It was there that Grace Kelly met her husband Prince Rainier III of Monaco. Welcome to the InterContinental Carlton Cannes, where glimpses of Hitchcock’s 1955-film To Catch A Thief flashed by as I walked past its daunting white pillars, down its stairs. Monochrome turned to colour as I approached Promenade de la Croisette, only a few metres away. A Lamborghini Huracán zipped across, tearing the wind apart like a ghost, and it had only been a split second.
The Croisette was as charming as the French can get. A glamorous setting to say the least; picture elegant French women with their pocket-sized pooches throbbing out of their designer purses strutting swiftly as content, aged couples of miscellaneous origins silently devour some “crepes sucre”. Fancy the latest bracelet from the Cartier boutique at the opposite boulevard to complement that white sauvignon blanc from Bordeaux you sip at the Carlton bar? You’re in luck.
Comparatively modest and not half as bad was my stroll on the Croisette towards the Palais des festivals et des Congrès (the venue for the Cannes Film Festival) with an espresso in hand. Reaching the venue, I reminisced my last time there when I visited during the Festival. Flashing lights of the paparazzi competed with dresses of haute couture at this very point. The French commune was comparatively relaxed this time, but still breathed the same panache it did during my last visit.
The avenue of Alleys of Liberty is a short-walk from there and considering it was the weekend, I headed to the antiques and art flea market (open Saturday-Sunday 7am-5:30pm) being hosted. The art was edgy and the cascading plane trees quietly drew attention — not a bad place to pick some quirky collectables to take back home.
Cannes is not that vast in terms of size and its foremost shopping area — rue d’Antibes — is only a short-walk from the Croisette. This high-street is a fashion haven with labels that cater to all kinds of budgets and styles. Lined with eminent international brands, it also prides itself on an array of local boutiques that retail homegrown fashion.
A break from all that “à la mode” was the winding cobbled street of St Antoine that sloped above to the oldest part of Cannes — Le Suquet. The walk upwards was bordered by intimate cafes and restaurants that couldn’t accommodate more than five to ten guests at a time. As I went higher, the modernity of the French commune seemed afar and I arrived at the original quarters of Cannes perched atop a hill. A series of stairs led to the Musée (museum) de la Castre (open 10am-1pm, 2pm-5pm; €6.50/₹489) located in the ruins of a medieval castle. Known for its primitive art, antiques and landscape paintings from the Middle East, Europe and the Mediterranean islands, the museum is a contrasting break from the chic Croisette. There is an antique stone-tower situated in the terrace of the museum and a dilapidated staircase inside took me to a breathtaking view of the bay of Cannes. From the mountains hiding beneath a sheath of clouds to the Lérins Islands in the distance, the view was post-card worthy.
On the way back through St Antoine, the horde of restaurants nestled in this quaint street spoiled me for choice. An early supper at the lovely La Mirabelle, set in a storey below in what could have been a cave was a charming conclusion to the eventful day. I tried the house truffles’ salad and olive risotto, that was as heartwarming as the restaurant’s owner who stopped by.
The view of the sun kissing the clouds above the azure Mediterranean Sea woke me up next morning. These hours of the day are ideal for visiting the Forville market (open 7am-1pm on all days of the week except Mondays), known for its fresh produce including fish, fruits and flowers, and that’s exactly where I headed. The market came alive with the aromas and colours of new harvest; lavenders blended with powdered yellow peonies amidst lush strawberries and plump grapes. While the Forville market is more of a locals’ stopover, I quite enjoyed walking through the plethora of vegetables — a treat for all my senses. Do try the chickpeas pancake called “Soca” prepared at a live kitchen in the market, for some interesting local flavour.
That evening was spent on the bigger one of the Lérins Islands — Sainte-Marguerite Island — that can be accessed by a 15-minute boat ride from the Cannes port. The infamous legend of the “man in the iron mask” finds its resting place at the former prison on Sainte-Marguerite Island. Legend has it that this prisoner arrested in the reign of Louis XIV hid his face during his imprisonment, leading to various theories on his actual identity. My interest in this mysterious folklore and history was gratified at the Maritime Museum (open 10am-1pm, 2pm-5pm; €6.50/₹489), that also depicts archaeological finds from the time when the Romans inhabited this island. The island’s pathways are marked with pine-trees and other plantations that make it an interesting trekking site for adventure lovers and families. For a picturesque dip in the crystal clear Mediterranean Sea, head to Sainte-Marguerite Island’s pebbled shore.
