Features

São Paolo – the city that never sleeps

28 Jun 2010

if Sex and the City had been written in Brazil, São Paulo would certainly have charmed the world playing the role of a tropical Manhattan. That’s because no other city in the South American country has such a perfect combination of internationally acclaimed style and sophistication, with a hint of Brazilian spice – to shake things up.

In our Latin version of Sex and the City, the four friends would wear sexier outfits without losing one inch of style and would drive flash cars to lunch, instead of taking taxis. If nice looking ladies leisurely enjoying lunch together is what you expect to find in São Paulo, you are not too far from the truth. At least, that is one side of the truth. Unfortunately, the other side is not as pretty. Beggars are also part of the city’s landscape and can be seen at traffic lights, sometimes asking for money, other times trying to win the attention of the wealthy drivers by performing acrobatic acts that don’t lack either in talent or boldness but would give them – at the end of a good day – no more then a few bucks to take home.

Samba dancer

The extra glamorous and the extremely poor are like different tunes that together compose the melody of São Paulo city. The result of such a vast lower class also means highly dedicated staff throughout the city, which makes the lives of travellers like you and I a fair bit easier. To have a better idea of what a proper São Paulo experience would be like, try to imagine New York City with smiley waiters that won’t force you to give tips. Imagine a city where you’d be able to savour your favourite dish, from any international or regional cuisine, at any time of the day or night. So if you happen to finish a meeting at 11pm, don’t panic. You’ll still be able to pick and choose your restaurant options at that time.

Imagine renting a car and being able to drive around the city and not having to worry about parking (most restaurants and bars have their own valet parking service). For the ladies, how about being able to get the famous Brazilian wax done for the price of peanuts with the quality of a five-star hotel? Sounds good? Like few other major cities in developing countries, São Paulo has the benefits of being a first world city in a third world country.

Municipal Theatre in São Paulo

For many, São Paulo can be seen as ruthless. As a true city that never sleeps, it carries both good and bad reputation and, of course, being the powerhouse of the Brazilian economy is no easy task. In a country that has international recognition for its samba and football, it’s no wonder that the hard-working and industrious city can be seen as “no fun”, snobbish or even grumpy. It is still not uncommon to hear that the “Paulistas” (citizens of São Paulo) work, while the rest of the Brazilians relax. This saying is often controversial, especially among citizens of other states who swear they do work. Which is true, of course, although the pace and efficiency of the work done anywhere else in Brazil would certainly leave room for further debate.

The undeniable fact is that São Paulo city is the biggest economy in Brazil by far. It alone contributes 15 percent of the country’s GNP, and 45 percent if the entire São Paulo state is taken into account. It is the biggest city in Brazil, with over 11 million inhabitants.

Church of Santa Efigenia

Its main economic activities have gradually changed from manufacturing to the service industry over the latter part of the 20th century and the city is home to a large number of local and international banks, law firms, multinational companies and consumer services.

What makes São Paulo unique though is not its size, money or power but its welcoming nature. Like a generous mother, the city has embraced many different cultures throughout the years from both inside and outside of Brazil accepting them as part of its own. In the 19th century, the city experienced economic prosperity through its coffee exports. After 1881, waves of immigrants from Italy and other European countries, Japan, Syria and Lebanon moved to São Paulo state due to the coffee production boom. At that time, enslavement of Africans was coming to an end and the government, concerned that the population of Africans was greater than that of the Europeans, decided to give incentives to nationals of countries such as Italy, Germany, Lithuania, Ukraine, Poland, Portugal and Spain to immigrate.

Street Market

The result of that is a colourful melting pot of cultures, colours and styles that gives life to the streets of this cosmopolitan metropolis. But even as a culturally diverse city, São Paulo is quite unique when compared with other cosmopolitan cities such as London, Hongkong or New York. The reason for that is that all these different cultures were absorbed into one, creating Brazil’s own special cultural breed. The second and third generations of Japanese from São Paulo, for example, carry a special combination of oriental charm and Latin spice. That is also true for all the other migrants who have chosen to live in São Paulo. Their culture wasn’t erased but rather morphed into something completely new that made them not fully Japanese, or Italian, or Syrian, but fully Brazilian – with a twist.

São Paulo is proud to be the home to the largest Japanese community outside of Japan, so even if it seems counter intuitive, when in São Paulo, think sushi. You can’t go too wrong.

The Italian influence is also very strong and “Paulistas” will argue that the best pizzas in the world are actually made there and not in Italy. You can be the judge. São Paulo’s pizza has become a commodity and visiting the city for the first time and not having pizza could be compared to going to Paris and not having croissant. But be careful, pizza in São Paulo has to be taken seriously. There is almost a ritual to it which starts with queuing up for your pizza on a Sunday night.

