Features

Heritage hotels

30 Sep 2007 by Mark Caswell

Who says old is out? After a surfeit of chain hotels, travellers have begun yearning for something out of the ordinary, and are paying top dollar these days to stay in properties with a sense of history. And being surrounded by antique grandeur isn’t the only draw – when visiting a country there’s no better way to learn about its culture than in one of its vintage hotels. So if you want to take a trip back in time, or simply have a hankering for the elegance of bygone ages, we’ve picked out a few of the best heritage hotels from around the globe.


FAMILY TRADITION

HOTEL SCHWEIZERHOF LUZERN, LUCERNE

Built in 1845, this historic jewel has had some illustrious guests, from Ludwig II to Tolstoy – and Wagner completed Tristan und Isolde in one of the guestrooms.

The same clan that has run it for five generations remains involved in its management. “A long history awaits you here,” owners Michael and Patrick Hauser write on the hotel’s website (schweizerhof-luzern.ch). “And a history, which is also our family history.”

Completely renovated in 1999 to cater to a new generation of celebrity and corporate travellers, the hotel boasts 107 guestrooms, including 21 suites, all with high-speed internet access and views either of the lakes and mountains or of the courtyards of Lucerne’s Old Town.

Two restaurants serve local fresh fish and seafood, while the Schweizerhof bar is stocked with fine cigars and whiskeys. A sun terrace is open during the summer, and the hotel’s function rooms can accommodate from 10 to 450 delegates.

PRICE From £129.

CONTACT Schweizerhofquai, Lucerne, CH-6002, Switzerland; tel +41 41 410 0410; preferredhotels.com/schweizerhof.


COLONIAL CHIC

LA RESIDENCE HOTEL & SPA, HUE

Governing a colony like Annam in central Vietnam was tiring work, and the French governor needed a place to retreat to at the day’s end. Today, his former abode, La Residence & Spa in Hue, along the fabled Perfume River, continues to offer sanctuary to guests who are in love with the past but can’t do without the state-of-the-art comforts of the present.

Opened two years ago after an extensive renovation which brought to the fore its splendid art deco features, this 1930s structure has been described as an “architectural gem” by many. Most of the 122 rooms have irresistible views of the river banks and Hue’s iconic Citadel beyond, with the Signature Suites located in the original mansion building. The top categories feature colonial themes such as “Monuments d’Egypte” and “Voyage en Chine”, as well as evocative terraces.

The conference and banquet hall can accommodate 120 people, and wifi internet access is free throughout the property.

PRICE From US$110.

CONTACT 1 Le Loi Street, Hue, Vietnam; tel +84 54 837 475; la-residence-hue.com.


A TOUCH OF GLASS

LIASSIDI PALACE, VENICE

This 600-year-old palazzo has been revived as a deluxe retreat in the heart of one of the world’s most romantic cities.

From arrival to departure the experience is destined to be unforgettable, from the the moment the hotel’s water-taxi service drops you off at the entrance, which leads to a flower-filled courtyard and onward to the grand lobby with its soaring ceilings, Gothic windows and marble floors. Guestrooms are just as captivating, blending modern comfort with traditional Venetian touches of Murano glass and art deco detailing. Amenities include air conditioning, satellite/cable TV, bidet, Frette linens, weighing scales and safety deposit box.

F&B options are limited – just breakfast and the bar – but this is hardly a problem when Venice is awash with eateries waiting to be sampled. Also, don’t expect the usual facilities of pool or fitness centre – these are available nearby, but it would in any case be a shame to spend your time stuck in a gym, when you could be out pounding the medieval streets of Venice…

PRICE From E330.

CONTACT Castello, Ponte Dei Greci 3405, Venice 30122, Veneto, Italy; tel +39 041 520 5658; slh.com.


ROYAL RESIDENCE

CHAKRABONGSE VILLAS, BANGKOK

One of the unique features of Thailand is that it never experienced being colonised, and this translates into a host of architectural gems free from French, Italian or British influence.

A peek into some of Bangkok’s leafy sois and side streets often reveals a glimpse of a gorgeous period house, but most are sadly out of bounds to visitors. However, a closer look along the Chao Phraya River reveals a regal residence which basks in the traditions and splendour once linked to the monarchies of Siam and old Russia, dating back to the 19th century or Rattanakosin period.

Chakrabongse House is named after its first resident, Prince Chakrabongse Bhuvanath, the 40th son of King Rama V, who built it in 1908. It was inherited by his daughter, MR Narisa Chakrabongse, who restored it seven years ago and renamed it Chakrabongse Villas.

