Although King Herod may have been an over-zealous workaholic – he was terrified that anyone would usurp him as King of the Jews, lest you forget – he did know a thing or two about booking a relaxing holiday. Under his weighty crown, Herod reputedly used to turn his back on the trials and tribulations of biblical Jerusalem and venture forth across the Dead Sea to Jordan to a secretive place for a spa, a soak and a soothing foot-rub.
Of course, tired tourist feet have long since padded round Petra, impatient heels have kick-started camels in the Lawrence of Arabia endorsed Wadi Rum, and toes have been stubbed on the salt-encrusted rocks of the Dead Sea. But – as one of Jordan’s most off the beaten track destinations – not as many feet have been salted and soothed under the raining medicinal waterfalls of Ma’In’s peerless hot springs.
Located 300m below sea level, and sheltered by sun-burnt rocks and rugged cliffs, the Ma’In Hot Springs host cascading waterfalls and a series of natural steaming-hot pools and geothermal baths.
Surviving holy wars and plagues of frogs, locusts and – no doubt – latter-day athlete’s foot outbreaks, the Ma’In Hot Springs are a historical testament to the power of the thermal water cure. While Herod perhaps used its mineral-rich waters to soften his scratchy beard and the great emperors of the Roman Empire travelled for miles by chariot to experience its health-restoring benefits, today’s visitors can be drenched by one of three gushing waterfalls, whilst baking in its thermal pools and natural cave saunas below. The gin-clear waters, which contain large amounts of hydrogen sulphide, can reach toe-wrinkly temperatures of up to 60 degrees Celsius and feed straight into the nearby Dead Sea, itself only a catapult shot away.
As for the Dead Sea, despite its long history as a great escape for the rich and famous of the Levant, it hasn’t lost any of its centuries-old magnetism.
Now home to a stylish Mövenpick Hotel and the luxuriant Kempinski Hotel Ishtar Dead Sea, the electric blue water and sun-pickled salt flavour of its invigorating waters remain as popular as ever with tour groups and for good reason too. Floating like a king – as though on an invisible inflatable throne – no place on earth can replicate its briny cobalt charms.
Further inland, and set like an oasis amidst this brackish landscape, the Evason Ma’In Hot Springs and Six Senses Spa, which recently opened at the thermal waterfalls, is an organic haven where mud baths and fresh salted lobster are now de rigeur. Following the success of its sister Six Senses Hideaway Zighy Bay in northern Oman, the five-star retreat is pampering guests and businessmen worn out by last year’s recession (not that the early Christians ever had a credit crunch to fret over).
Surely, it’s the most luxurious way to see the cradle of civilisation? It’s worthwhile remembering, however, that to respect local Muslim tradition, visitors should leave the dental floss bikini and skin-tight swimming trunks at home. Not that you’d admit to wearing the latter anyway.
GETTING THERE
The Dead Sea and Ma’In Hot Springs are a 60-minute drive from Amman’s Queen Alia International Airport.
The Evason Ma’In Hot Springs (www.sixsenses.com/evason-ma-in) and Kempinski Hotel Ishtar Dead Sea (www.kempinski.com/deadsea) are the area’s two premier hotels and offer a variety of packages and spa treatments.
