Parisian gourmet

Michelle Mannion tries a quartet of cuisines in hotels across the French capital.

FRENCH

Le Cinq The first thing you notice about the Four Seasons George V’s double Michelin-starred restaurant is its opulent décor – all high-ceilinged grandeur with gold detailing and towering blooms, overlooking the hotel’s central courtyard. The second thing you will notice, if you are the person in your party who has been given the price list, is the cost. It’s staggering. Then again, the average punter here is not likely to be too worried about the bill. And in any case, what you are buying is not just a meal but a bone fide culinary event. Everything at Le Cinq is about the detail. White rose petals cascade on to crisp tablecloths; tuxedoed sommeliers find out your food order before suggesting the perfect pairing, then light a candle while decanting your vintage; mineral water from Germany’s Black Forest is poured after dessert to purify your palate for coffee.  Under the leadership of Eric Briffard, the food draws on classic French techniques while incorporating “newer, lighter cooking styles”. It’s exquisite, and generous – my starter, sardines from Saint-Gilles-Croix-de-Vie, was served two ways, as a yuzu tart and green chilli tartare, with a mustard sorbet. This having followed delicate amuse bouches, appetisers and endless rounds of bread served with seaweed butter, I feared I would have no room for my main – perfectly tender lamb shoulder from the Aveyron region (€190 for two people), presented on a silver platter with a sprig of burning rosemary and carved by two immaculate, friendly waiters. But when food is this good, you find a way. Add deliciously creamy Roquefort from the cheese selection (€29), sorbet, dessert (I had a delightful iced meringue shell with rhubarb, strawberries and raspberries, €32), mini-treats from the trolley and rich espresso, and you’ll realise why you really need to factor in a few hours for the full experience. Men should wear a jacket. 31 Ave George V; tel +33 149 527 000; fourseasons.com/paris Open for breakfast 7am-10am (10.30am weekends), lunch 12.30pm-2.30pm, dinner 7pm-10.30pm. Three-course lunch market menu €85, seven-course gourmet tasting menu €220.   

ITALIAN

Il Carpaccio The super-chic Le Royal Monceau Raffles hotel reopened last year following a lavish renovation that has seen its Italian restaurant, Il Carpaccio, move to an intimate setting overlooking the courtyard. Philippe Starck has been inspired by the sea for his design – a corridor covered in shells leads to a 32-seat conservatory surrounded by greenery, with wicker chairs, a mosaic floor and chandeliers. Old Italian scenes decorate low-hanging lamps, which, together with the jazzy music, creates an ambience harking back to a bygone era. The restaurant aims to provide an “emotional” experience, and so tables are placed close together, and the menu, strong on seafood, is inspired by family recipes. Dishes are elegantly presented – I started with a delicious Vitello tonnato and tuna tartare with capers (€34), followed by cannelloni with Calabrese chilli, sautéed bay prawns and artichoke puree (€38), and a moreish zuppa Inglese (€18). My companion’s homemade ravioli stuffed with Caciotta and Scamorza cheese, marjoram and tomatoes (€30 as a main) was packed with flavour. Waiters were attentive yet discreet, and the atmosphere relaxed – few of the well-heeled diners were rushing away on this lunchtime. There is a private dining room for eight, and in good weather you can sit in the courtyard. 37 Avenue Hoche; tel +33 142 998 800; leroyalmonceau.com Open 12pm-2.30pm, 7pm-10.30pm Tues-Sat (closed Sun-Mon). Five-course menu €135 per person.

CANTONESE

Shang Palace For its first hotel in Europe, which launched in December last year, Shangri-La has transported its signature restaurant brand, Shang Palace, to Paris’s fancy 16th arrondissement. Open since September, the 80-seat Shang Palace is located below the lobby of this historic property, originally built in 1896 by the grandnephew of Napoleon. The setting is beautifully elegant – mahogany screens, backlit jade columns and paintings of waterfalls create an Asian flavour, while tables are large and widely spaced. The 60-dish menu, devised by head chef Frank Xu, is inspired by the cuisine of Canton and Huaiyang, and promises to take you on “a culinary journey of genuine traditions”. Food is served family-style in the middle of the table, so be prepared to share and don’t be surprised if courses are served close together. Portions are generous – the starter of sliced pork and cucumber rolls with garlic and chilli oil (€17) comprised 12 pieces, while the wonton soup (€20) was served with plump shrimp, pork and black mushroom dumplings. Both were excellent. So was the braised chicken with shallot and black bean sauce (€45), presented in a clay pot that kept it piping hot and tender. For a touch of theatre, opt for the whole roasted Peking duck (€90 for two people, €160 for four), served two ways – the crispy skin is sliced off at your table and assembled into pancakes by expert staff, while the rest of the meat is taken away to be minced, wok-fried and served in lettuce. Three elegant private dining rooms are available. 10 Avenue d’Iéna; tel +33 153 671 992; shangri-la.com Open Thurs-Mon lunch 12pm-2pm, dinner 7pm-10.30pm, closed Tues-Wed. Set lunch €70-€98 per person, set dinner €98-€128.

JAPANESE

Benkay A high-end Japanese restaurant isn’t perhaps what you’d expect to find in a Parisian hotel, but Benkay has been welcoming diners to its location at the Novotel Tour Paris Eiffel, on the southern bank of the Seine, for approaching 35 years. Access is via the rather corporate lobby and up a lift to the fourth floor, but as soon as you enter you are transported to a more tranquil setting. Bonsai trees sit amidst pebbles behind reception, soft Japanese music plays, and a bamboo water feature trickles in the middle of the room. There are two main ways to dine. Choose from the washoku (traditional Japanese) menu in the main part of the venue – request a window seat to enjoy floor-to-ceiling river views – or sit at one of the live teppanyaki stations and watch tall-hatted chefs practise their craft. There is also a small sushi bar. Staff are welcoming, and the food is great. The tempura vegetables (€25) are a delightfully light way to start, as is the plentiful, finely sliced gyu-tataki marinated beef (€26). The nigiri assortment of sushi (€49) is fresh and tasty – with 15 pieces, it’s best shared between two. Finish with the irresistible wasabi ice (€8). Private dining space is available. 61 Quai de Grenelle; tel +33 140 582 126; restaurant-benkay.com Open 7am-9.30am, 12pm-2pm, 7pm-10pm. Set lunch €38-€55 per person, set dinner €85-€150.   Eurostar operates up to 18 daily services from London St Pancras to Paris, with the fastest journey time taking two hours 15 minutes. Book online at eurostar.com or call +44 (0)8432 186 186.