Features

Inside China... Shenyang: Rust belt renaissance

27 Feb 2017 by Tamsin Cocks
Shenyang

Sandwiched between Inner Mongolia and the Korean Peninsula, the northeast city of Shenyang has played an illustrious role in Chinese history. Its main claim to fame dates back to the 17th century, when the city (then known as Mukden) gave birth to the Manchu-led Qing dynasty – the last imperial dynasty of China – and enjoyed a spell as the centre of authority. The impressive Shenyang Imperial Palace – a mini replica of Beijing’s Forbidden City – still lies at the heart of the city and is the only other surviving Imperial Palace in China.

Today, the capital of Liaoning province boasts a huge urban population of around eight million and is widely regarded as a “ 1.5-tier city”. It is certainly the most important city in the northeast and its rise to prominence has largely been based on its role as an industrial heavyweight, a legacy that began in the 1930s when Liaoning province was in the vanguard of China’s industrial revolution. Major coal and iron mining facilities roared to life, while swathes of state-owned factories produced steel, non-ferrous metals and petrochemicals, as well as churning out parts for the automobile and aerospace industries.

Things began to slow down in the 1980s, and by the turn of the century China’s switch to a market economy had left the state-run industries in disarray, prompting the government to initiate its Northeast Area Revitalisation Plan – a two-pronged strategy aimed at both reinvigorating and modernising the traditional industries, while encouraging the region’s transition to a more service-based economy. Notable investments, such as the massive BMW Brilliance assembly plant that opened in 2003, have continued to cement the region’s mechanised profile.

In the last couple of years however, the city has had a slight fall from grace. Myriad problems including a nationwide slump, strangulation through state-owned marketplace competition, anti-corruption crackdowns and the global steel crisis, have contributed to an economic malaise that saw the province actually post a negative GDP growth last year. Once the booming heart of industry, Shenyang is now increasingly being dubbed a “rust belt” city.

The decline in fortunes has sent Beijing scrambling to address the issue and reaffirm its commitment to revitalisation plans. In China’s 13th Five-year Plan (2016-2020), the government sets out proposals  to promote reform and encourage innovation to bolster the northeast region’s economy. In reality, the economic slump doesn’t seem to have had too much of a negative impact, with plenty of investment continuing to pour into the city.

Service boost

A gleaming symbol of this new tertiary-sector future is set to formally open this month: the Shenyang New World Expo. The enormous new event space is designed and managed by the sister company of the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre (HKCEC), and enjoys a prime position on the riverfront and at the start of the “Golden Corridor” – the main Qingnian Street that leads through the CBD.

It offers five floors of facilities, including two giant exhibition halls with 8.5-metre-high ceilings, a number of multifunctional meeting rooms for smaller events, direct car access, ten different F&B outlets and a sky garden. Additionally, the structure houses the largest K11 Art Mall in China, complete with a Merlin aquarium, a world-first National Geographic interactive exploration centre, a modern cinema complex, plus two hotels including the upcoming five-star New World hotel and a Pentahotel, three serviced apartments and two office towers.

“The Expo is a five-star exhibition centre, and we expect to be the best in any second-tier city,” explained Diane Chen, general manager of the Shenyang New World Expo. “[The MICE] industry has started growing quickly, especially in northeastern China, but there are still a lot of things to be improved. Local organisers definitely want to grow their business, they want to increase service standards, but sometimes they need a bit of knowledge or know-how to do it.

“We hope we can help the industry develop in second-tier cities by increasing the service standards and increasing exhibition standards, which will be tremendously
helpful for organisers.”

With a stellar management team behind it, the new site is riding a wave of optimism that has already seen it secure more than ten contracts for major 20,000 sqm exhibitions ranging from auto shows to dental equipment shows. In fact, so in demand is the new facility, it managed to host a national conference for 8,000 people six months before it opened.

Another example of the strong confidence in Shenyang’s future is the swollen pipeline of international hotels; there are currently around ten high-class international hotels present in Shenyang, with at least five more on the way. Openings scheduled for 2018 include Ritz-Carlton, W and New World hotels plus a JW Marriott “coming soon”. The situation is something of a double-edged sword for the current hoteliers, who are already battling for custom in a saturated market, but they are encouraged by the demonstrable investment that will hopefully reboot the region’s economy.

“Shenyang is within the top ten Chinese cities, based on the city’s size, the population and the economic environment. Right now GDP is a challenge, because of the big picture environment, but we have large potential for the future,” explained Yolanda Luo, director of communications at Shangri-La Shenyang.

