Duncan Forgan reveals 10 great experiences in Hanoi, Danang and Ho Chi Minh City
Vietnam is a country that lends itself to epics. Snaking down sinuously from the Chinese border to the Gulf of Thailand, its natural tapestry of towering peaks, emerald-green paddies and seemingly endless white-sand beaches offers enough material to inspire even the most jaded traveller. Its long and frequently fractious history, meanwhile, follows a twisting plotline that makes The Godfather trilogy look like an exercise in tame, predictable economy.
Vietnam is not the first country to have a fairly marked divide between its constituent parts, but it is not just the north and the south that differ. The central regions, too, are unique with their own dialects, cuisines and customs. You don’t have to look hard to notice the difference between the three regions and their major urban centres – Hanoi, Danang and Ho Chi Minh City.
The capital, Hanoi, is something of a grand dame with emerald lakes and historic buildings rubbing shoulders with bustling markets. Coastal Danang, meanwhile, is booming but retains a laid-back atmosphere. Business travellers will feel most at home in Ho Chi Minh City – Vietnam’s economic hub is also its most Westernised city with an entertainment and restaurant scene to rival the best in Asia.
The following are 10 things you can do to fully experience each city.
HANOI
Hanoians are among the proudest people in an already fervently nationalistic country, and it’s easy to see why. Vietnam’s capital is a beguiling blend of ancient traditions, colonial charm and breakneck modernisation. For the visitor, the first experience of the city will likely be in its main tourist draw card – the Old Quarter. Here the legacy of centuries of commerce can be charted amidst labyrinthine streets and tiny alleyways.
Hanoi, however, is not just about classic images of old Asia. You’ll find classy lounges that wouldn’t be out of place in any modern metropolis, and bohemian hangouts where locals, foreign residents and visitors alike gather to soak up the atmosphere. The city’s street food, meanwhile, is justly renowned, while its restaurants run the gamut from palatial palaces of gourmet pleasures to simple one-dish eateries where you can fill up for peanuts.
Cinematheque: The city’s multiplexes may not deviate much from the blockbuster formula but this art-house cinema offers welcome relief from the mainstream. A Hanoi institution, the venue is run on a members-only basis but since a yearly membership only costs around 200,000 dong (under US$10) it’s easy enough for visiting guests to gain access to the varied programme of films. Choices are eclectic, so expect anything from contemporary documentaries to seasons celebrating the work of master Italian filmmakers such as Roberto Rossellini and Federico Fellini.
22A Hai Ba Trung, tel +84 4 3936 2468.
Halia Hanoi: While you wouldn’t quite rank Hanoi’s fine-dining scene as international class, there’s certainly a growing contingent of highly laudable restaurants. Halia Hanoi is one such venue, having won a string of accolades and a loyal audience since opening two years back. Fusion is the prevalent ethos here, with fresh Asian ingredients and marinating techniques utilised with flair and attention to detail that wouldn’t be out of place in Paris.
83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Pacific Place Courtyard, tel +84 4 3946 0121, www.halia.com.sg
Vietnam Museum of Ethnology: Uncle Ho’s mausoleum may draw more tourists, but when it comes to investigating Vietnam’s rich tapestry of cultures this excellent museum is hard to beat. The country has around 54 ethnic minority groups – mostly in the mountain regions – but many visitors are unaware of its diversity. In contrast to other museums in Vietnam, most of which are either somewhat skewed due to political expedience or offer little or no meaningful insight, this one details its subject matter intelligently through a range of media including videos and photography as well as costumes, tools, implements and arts and crafts.
Nguyen Van Huyen Road, Cau Giay Street, tel +84 4 3756 2193, www.vme.org.vn
CAMA ATK Bar: The CAMA guys have been providing righteous light in the general murk that is Vietnam’s leftfield music scene for over five years. The independent promoters have brought over 50 international acts to the country since starting out and this, their latest venue, has been drawing in the city’s music lovers with its eclectic programme of live acts and DJs. The bar itself, with its range of potent cocktails and local and imported beers, is a convivial place even when there’s nothing on.
