Features

Head first

1 Sep 2006 by business traveller

THINNING HAIR

The cause: according to top trichologist Philip Kingsley, who runs clinics in London and New York (philipkingsley.co.uk), there are many causes of thinning hair, including illness, thyroid imbalances, low iron levels, diet deficiencies and hormones, to name just a few. But genetics are also a major factor, so if members of your family have thin hair, you are likely to have thin hair as well. However, what affects some people may not affect others, depending on the genetic susceptibility of the hair follicles.

The most common cause of thinning hair in both men and women is androgen response in the hair follicles. Androgens are male hormones which are present in both men and women – but of course men usually have more.

The strategy: Kingsley says: "The latest treatments for androgen response are anti-androgens that are in a topically applied solution, usually drops. These are applied daily to the scalp to block the effect of androgens in the hair follicles, and they are very effective." They cost around £40 for approximately a six-week supply, depending on dosage. Hair can also be made to look thicker with body building and volumising products.
also Try... Philip Kingsley's Body Building Shampoo, £9.95, Conditioner, £14 and Maximiser, £18, a volumising spray that gives your hair body (stockists +44 (0)207 629 4050); L'Oreal Paris Elvive for Men Regenium XY Shampoo, £2.96; and Clinique's Hair Maximising Shampoo, £10.

GOING GREY

The cause: grey hairs are the result of pigment-forming cells at the root becoming inactive. Hair that is already formed doesn't turn grey; it's the new hair growth that is simply unpigmented. The process is gradual and, of the thousands of hair follicles on your scalp, only a few become inactive at a time, although it varies between individuals.

The strategy: some people find salt and pepper hair rather distinguished – especially if the rest of you is well-groomed, like George Clooney – so there could be a strong argument for letting it grow through. But because grey hair tends to have a coarser texture, you'd be advised to pick up a moisturising, shine-enhancing shampoo and conditioner to give your hair back some of its youthful lustre. If it has progressed beyond this stage and you're sporting the all-over grey effect, reminiscent of pre-Glasnost Russian politicians, you may decide to colour your hair. If so, you can disguise it with an at-home colouring kit (available in most chemists). Make sure you choose a shade close to your natural shade (within one or two shades). The words "semi-permanent" mean it will wash out after eight or so washes. Permanent means it'll last, but, depending on the colour, you'll most likely get roots after a couple of months, which can get you locked into a colouring cycle (still, it's something to do in your hotel of an evening).

Also try... Charles Worthington Moisture-Seal Glossing Shampoo and Superconditioner, both £4.18. If your hair is already quite grey or white, try Lifetex Color Reflex Shampoo Silver from Wella Professionals £7.30, (salonfinder.co.uk for stockists). It makes your hair shiny and prevents yellowness and dulling discolouration.

DRY AND DULL

The cause: constant climate changes between hot and cold countries, air conditioning and central heating and the dry air of an airplane cabin add up to de-moisturised, lacklustre hair. Equally, the knock-on effects of lots of UV exposure in the summer mean a breakdown of the protein structure – loss of specific amino acids affect its shine, strength and resilience.

The strategy: help prevent further damage by using conditioning products. Look out for ingredients such as ceramides, keratin proteins or amino acids and pro-vitamin B5, as these can penetrate the hair shaft to reinforce its structure.

Also try... Pantene Repair & Protect Triple Amino Instant Repair Treatment, £3.99. If you find yourself suffering from dandruff, Nizorelle, £4.99, is the product to look out for which is highly effective at controlling flakes.

FRIZZY/FLUFFY HAIR

The cause: according to Philip Kingsley, you can blame frizziness on the weather, as it's mainly humidity that causes it, as well as static electricity. It can affect all hair types, though curly hair suffers most of all.

The strategy: while you can't do much about your environment, there are products to help. As frizzy hair lacks moisture, products should be focused on replacing it, which means using moisturising shampoo and conditioner. Make sure your hair is always completely dry before going out too, as damp hair quickly becomes frizzy.

Also try... John Frieda Frizz-Ease Straight Ahead Shampoo and Conditioner, £4.49 which tames and calms all types of dry, frizz-prone hair and forms a humidity-resistant barrier.

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