Parque Ipiranga

São Paulo, together with Rio de Janeiro, is the spot where most overseas visitors – whether for business or leisure – land in Brazil. While a complete experience of the city would take a few weeks, it’s possible to visit all major sites within three days.

Following São Paulo’s extraordinary growth during the 20th century, most of the old city buildings have given way to contemporary architecture. This means that most tourist sights are concentrated around the historical centre, where 17th-century churches stand in the shadows of skyscrapers. The traditional ethnic neighbourhoods are also fairly close to the centre. Shopping and dining, though, are spread throughout the city.

São Paulo Sé Cathedral Square

São Paulo can be divided into seven main regions but, for most things, you only really need to know two.

Centro Historico – Historical Centre – worth visiting during the day as most old buildings of the city will be found around the area. While in the centre, stop by Mercado Municipal, a huge market that sells fresh fruits, vegetables, cured meets, cheeses, spices and condiments and it is home to secret snack bars and restaurants that – sshh – not many foreigners know about. There, you’ll be able to experience exquisite Portuguese cuisine, in particular the codfish balls, and the mortadela (a type of cured meat) sandwiches to die for.

Monumento Pedro Alvares Cabral

Expanded Centre – a region including Avenida Paulista, our equivalent to Wall Street in New York, Jardins, Itaim Bibi and Vila Olimpia, three of the most sophisticated neighbourhoods in São Paulo,  – is full of vibrant restaurants and bars. It is also known for having the best shops in town. If you’d like to pay a visit to some of São Paulo’s finest fashion houses, don’t miss Clube Chocolate and Daslu. (For details, check the box.) For the ones who would choose trendy and arty oversophistication, the areas to go would be: Vila Madalena (our Soho), Pinheiros, Pacaembu, Higienopolia, Lapa or Pompéia. These are all areas full of charm and wit but with a “down to earth” feel to them, especially when compared to Jardins. If you are not spending long in São Paulo, chances are you won’t have time to try it all.

But don’t worry. There will always be a next time. Meanwhile, try Vila Madalena for dinner or maybe just a casual beer after your appointments. n

FAST FACTS

Shopping

Clube Chocolate Clube Chocolate is certainly one of São Paulo’s hottest fashion boutiques. A four-storey indoor atrium features towering palm trees, sandy beach and chic café-eatery bubbly with lounge music. Designed by Brazilian-architect Isay Weinfeld, the store features local woods, stone, and sand to create a design oasis aimed at capturing Brazilian sensuality. Aside from men and women’s clothing, the store offers home wares from indigenous Indians, exotic-bird market with toucans and lingerie store with sex toys. The downstairs restaurant, where diners are seated on furniture available for purchase, serves-up a casual lunch menu in a bookstore environment. Address: Rua Oscar Freire, 913

Arts

MAM The Modern Art Museum of São Paulo is one of the most active cultural institutions in the city, with a vast collection of Brazilian and other contemporary art. The museum also has its own restaurant where you can have lunch while enjoying the beautiful view of the sculpture garden. MAM

Accommodation

Hotel Fasano The Fasano family, renowned for their hospitality and fine northern Italian cuisine, decided to spread their wings and fly even higher. The result is one of São Paulo’s newest and most charming properties. Rogerio Fasano, considered the number one restaurateur in Brazil, is in charge of the hotel’s gastronomy. The hotel owns a fleet of limousines providing airport pick-ups and transfers to the other restaurants of the Fasano family. From US$610 a night. Address: Rua Vitório Fasano, 88

Where to eat

Oba If you want to have a true Sampa (São Paulo’s nickname) trendy gastronomic experience, try Spot or Oba Restaurante.  Oba dishes are inspired by four different cuisines: Brazilian, Mexican, Thai and Italian. The ambience is warm and colourful and it’s the perfect place to have lunch with friends and maybe have a naughty afternoon Caipirinha (Brazil’s signature drink). After all, you might be in São Paulo for work but you are still in Brazil. So having fun is mandatory! Address: Rua Doutor Melo Alves, 205 - Jardins Spot If you happen to be wondering around Av Paulista, or have just finished a meeting and you’re not sure where to head for lunch, Spot might be just what you are looking for. Open every day of the week, it’s the right place for those who like good food and people watching. Check out the drinks menu, as it is one of the best in the city. Address: Al Ministro Rocha Azevedo, 72 - Cerqueira César
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