Mexico's Riviera Maya: From here to infinity

The Riviera Maya's blend of nature and nurture makes for a perfectly relaxing break, finds Michelle Harbi The only sound to be heard as we push out into the lagoon is the rudder cutting through the water. The ripples the boat creates are the only movement on its still surface, and we, it seems, are the only beings out here enjoying the perfect peace in the late morning sun. But under the surface, it’s far from quiet – and we are far from alone. As we glide along, our driver points out what is unseen by us but obvious to him. Turtles swim slowly in packs, their little heads poking out from the blue. A moorhen minds its young, pecking at the algae with its bright red beak; an azure-eyed cormorant stretches its wings in the sun. Against the rocks basks an iguana, safe in its camouflage, cocking its head regally as if to convey to whom these channels really belong. But lurking where the waters meet the dense mangroves is the real king of the lagoon – a six-foot crocodile, one eye lifted lazily as he peruses his prey. We’re in Mayakoba, a lush eco-resort that hugs a mile of Mexico’s Riviera Maya, the stretch of coastline that extends 120km south of Cancun. Located just outside Playa del Carmen, Mayakoba was developed in the 2000s and comprises three luxury hotels – the Rosewood, the Banyan Tree and the Fairmont – a Greg Norman-designed 18-hole golf course, and 15km of waterways threading through 240 hectares of jungle, forest and beach. An Andaz property is to follow next year. Protecting the resort’s more than 300 kinds of flora and 200-plus species of fauna – many endangered – is a crucial concern at Mayakoba. On any given day, you might spy raccoons, anteaters, spider monkeys and even boa constrictors hiding in the red, white or black-coloured mangroves, or toucans, motmots and parakeets flitting through the geiger, sapodilla and trumpet trees. If you’re staying at the Rosewood (rosewoodhotels.com) – a glorious place to spend a few days’ break – you don’t even need to board the daily boat tours it lays on to experience lagoon life. Open since 2008, a number of its 130 suites have been built over the water, with private decks and plunge pools from which you can watch the world go by. Relaxing on my deck shortly before the sun descends, I watch as the resort’s newest guests are taken by boat to their suite, and anticipate their reaction as they step inside. Beautifully decked out in Yucutan limestone, marble and indigenous woods, they have been designed to blend in with the nature that surrounds them, while offering every luxury one might wish to find – from outdoor rainshowers and deep free-standing tubs to Nespresso machines for an early morning wake-up brew on the terrace. And, this being Mexico, a complimentary bottle of Herradura tequila to kick-start the evening. As we stroll the grounds – politely declining the friendly offers of golf buggy lifts from restaurant to beach – staff greet us warmly by name. Pool or beachside, they bring us little treats – pina colada ice creams and crisp crudités – while offering to give us mini head massages and clean our sunglasses. It’s never obtrusive, though – perhaps the hardest trick to pull off when many guests are seeking solitude – and we simply feel well looked after, and incredibly content. In the evenings, we try out the Rosewood’s three restaurants. At the poolside Casa del Lago, we feast on fine-dining fare on the outdoor terrace. By the beach, we tuck into flavour-packed empanadas and ceviches at Punta Bonita. Our favourite, though, is Agave Azul, where we match fresh sushi and plump rock shrimp tempura with zingy tequila cocktails – it has a “library” of more than 100 premium varieties of the drink. One night, we head into Playa del Carmen. While we’re here towards the end of the Caribbean hurricane season (June to November), there is a pleasant buzz along Fifth Avenue and we spend an easy hour browsing its shops and peering into the lively restaurants and bars. Side-stepping the sombrero-clad mariachi bands, we plump for Yaxche (mayacuisine.com), where we’re served authentic Mayan dishes by attentive staff. We finish up in La Bodeguita del Medio (labodeguitadelmedio.com.mx), an outpost of Hemingway’s Havana haunt, and sip mojitos while watching couples dance expertly to their own rhythm. By day, there’s no shortage of things to do in Riviera Maya and the surrounding area – from scuba diving and snorkelling on the world’s second-largest coral reef, to exploring the millennia-old Mayan ruins at Tulum, Coba and Chichen Itza. Or simply do as we did – lie on the powdery white sand, swim in the sea, and feel revived by the sun.