73 Mai Hac De, www.cama-atk.com
Hanoi Social Club: Café culture is as prevalent here as it is elsewhere in Vietnam, but this is the place where the city’s hipsters get their caffeine fix. Tucked away down a quiet street, this relaxed haven would sit just as comfortably in the bohemian areas of Melbourne, London or New York as it does in Hanoi. During the day it draws laptop-toting entrepreneurs and coffee junkies, while live music and periodic food events liven up proceedings in the evenings.
6 Hoi Vu, tel +84 4 3938 2117.
True Colours Street Food Tour: The dining possibilities may be endless in Hanoi but most visitors don’t even scratch the surface of the city’s options for chowing down. That’s why Daniel Hoyer is such a Godsend. A well-regarded chef in Hanoi, he knows the capital’s mind-boggling street food culture as intimately as anyone, and his recently minted full- and half-day tours introduce participants to an array of mouth-watering fare they wouldn’t have a hope of finding on their own.
18 Hang Be, tel +84 9 1223 3966.
Hanoi Rock City: Hanoi is generally deemed to be cooler than rival cities farther south, and this venue provides further compelling evidence in support of that assertion. Outside, a giant English-style beer garden – complete with giant screen for big sporting events – is packed with revellers most evenings. The upstairs space, meanwhile, is dedicated to all things musical, with live bands and DJs rocking the house on a regular basis.
27/52 To Ngoc Van, tel +84 163 316 6170, www.hanoirockcity.com
Tadioto: Another venue that marks Hanoi out as artier than anywhere else in Vietnam, Tadioto, is back up and running again at a new address after a short hiatus. The brainchild of poet, scriptwriter, journalist and all-round Renaissance man Nguyen Qui Duc, the venue serves as a gathering point for the city’s creative and intellectual set. While most easily described as a bar, it is also an all-purpose forum for the arts with regular literary readings, installations, live music and exhibitions. 12 Truong Han Sieu, tel +84 4 3826 8094.
Hanoi Sofitel Plaza: Previously looked upon as the poor sister of Hanoi’s two Sofitel-owned properties (hardly surprising when the other is the revered Metropole Hotel), the Sofitel Plaza relaunched in April this year following a major refurbishment. Renowned architect Victor Loh of Singaporean firm DP Design masterminded the hotel’s new look, and the result is an appealing blend of Oriental charm and contemporary elegance. Major attractions for visitors include the dim sum buffet at the hotel’s Chinese restaurant Ming, and the lofty Summit Lounge bar on the hotel’s 20th floor.
1 Thanh Nien Road, tel +84 4 3823 8888, www.sofitel.com
Pots and Pans: Progression is the byword at this new restaurant. Founded by graduates from KOTO – a Hanoi restaurant that works to train disadvantaged street children in hospitality skills – it is already making a name for itself as a great dining venue. The food, a creative melding of local fresh produce with international cooking techniques and presentation, is proof of the concept’s success. Dishes such as pork hock croquettes and Australian beef rolled in betel leaf prove that “fusion” need not be a dirty word.
57 Bui Thi Xuan Street, tel +84 4 3944 0204, www.potsnpans.vn
DANANG
Perhaps more than any of Vietnam’s urban centres, Danang brims with potential. The city was the preferred base for US soldiers when they required R&R during the Vietnam-US War, and a profusion of new hotels on its famous My Khe Beach is opening it up to a new generation of business and leisure travellers.
Traditionally low key, the city is now blessed with a relatively strong selection of dining options, while its nightlife can also be pleasantly lively. Other strong draws include the surrounding scenery – Son Tra Peninsula, the Hai Van Pass, Cham Island and China Beach are among the most alluring attractions in Vietnam – the presence of two top-class golf courses nearby, and the UNESCO-listed ancient town of Hoi An, a 40-minute taxi ride away.