The intimate property has three choices of elegant accommodation – the Riverside Villa, the Garden Suite or the Thai House – complete with spacious balconies, exquisite tropical gardens and the Riverside Sala restaurant. For dining, orders have to be in by 2pm on the same day so the chef can go shopping for the best ingredients. Such is the individual approach of this hotel – truly a place for connoisseurs of the fine life and Thailand’s colourful past. A maximum of 80 people can be accommodated for functions.

PRICE The three residences are available from THB10,000 (£153).

CONTACT Along the Chao Phraya River; tel +66 2 224 6686; thaivillas.com.


THE MUSEUM HOTEL

GRAND HOTEL, TAIPEI

You can almost imagine the Generalissimo (Chiang Kai-shek) and his elegant wife Soong May-ling standing by this building’s entrance, beaming as you arrive at their hotel; after all, this palatial structure was built in the 1950s to accommodate foreign dignitaries and personal guests of the colourful couple.

Built on the site of an old Shinto shrine overlooking Keelung River, the hotel commands sweeping views from its guestrooms and restaurants. It was expanded several times before reaching its present size (it covers a total of  9.4 hectares). The main building was completed on Double Tenth Day in 1973 (October 10, Taiwan’s national day). However, a disastrous fire in 1995 destroyed the hotel’s upper storeys, requiring it to close down for works until 1998, when it reopened.

Boasting what is said to be the world’s largest Chinese classical-style roof, the hotel also has a vast lobby adorned with enormous vermillion columns – which could easily rival those found in any imperial setting – and is an extravagant showcase of oriental symbolism and grandeur. Proudly displayed in many of the hotel’s public spaces are numerous objets d’art, paintings, carvings and frescoes – so many, in fact, that you wouldn’t be blamed for feeling as if you had checked in to a museum.

The hotel offers 489 spacious guestrooms occupying eight floors (each name after a Chinese dynasty), including Prestige Rooms for business travellers. A lounge is available for breakfast, evening cocktails and meetings.

PRICE Rooms start from TW$3,850 (£57).

CONTACT 1 Lane 1 Chang Shan N Road, Sec 4, Taipei, Taiwan; tel +886 2 2886 8888; grand-hotel.org.


IMPERIAL RETREAT

HOTEL DU PALAIS, BIARRITZ

Long before tourists lounged around the outdoor heated seawater pool, this 158-room resort, built in 1854, belonged to royalty – Napoleon III and his elegant consort Eugenie de Montijo, the last Emperor and Empress of the French, summered regularly here.

Now, it is owned by the city of Biarritz, which has tastefully refurbished the former Villa Eugenie, installing modern comforts such as air conditioning and satellite TV. There are three restaurants on site: La Villa Eugenie for fine dining, the ocean-view La Rotonde for lunch and dinner with music, and the informal L’Hippocampe for poolside lunch.

Sports enthusiasts can take advantage of on-site facilities such as separate pools for adults (with cabanas) and children, two beaches and a pitching green, while other local activities include tennis, squash, surfing, riding, deep-sea fishing and 10 local golf courses. Eight meeting rooms for up to 250 are available.

PRICE From E335.

CONTACT 1 Avenue de L’Imperatrice, Biarritz, France; tel +33 5 5941 6400; lhw.com.


PRINCELY ABODE

MAISON SOUVANNAPHOUM, LUANG PRABANG

This former home of Prince Souvannaphouma, who resided there in the 1960s, consists of a collection of royal chambers of varying sizes and offers a combination of Old Asia charm and contemporary chic.

Twenty-four guestrooms and suites look out onto lush lawns and the poolside restaurant, Elephant Blanc, whose menu highlights Laotian, French and Indochinese cuisines. The Angsana Spa rounds off the experience with therapies aimed at restoring soul and synergy. The hotel is centrally located and within walking distance of must-see attractions such as the Mekong River and Wat Xieng Thong Temple. Internet access is free.

PRICE From US$160.

CONTACT Rue Chao Fa Ngum, Banthatluang, Luang Prabang, Laos; tel 856 71 254 609; slh.com.


SHANGHAI BEAUTY

OKURA GARDEN HOTEL, SHANGHAI

Vintage French architecture and modern design mesh seamlessly in what was the former French Club (circa 1926), and is now the 500-room Okura Garden Hotel. Surrounded by 2.82 hectares of gardens, where tennis, petanque and soccer were played and Mao Zedong once enjoyed a stroll, the place is redolent with memories.

Of the two domed pavilions which occupied a corner of the greens, only one remains. However, many of the original features of the building – such as the metal railing of the staircase in the east entrance lobby, the nude female sculptures crowning the columns in the second floor and the balconies – were preserved, recreating a piece of Shanghai’s heyday. Guestrooms feature plush furnishings in neat neutral tones and contain the requisite business tools.

