NT$30-$40 (US$1-$1.30) and the variety ranges from grilled corn and pizza slices for the timid to a selection of offal cooked in a flavoured broth and fermented (stinky) tofu for adventurous foodies. While some vendors attract long lines (a good sign), service is swift. Some have rudimentary seating arrangements but most of the items are meant to be eaten while wandering the streets. Aiyu jelly drink is also sold by many, but the best comes from WOW Frog eggs (look for the neon sign of the green frog) vendors. The drink is made from a mixture of jelly made from fig seeds combined with honeyed lemon juice and lots of ice, and makes a refreshing thirst quencher. A taxi from here to the airport will cost approximately NT$1,000 (US$33) and takes 30-40 minutes.
Hot Springs
Like Japan, Taiwan is known for its natural hot springs and there are over 100 hot spring areas in the country. Two of the more famous areas, both about one hour from Taipei, are Beitou and Wulai. Those at the former are cloudy due to the high sulphur content and as a result do have a certain smell, while those at Wulai are crystal clear and odourless. Each area has a range of private and public places for enjoying the waters. According to tradition you have to alternate between the hot spring and the cold pool at least three times to achieve the maximum health and skin benefits that the waters are said to bestow.