Museum of Cham Sculpture: Danang is more about leisure than learning, but this decent museum offers a modicum of cultural diversion. The kingdom of Champa once encompassed all of central Vietnam and the beautiful buildings here house a comprehensive collection of Cham artefacts. Founded in 1915 by the École Française d’Extrême Orient, it has more than 300 pieces on display, including altars, lingams, garudas, apsaras, and images of Shiva, Brahma and Vishnu – all dating from the 5th to 15th centuries. 1 Truong Nu Vuong Street, Danang, tel +84 511 347 0114.
Waterfront: Danang is changing fast and venues such as this are signposts to a more sophisticated future. The Australian-run Waterfront is fully deserving of its status as the place to be seen in the centre of the city, with fine bistro fare and great drinks combining with a sparkling riverside setting to create an appealing whole. There’s a paucity of non-Vietnamese eating options in the city, but the food at Waterfront is good enough to quell an appetite for variety. Western and Vietnamese sharing plates make good accompaniments to wine and cocktails, while dishes such as twice-cooked pork belly with star anise and orange sauce up the ante further.
150-152 Bach Dang Street, Danang, tel +84 511 384 3373, www.waterfrontdanang.com
Danang Golf Club: Although it still lags behind Thailand, Vietnam is emerging as a serious golf destination and the courses near Danang are a major reason for this. The two tracks – Montgomerie Links, designed by Scottish Ryder Cup legend Colin Montgomerie, is the other – are both world class, but the Dunes course at Danang Golf Club just edges it. Winding through dunes and casuarina trees, the Greg Norman-designed course is both a fabulous test and a visual feast. The standout hole is the 16th, a short par-3 played towards the ocean. Tel +84 511 3958 111, www.dananggolfclub.com
Morning Glory Cooking School: If you are looking to earn your Vietnamese cooking stripes, here is a good place to start. Hoi An is regarded by many as the number one foodie town in a country obsessed with eating, and Morning Glory is one of its best eateries. The restaurant’s sophisticated take on street food is the basis for cookery classes; with guidance from Ms Vy, participants learn about the vegetables and herbs used in the cuisine, and how to create the dishes themselves. 106 Nguyen Thai Hoc Street, Hoi An, tel +84 510 241 555, www.restaurant-hoian.com
Cham Island Tours: One of Danang’s greatest assets is its proximity to some of Vietnam’s best beaches and coastal attractions. Its own stretch of China Beach (known as My Khe) is hardly shabby but for truly blissful beaches a day trip to Cham Island is highly recommended. With its mountainous, jungle-draped interior pouring down to coconut-backed slivers of white sand, Cham is a photofit of a typical Southeast Asian paradise island but, surprisingly, remains undeveloped apart from a few basic guesthouses and restaurants. Several companies organise tours to the island. One of the longest established is Cham Island Diving, tel +84 510 391 0782, www.chamislanddiving.com
Danang Sun Peninsula Resort: While most of the new hotels in and around Danang are bunched along China Beach, this spanking new resort takes a different tack. Developers have mystifyingly neglected the Son Tra Peninsula, with its beautiful beaches, rugged headlands and misty mountains – until now. Purists might bemoan the encroachment of an international brand but InterContinental have done a very good – and sensitive – job here. Beachfront villas come equipped with their own pools, while the fine-dining Le Mansion restaurant offers a range of gastronomic delights and is open to non-guests. Tel +84 511 393 8888, www.ichotelsgroup.com
Bana Hill Station: When things get too hot and steamy down in Danang, this former French hill station is the place to come. As you climb the winding road up the mountain you can feel the temperature and humidity slipping away. The panoramas are as revitalising as the drop in heat, with mountain tracks leading to a variety of waterfalls and viewpoints. There’s been a profusion of karaoke bars and litter in recent times, but they haven’t yet ruined the destination’s intrinsic charm.