Managed by the prestigious Japanese chain, Okura, the Japanese restaurant, Yamazato, is as good as you would expect, as is the Cantonese outlet, Bai Yu Lan, with its Hong Kong chef.Meetings are perfectly catered to in the Grand Ballroom, silent witness to some of Shanghai’s most glittering events. Its elliptical, sunken dance area with a sprung floor still exists, although is now protected; also stunning is the oval, stained glass installation in the centre of the ceiling, shaped like the bottom of a boat. A business centre on the 26th floor attends to corporate travellers’ needs, including translation and ticket bookings.

PRICE From CNY1,730 (£114).

CONTACT 58 Mao Ming Nan Lu, Shanghai, China, tel +86 21 6451 111, lhw.com.


BEAUTIFUL BUILDING

THE PENINSULA NEW YORK

Beaux-Art buildings in New York are what add to its distinctive visual character, and The Peninsula, sister to the Hong Kong matriarch, is one of these beauties.

Originally the Gotham Hotel, which opened in 1905, it remains one of the first buildings in the city to use steel-frame construction. Its facade with limestone carvings, copper cornice and Doric columns complemented the neighbouring University Club, which was also cutting-edge back then.

The building was subsequently changed to residential use, until 1978 when it resurfaced as Maxim’s de Paris. The Peninsula Group took over in 1988, reopening it as its US flagship. Ten years later, the hotel underwent a total makeover, which introduced contemporary furnishings and modern technology, which served only to highlight the existing design elements.

The Peninsula is known for its high-tech rooms, and those at the New York hotel have all the perks, from the bedside control panel to the “smart” switch for setting mood lighting, while fax machines are programmed to signal in the bedside controls and at the door if a fax arrives.

PRICE From US$775.

CONTACT 700 Fifth Avenue at 55th Street, New York, USA; tel +1 212 956 2888; peninsula.com.


UPDATED LANDMARK

POLONIA PALACE HOTEL, WARSAW

At 90, this Warsaw landmark, known for having welcomed various politicians, artists and celebrities, is still going strong, thanks to a major but sensitively conducted refurbishment which eased it into the 21st century. Located on one of the city’s most important streets, it’s near the Central Railway Station and the Palace of Culture and Science Convention Centre.

Spread over seven floors are 206 guestrooms and suites, including one English period-style apartment,and the feeling is one of inviting warmth. Amenities include laptop safes, blackout curtains, double-glazed windows, high-speed internet access, and satellite TV with radio and bill-view function.

Meetings of up to 250 people can convene in six venues which are equipped with high-tech features to create successful product launches, gala dinners or boardroom meetings. A business centre, located nearby, is open 24 hours.

Polish with a Mediterranean twist is available in the main restaurant, while pastries are Café Strauss’s specialties. Bojangles Bar has the drinks and space for small meetings.

PRICE From E160.

CONTACT Jerozolimskie 45, Warsaw City, mazovia, Poland; tel +48 22 318 2800; worldhotels.com.


BACK ON THE SCENE

RAFFLES BEIJING

Since 1900, this iconic property – known in the past as Grand Hotel de Peking – has played a significant role in the Chinese capital’s social life. Mao Zedong, Chou Enlai, Liu Shaoqi, Deng Xiaoping and other renowned figures have at one time or another enjoyed its quality service.

Located at the crossroads of the bustling Changan Avenue and the commercial district of Wangfujing, it recently went through an epiphany with the help of another legend, Fairmont Raffles Hotels International. Imbued with a refreshed persona, the hotel now features 171 spacious guestrooms, including a Presidential Suite, measuring 884 sqm, five Grand Hotel Suites and nine Personality Suites. Each of the Personality Suites is named after local luminaries.

While historical elegance clearly defines the ambience permeating the hotel, the needs of the present – catering to the corporate traveller – are fully understood. Essential work tools such as wifi, high-speed broadband and plasma TV are provided everywhere. Residents can also experience four distinctive F&B choices: Jaan Restaurant for contemporary French cuisine, East 33 for Chinese and Italian, La Vie for high tea and the Writers’ Bar for cocktails and after-dinner cognac.

There are five meetings venues and highly professional staff to make sure events run impeccably, just as everything else does in the rest of the hotel.

PRICE From CNY2,400 (£158).

CONTACT 33 East Changan Avenue, Beijing 100004; tel +86 10 6526 3388; beijing.raffles.com.


LIFTING THE VEIL

RAMBAGH PALACE, JAIPUR

It’s little wonder that the beautiful Maharani Gayathri Devi of Jaipur was displeased when she learned her husband, Sawai Man Singh II, had turned over the stately Rambagh Palace – her home for many years – to outsiders to run as (gasp) a hotel. But her loss has been the gain of the world’s travellers, who have been allowed a glimpse of life behind the high walls and a world of landscaped gardens, exquisite antiques, and rich tapestries and paintings, where a retinue of retainers stand silently by to do one’s bidding.

