Features

Think Tehran

31 Oct 2009 by intern22
Tehran, Iran

The view out of the window of a plane is usually the first exciting glimpse of a city. Tehran used to be no exception. One swept in over this huge city, heading for Mehrabad Airport, with the glorious Alborz mountains to the north of the city seeming to cast a protective arm around the capital.

Flying into Iran today is a different story. The old Mehrabad Airport is now used only for domestic services, while Imam Khomeini Airport, named after the founder of the Revolution, is the main gateway for international flights, but boasts none of the striking views of the old airport.

On leaving the terminal complex, visitors catch sight of the imposing Shahyad Tower, a long-standing symbol of Tehran. Built to commemorate the 2,500th anniversary of the Persian empire, it was renamed Azadi (Freedom) Tower after the Revolution. Today’s Tehran, however, is represented by the newly constructed Milad Tower, the world’s fourth tallest tower looming over a future leisure precinct that will consist of a plethora of restaurants, a five-star hotel, a convention centre and an IT park.

Iranians are justly proud of their history. Over 2,500 years ago, Greek historian Herodotus was so impressed by the Persian mounted postal couriers he observed during the war between the Greeks and Persians that he wrote this about them: “Neither snow nor rain nor heat nor gloom of night stays these couriers from the swift completion of their appointed rounds.” These words, now inscribed on the James Farley Post Office in New York City, have become the unofficial creed of the US Postal Service.

Iran boasts one of the world’s most ancient and fascinating cultures. But its image has come across as unremittingly grim over the past three decades, and judging by the unprecedented civilian unrest in Iran in recent months, potential travellers may be put off going there. In fact, Iran’s image is so distorted in the media that almost anything you know about it will need to be revised.

Yet, all places deserve a second look, and Iran should be top of the list. Those who bucked the scare stories in the last two decades since the end of the Iran-Iraq war have been rewarded by meeting some of the friendliest and most beguiling people in the world.

If the alternative history of Iran were to be written, the year 1966 would be worth a chapter unto itself. Two key things happened. First, a car produced by the Coventry-based Rootes group became the national car of Iran. At the same time, the Shah commissioned Victor Gruen, an American architect of Austrian origin, to draw up a comprehensive master plan for Tehran. Both would radically shape the city.

In the Shah’s heyday, when only the best from the West would do for his kingdom, he commissioned a masterplan from Gruen, whose claim to fame was pioneering the shopping mall. His legacy is still visible in Tehran’s endless highways that in many ways resemble Los Angeles, now home to more Iranians than any other place outside Iran. So Tehran’s very layout, as well as the cars on its roads, are a reminder of how close once upon a time Iran’s ties were with the UK and US. Relations that may be warming again, albeit in fits and starts.

It is important to remember that Iran’s economy and young population were ravaged by the war with Iraq. The story of the past two decades since the end of hostilities has been one of Iran trying to recover and regain a sense of confidence, under the weight of international sanctions, notably those imposed by the US. Tourism has yet to become a big industry, which is good for visitors, who will discover for now that they have many great historic sites and attractions all to themselves.

Tehran is a city of eight million people that balloons during the day to up to 12 million people. There are 22 districts and the commercial heart of the city, called the Bazaar, lies in the south. In the north, some neighbourhoods resemble Beverly Hills, with huge tower blocks rising one behind the other carpeting the hills. Here, land and property prices sometimes exceed those in the West.
Before the US sanctions and the controversy surrounding the nuclear question, Iran’s economy was beginning to grow and the Tehran Stock Exchange was performing well. Western companies were heading in greater numbers to Iran, while droves of Iranian expatriates and foreign-educated graduates were also returning to Iran. Now there has been a marked slowdown on all these fronts.

Some companies from France and Germany like Peugeot, Renault and Mercedes-Benz continue to invest in the country, having deep roots there. After the UAE and China, Germany is Iran’s third largest trading partner. Some 85 German companies are present in Iran and the German-Iranian Chamber of Commerce estimates that around 8,000 German firms conduct business through local partners.

Iran is the 18th largest country in the world with a large, highly literate and very young population, nearly 70 percent of which is under 35. In other words, Iran is a consumer heaven, a potentially massive market for business that’s expected to explode when relations with the west normalise. Currently, much of the ongoing trade passes through Dubai, and many of the well-known families in the Gulf countries trace their lineage to Iran.

Indeed, Iran’s Arab neighbours have long been aware of the goliath on their doorstep. There are large numbers of Iranians in Dubai working in many fields, with a significant amount of Iranian wealth invested in the city. Iran also has long-standing links with Asia, especially South Korea and China which supply the cars it uses. China has also grown into a major trading partner in oil and gas, consumer goods and heavy machinery.

Iran’s economy has weathered the recession because it has been isolated financially, but nevertheless, it has suffered a great deal of mismanagement, not helped by the fall in oil prices and the country’s segregation from the world stage. As a result, prices of basic commodities are high, and petrol, which was always cheap and the reason there were so many vehicles on the roads, has been rationed.