Red Sky Bar and Restaurant: Danang may not have an amazing selection of Western restaurants but the ones that are there do their job with more than a little flair. Unlike many of the “cover all the bases” dining venues in Vietnam, Red Sky limits itself to just a few dishes. The economical approach pays dividends with creations such as mushroom ravioli and a juicy pork chop providing comforting ballast. The venue doubles up as a bar that, while nowhere near as lively as those in Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City, ensures that the good times can continue after the meal is finished. 248 Tran Phu Street, tel +84 511 389 4895.
Looking Glass Jeep Tours: For many, central Vietnam remains synonymous with the war with America, and the US Army jeeps used by Looking Glass on their tours are a vivid reminder of those days. The tours, however, encompass a wealth of natural and heritage attractions and are not just focused on the events of the 1960s and 70s. A range of trips can be arranged including transfers to Hué, Hoi An and Quy Nhon. Stops include Ca Tu ethnic minority villages, Cham sites and natural springs. 38 An Thuong Street, tel +84 1 229 788 981, www.lookingglassjeeptours.com
Easy Rider Day Tour: Getting on the back of a motorbike driven by one of Vietnam’s many Easy Riders is one of the most popular adventures in the country. Most visitors take a multiple day trip but plenty of thrills can be had over the course of a single day. The riders are very flexible so it’s up to you what you want to investigate. Major sites of interest around Danang include the Marble Mountains and the Cham ruins at My Son. The ride over the Hai Van Pass towards Hué, meanwhile, offers some of the most stirring scenery in the country.
Tel +84 906 500 129.
HO CHI MINH CITY
Ho Chi Minh City, or Saigon as it is still commonly called, is a city on the up. Once known as the Paris of the Orient due to its stately tree-lined boulevards and the French influence on its buildings, Saigon has metamorphosed from a sleepy outpost of empire to a thoroughly modern metropolis of nigh on 10 million souls. Indeed, the cityscape is altering at a pace that would shame the most reckless of motorcycle taxi drivers.
Business towers, office blocks, glitzy shopping malls, high-end real-estate developments, urban regeneration projects, visually stunning new bridges… you name it, Ho Chi Minh City has got it and is about to get much more of it. While all this progress is dizzying, life is never dull when you are in the thick of it. In fact, it is the city’s seemingly limitless vitality that gives it much of its allure.
An Lam Saigon River Private Residence: You’ve heard the cliché about an urban oasis? Well, this is one that actually lives up to the billing. Just a fun 15-minute speedboat ride from downtown Saigon, this boutique resort couldn’t feel further from the traffic insanity and the thick smog that characterises Vietnam’s largest city. With just 14 rooms – a mixture of opulent riverfront villas with private pools and smaller, yet no less special, rooms – it’s as intimate and peaceful as you could possibly wish for. The main pool is shaded by tropical foliage to stave off the worst of the heat, while the restaurant and deck bar are ideal for some riverside indulgence – and are open for everyone to enjoy.
www.epikurean.ws
Sophie’s Art Tour: Devised by English émigré Sophie Hughes, Sophie’s Art Tour looks at Vietnam’s tumultuous recent history through the eyes of its artists. The timeline of colonialism, war, Communism, then breakneck free-market development is familiar to most visitors to the country, but the art it inspired is generally not. Hughes spent nearly a year researching the tour, interviewing experts, artists and collectors, and the result is at once a fascinating introduction to Vietnamese art and a compelling history lesson.
Tel +84 121 830 3742; www.sophiesarttour.com
Saigon after dark: Saigon is a city that rewards those who choose to dig a little deeper. Off the beaten track you’ll find hidden music venues, buzzing enclaves rarely visited by Westerners, and of course the city’s pièce de résistance, its amazing array of Vietnamese eating options. Saigon After Dark encompasses most of these unsung draws. Guests are driven around the city’s streets on the back of vintage Vespas in a voyage of discovery that steers well clear of the usual tourist brochure fodder.