“We have the huge BMW factory, a large mining industry and even bigger equipment and manufacturing industries, and many large factories have the base and technology to develop. We also have a lot of international routes to the city and many new infrastructure projects.”

Connectivity

Being a key transport hub is a major asset for Shenyang’s growth and development – geographically, the city has always been a natural conduit from China to Korea, Russia and Japan.

The modern Shenyang Taoxian International Airport currently serves 129 cities, with 28 international destinations, including Tokyo, Seoul, Bangkok, Vancouver and Melbourne. The city is also a junction for eight railways (with three grand railway stations), as well as nine major highways, including inter-provincial highways Jingshen and Jingha. Currently under construction is another high-speed railway to Beijing, which will cut the current five-hour journey time in half.

Within the city itself, a major metro project is under way. Two lines from north to south and east to west have already opened, with two more of the ten total lines planned due to open in the next couple of years.

What to do

An obvious highlight is the Unesco World Heritage-listed Shenyang Imperial Palace that housed the first three Qing emperors. Created between 1625 and 1636, the palace resembles Beijing’s Forbidden City, though with the addition of Manchurian and Tibetan architectural details. The majestic complex comprises 300 rooms around 20 courtyards, so it is much smaller than Beijing, but also benefits from less tourists and more freedom to wander around the displays. The ancient landmark-turned-museum houses 10,000 relics, including artefacts such as detailed scrollwork, hand-carved ivory and ceremonial sceptres (entrance costs RMB60/US$9; 171 Shenyang Road, Shenhe District; en.sypm.org.cn).

Mausoleums of two former Qing leaders can also be found in the city, and are also designated Unesco World Heritage sites. The Fuling Tomb (or East Tomb) houses the remains of Nurhachi, the founder of the Qing dynasty, while the larger and more popular Zhaoling Tomb is the resting place of Huang Taiji.

A rather strange attraction lies on the outskirts of the city. Shenyang’s “Strange Slope” is an unexplained phenomenon that ostensibly defies the laws of gravity – with cars rolling easily uphill but having to be powered downhill. The scientific mystery attracts a steady stream of visitors ready to hop on a bicycle and test out the gravitational anomaly for themselves.

For a local dining experience, the century-old Lao Bian Dumplings Restaurant, located on bustling Middle Street, is a bit of a local legend and has since spawned a chain of restaurants across the country. As the name suggests, dumplings are the name of the game, with a selection of specialities including novelty crab and lotus-shaped varieties, though there’s also a wide selection of dishes ranging from Sichuan-style stew to barbecue skewers. The functional décor is no reflection on the high quality of food and service. As a foreigner, the menu alone is reason to visit, with some amusing translations.

Where to stay

Sofitel Shenyang Lido, consistently voted as the city’s top hotel by Business Traveller China readers, is the largest international hotel with 590 rooms offering premium levels of comfort. It enjoys one of the best positions on the Golden Corridor, close to the CBD and New World Expo, while offering a 20-minute zip to the airport. The sweeping marble staircase in the lobby is renowned for adding a touch of drama to events. Leisure facilities are extensive, with three restaurants and two bars, plus a selection of recreational options from virtual golf to squash courts. sofitel.com

Opened in 2013, Grand Hyatt Shenyang is one of the more recent additions to the international hotel scene. The 333 rooms (including 34 suites) provide a luxurious setting, but the real highlight is the impressive array of excellent dining facilities. From the all-day dining Café Kitchen, with multiple show kitchens, to Il Forno Italian steak house with its speciality oven, there is plenty of culinary choice and the 25-29th floor setting ensures spectacular city views. shenyang.grand.hyatt.com

Shangri-La Shenyang also opened in 2013, with a design inspired by the city’s Imperial Palace in the form of a Song dynasty painting replica behind the reception desk and a rose petal motif on the floor – the official flower of Shenyang. The signature Horizon Lounge on the top floor (level 30) offers a relaxing environment, with all-day refreshment, fast wifi, meeting room facilities and a cosy “log fire” detail. Local cuisine served up in the Summer Palace restaurant is a popular option. shangri-la.com/shenyang

Meanwhile, millennially minded sister property Hotel Jen recently made its debut in the city and is in the midst of a total renovation following its rebrand from the former Traders hotel. This year will see a cool, modern revamp of 200 rooms – with half to become serviced apartments for short- or long-stay guests – plus the gym, ballroom and Chinese restaurant Shang Palace; while next year will see a further 200 rooms refurbished, along with the café and lobby. hoteljen.com/shenyang

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