The tight gasoline supply, however, has not dimmed the Iranians’ passion for cars. Paykan (“arrow” in Persian) is the renamed version of the Hillman Hunter of British car manufacturer Rootes, which was shipped over lock, stock and barrel to Iran years ago. Through the Revolution and various national upheavals, it continued to be churned out, managing to keep the country on four wheels.

Maintaining production of the Paykan taught the Iranians how to build cars. Iran Khodro is the national automobile manufacturer. Its factory outside Tehran is the largest and most sophisticated, robotic car manufacturing plant in the Middle East, and one of the world’s 20 largest. It now makes homegrown models and exports to nearly 30 countries, besides running plants in four others. It produces about one million cars, buses and lorries a year.

To deal with Tehran’s notorious gridlocks, the police are said to have the world’s largest fleet of Mercedes-Benz cars.

Iran recently announced plans to build an Islamic Car by 2011, a venture with Turkey and Malaysia. And if you are a serious car enthusiast, or just curious to see an amazing collection, head for Karaj City, west of Tehran and visit the special museum housing hundreds of the late Shah’s vintage, sports cars and supercars. The Supercar Maserati 5000 GT was made to order for him.

Though Iran is by no means a poor nation, life for many ordinary Iranians is difficult. The state of the economy means the exchange rate is in favour of the visitor, who will find plenty of activities to occupy during downtime.

There are numerous world-class attractions to visit, including the Carpet Museum or any of the former Shah’s several palaces such as the Golestan Palace, which houses the Peacock Throne, while the Central Bank displays the dazzling imperial crown jewels.

One remarkable side effect, spawned by the Revolution, was the explosion of artistic expression.

On many nights, Tehran’s galleries and museums and hubs such as the House of Artists buzz with art show openings. A number of Iranian artists have found their works fetching huge prices on the international market, with Sotheby’s and Christie’s holding regular auctions of Iranian art. Après events, the intelligentsia moves on to haunts such as Café Naderi, which boasts over 5,000 Facebook fans.

On weekends – Thursday and Friday in Iran as with other Muslim countries – many Tehranis head for the hills. Some go hiking, while others take a gondola lift and head for Tochal, the world’s fifth highest ski resort. Iran boasts some of the finest skiing in the region, and today there are 12 ski resorts in Iran, but the most famous are Tochal, Dizin and Shemshak, all within one to three hours of Tehran.

Herodotus was known as the “Father of History” because he gathered facts systematically and tested their accuracy. So, be a modern Herodotus and admire the Persians like he did. Disregard the hype and misinformation collected over the years, and go discover Iran for yourself.

You’ll be in for many surprises.

Where to stay

Not all hotels in Tehran have entered the modern age; nevertheless, there is quite a range to choose from. Do not expect super-luxury western standards and most will only accept cash.

AZADI GRAND HOTEL

This is in the Evin part of Tehran. What’s going for it is a mountainside location and the cool air. The rooms are large and facilities include a pool, gym, business centre and an internet café.

www.azadigrandhotel.20m.com

ESCAN HOTEL

The 42-room property opened in May 2008 and features a restaurant, coffee shop and Wi-Fi internet access.

www.escanhotel.com

HOMA HOTEL

Previously the Sheraton, it has 912 contemporary rooms. Conveniently near the city centre.

www.homahotels.com

LALEH HOTEL

The former InterContinental is large and spacious, exuding a faded grandeur of the 1970s. It is often used by visiting journalists and is further down in the centre of the city, which is more prone to traffic congestion.

www.lalehhotel.com/pgs/en/aboutus.htm

ESTEGHLAL HOTEL

This is one of the large international hotels, classifying itself as five-star. The old wing is the former Hilton, while the new and more modern wing is right next door. It has a business centre, pool, gym and a wide variety of restaurants, cafés and shops on the premises.

www.esteghlalhotel.com

RAAMTIN RESIDENCE HOTEL

This 50-unit boutique hotel in the centre of Tehran offers complimentary Wi-Fi internet and DVD players and spacious desks in the rooms. Its restaurant Bistango is frequented by the well heeled. There’s a gym and sauna but no pool.

www.raamtinhotel.com

SERVICED APARTMENTS

Those on longer stays in Tehran can opt for serviced residences such as the Melal Hotel Group and Arian Apartment Hotel.

Dining around

Tehran boasts interesting restaurants serving the classic chelo kabab, a mainstay of Iranian cuisine, and many sonnati restaurants decorated in the traditional style. Try Hezardastan along Shahid Beheshti Avenue, just off Valiasr Avenue and Reyhoon, just off Africa Boulevard, is another gem. South of the city is Dizi Sara offering abgoosht (water meat). Café Naderi is a byword with the city’s art denizens and intelligentisia.

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