Zoom Café, 169a De Tham, District 1, tel +84 122 299 3585, www.vietnamvespaadventures.com
Chill Skybar: Saigon’s most opulent skybar wasted no time in establishing itself as one of the hottest spots in the city after opening in October 2011. Designed by DWP Thailand, the firm behind the world-renowned Sirocco in Bangkok, the bar justifies its lofty reputation with great cocktails and good food. The A-list Vietnamese celebrities and models who have made this their watering hole of choice may beg to differ, but the real star of the show is the stunning view over Saigon, which is utterly breathtaking.
26th and 27th floors, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, District 1, tel +84 8 3827 2372, www.chillsaigon.com
Dai Nam Park: Often the Vietnamese are big fans of the “throw lots of stuff at the wall and see what sticks” approach to creating family entertainment. Nowhere is this ethos more evident than at this massive theme park about an hour north of Ho Chi Minh City. Here you can ride go-karts, stumble around in a haunted house, float in a giant artificial lagoon on rubber rings and check out one of Vietnam’s better zoos, all in a single day’s activity. And if you can’t bear to leave the place, there’s the option of bedding down for the night in the theme park’s hotel, which is housed inside a replica of the Great Wall of China!
Tel +84 650 351 2660,
www.laccanhdainamvanhien.vn
Monsoon: A breath of sophisticated fresh air near Saigon’s backpacker district, Monsoon is a welcome addition to the city’s dining scene. While the airy setting and immaculate interior design give it the feel of a top-end venue, the restaurant stays true to the Asian street dining ethos of great food at low prices. With Cambodian, Vietnamese, Burmese, Thai and Laotian offerings all present, it’s the only place in town where diners can mix and match a banquet from across mainland Southeast Asia. Top picks include a sweet pork curry from Myanmar and a flawless take on Khmer fish amok. 1 Cao Ba Nha, District 1, tel +84 8 6290 8899.
Le Bouchon De Saigon: If you are looking for a French restaurant with a little more joie de vivre than most then this is your venue. At this Gallic dining spot, precious creations are eschewed for hearty bistro fare such as moules marinière and duck breast magret in mustard sauce. With the cuisine providing a worthy base, the action at the front of house is as lively as a weekend night in Paris, with diners making the most of the extensive wine list and the permissive atmosphere. 40 Thai Van Lung, District 1, tel +84 8 3829 9263.
Cu Chi Tunnels: If you ever needed a reminder of how futile American intervention in Vietnam was, you’ll find it just outside Ho Chi Minh City at Cu Chi. Here an intricate network of tunnels – stretching for over 250km in Cu Chi District alone – enabled Viet Cong fighters to exert their influence over a huge rural area deep in the heart of US/South Vietnamese-controlled territory. Today the depleted tunnel complex is one of Vietnam’s top tourist attractions. Although tunnels have been expanded to accommodate the larger size of Westerners, it remains a claustrophobic experience and one essential to comprehending the lengths to which the Viet Cong went in order to vanquish their enemy.
L’Usine: More a lifestyle choice than a café/boutique, L’Usine is unashamedly trendy. The café counter is lined with hip magazines, an art space provides a haven for the city’s creative set, while the boutique in the back of the premises houses everything from imported street fashion to Lomu cameras and designer motorbike helmets. The café itself doesn’t have the widest selection of edibles in town, but the sandwiches are very decent and not so stuffed that you’ll spill anything over your MacBook Pro. 151 Dong Khoi, District 1, tel +84 8 6674 3565.
Yoko: Saigon may be a party city,
but left-field types can have a tough task tracking down bohemia. This hipster hangout, however, offers respite from all the dumb fun. While some of the cover bands are merely so-so, this is the place of congregation for Saigon’s handful of questing musicians, which makes for some decent jam sessions. Throw reasonably priced drinks and comfortable sofas into the mix and you’ve got a recipe for a cool, unpretentious, bar – a simple but rare concept in this town. 22A Nguyen Thi Dieu Street, District 3, tel +84 8 3933 0577.