Each of the 73 guestrooms and 17 suites may hark back to a bygone era, but in-house services respond to present-day needs with 24-hour room service, valet service, a business centre with internet access, secretarial service, currency exchange, bookings and meeting venues. However, esoteric requests for an astrologer or folk dancers will also be entertained. This is India, remember, the land of fantasy and fascination.

PRICE From US$500.

CONTACT Bhawani Singh Road, Jaipur, India; tel +91 141 221 1919; lhw.com.


FIT FOR A POPE

RELAIS LA SUVERA, SIENA, TUSCANY

Imagine waking up to interiors done by Baldassarre Peruzzi, one of the Renaissance period’s foremost architects, or supping in the presence of heirloom antiques and objets d’art. Guests staying at the 32-room Relais la Suvera (“suvera” meaning sovereign) do just that.

This estate in Tuscany has a long and colourful history behind it, starting in the High Middle Ages when it was owned by the powerful Countess Ava Matilde de Franzesi until the Republic of Siena presented it to Pope Julius II in exchange for sacral favours.

Besides being known as an astute politician, the Pope was also an avowed art connoisseur, who commissioned Raphael, Michelangelo and Bramante to create their immortal works for the Vatican. When it came to choosing a  La Suvera, no one would do but the architect and artists Peruzzi, who planned the clever juxtaposition between the severity of a medieval fortress and the sumptuousness of Renaissance aesthetics.

Fortunately, today’s culture lovers can experience the enchantment of the papal villa, thanks to the preservation efforts of the Marquis Ricci family, La Suvera’s present owners. They have even created a museum, where they are building up a collection of artefacts related to La Suvera’s lineage.

Modern amenities in the guestrooms include air conditioning, satellite TV, minibar, personal safe and Tuscan herbal products with olive oil as their base. The Oliviera Restaurant showcases Tuscan cuisine as well as wines from the estate, whose vines are cultivated organically.

PRICE From E385.

CONTACT 5030 Pievescola, Siena, Italy; tel +39 05 7796 0300; lasuvera.it.


PLEASING SYNERGY

THE WESTIN SYDNEY

The Westin Sydney started life as a General Post Office, but has since seamlessly made the transition to becoming a world-class hotel.

The 416-room hotel in prestigious Martin Place incorporates one of Sydney’s most recognisable Victorian landmarks (built 1865) into its contemporary design, resulting in an eye-pleasing synergy. A four-storey enclosed glass-roofed courtyard cleverly brings together these diverse buildings – the new tower and the vintage structure with its iconic clock tower.

In the new 31-storey block are guestrooms with spectacular views of the city, while the Post Office wing contains the Heritage Rooms. Standard amenities include the Heavenly bed, expansive bathrooms with separate rainforest showers and deep soaking tubs, Bose sound system and 37-inch flatscreen TVs. Westin Workout rooms with treadmills are also available.

Mosaic, Westin’s signature restaurant in the courtyard link, specialises in Mediterranean dishes. In addition, there are 14 other F&B options in the No 1 Martin Place complex for guests with adventurous palates.

PRICE From A$385 (£160).

CONTACT 1 Martin Place, Sydney, NSW 2000, Australia; tel +61 2 8223 1222; westin.com.au.


Happy Birthday Raffles

Most people don’t even get to celebrate their 100th birthday – as Singapore’s Raffles Hotel did in 1987, when it was declared a national monument – much less reach the grand old age of 120, but Raffles Hotel will mark this milestone on December 1. This was the day, in 1887, when four Armenian brothers (Martin, Tigran, Aviet and Arshak Sarkies) opened the doors of what has come to stand “for all the fables of the Exotic East”, to quote Somerset Maugham, who was no stranger to the hotel or its impeccable service.

Festivities will culminate in an Open House Gala Reception at the Palm Court in the middle of the month, when the public will be able to tour areas exclusive to guests. In September 1991 the curtain rose on an impressive restoration which took two and half years, revealing elegant public spaces and a collection of suites and restaurants, all sensitively planned to launch Raffles Hotel into a new era. The public was pleased, accolades have been pouring in since and the guest roster – always luminous in the past – has remained just as bright, as heads of state, dignitaries, rock stars and royalty checking in, eager to renew their acquaintance with a familiar friend.

Diana Ee-Tan, managing director of Raffles Hotels and Resorts, says: “For over a century, Raffles Hotel Singapore’s heritage, unique residential charm and gracious service have enchanted travellers the world over. The hotel embodies the romance of travel and, with her timeless style, will continue to be a treasured landmark and legendary icon for many decades to come.”


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