Next morning, along with some croissants and expressos at the open-air Carlton restaurant that faces the sea, I soaked in the grandeur of Cannes yet another time before I departed further south. It was my first time in the little French town of Saint-Tropez, located about 90km from Cannes and 100km from Nice. It bears resemblance with its French cousin Cannes, especially with regard to its inherent love of yachts and all things posh. This is evident at its pier that charges €1,400/₹1,07,362 a day just for parking. Needless to say, it’s nothing less than a symbol “you have arrived” to have your boat stationed at this port.
As I walked from Hotel de Paris (where I stayed) towards the pier, boutiques of luxury fashion houses tucked into old-fashioned buildings enveloped the route from both the sides. There was something charming yet classical about this town painted in shades of ochre and orange. Smaller in area compared to Cannes, it isn’t difficult to get used to its streets and winding cobbled alleys. Purple wisteria bloomed alongside fragrant jasmine that decorated facades of fashion boutiques and art-galleries. I stumbled upon an atelier by the very interesting artist Ivon Hor, who specialises in nautical artwork he crafts with paper. Ivon, wearing his hat and vintage glasses, sat in his studio experimenting with his creations, as we engaged in brief conversations about his unique talent. Saint-Tropez prides on many artists like him who create avant-garde work in their studios set in the alleys of this settlement.
A short-drive from the centre got me to Pampelonne beach, situated about 5km from Saint-Tropez. While this beach isn’t really in the town, it is still considered to be a part of St. Trop (as it’s casually called). The Mediterranean Sea glistened with hues of azure I had never seen before and the sun generously shone in the pastel sky.
The deputy mayor of tourism in Saint-Tropez, monsieur Henri Prévost-Allard, joined us for lunch and conversation began to flow as easy as the rosé. It was interesting to learn that Allard is a descendant of Saint-Tropez-based General Jean-François Allard, who served in Napoleon’s army during the 19th century. Henry explained, “It was in 1822 when General Allard was sent to Punjab, India to join the service of Maharaja Ranjit Singh, the founder of the Sikh empire in India. The two went on to become accomplices. During General Allard’s time in India, he fell in love with and married the princess of Chamba, Bhannu Pan Dei, and returned to France in 1835 with her and their children.” This romance has created a deep-rooted connect between India and Saint-Tropez, and it was endearing to see Henry’s eyes light up as he spoke enthusiastically about the iconic love-story. To learn more about this historical saga, head to the museum of l’Annonciade (open 10am-1pm, 2pm-6pm; €6/₹450), that depicts stories and paintings from the life and time of Jean-François Allard. The museum must also be visited for awe-inspiring works of art by neo-impressionist artist Paul Signac, known for his pointillist-styled paintings of this part of France.
A sojourn in France is incomplete without a wine-tasting experience of the region you’re in. After a rendezvous with the art and history of Saint-Tropez, I headed to the family-run vineyards of Château des Marres (chateaudesmarres.com) for a tryst with some vino from the French Riviera. Situated in Ramatuelle, close to Saint-Tropez, it stretches across a lush 27 hectares. I closely observed the grapes on vines as Florent of Château des Marres explained how the family converted their passion of creating fine wine into a business in 2004. Just like the rest of the Provence region, this vineyard also finds its expertise in rosé. Do try their Prestige and 2S rosé varieties that aren’t too overpowering and have a pleasant finish.
As I made my way back to Hotel de Paris, I stopped by the patisserie called La Tarte Tropézienne (latartetropezienne.fr/en) in Saint-Tropez to pick up its famous Tropizienne cake. A creamy brioche, its smooth texture and generous sugar content makes it quite a delight — a must try when there. Walking past the coast, I noticed a boat by the name of Brigitte Bardot, that reminded me of And God Created Woman, the 1956-movie starring the actress that was filmed right here in Saint-Tropez. The actuality of this town was pretty much as depicted in the movie. Fancy, yet not over the top. Elegant, yet simple. A subtle sophistication.
It was time to depart, and I reeled back to retrospect my experience in all of Côte d’Azur; and colour turned to monochrome once again.
FACT:
The original residence of the princess and wife of Jean-François Allard, Bhanu Pan Dei in Saint-Tropez has been converted into a luxury boutique hotel called Pan Deï Palais (pandei.com). A part of the Relais & Châteaux group, the hotel has only 12 exclusive rooms and suites that have been designed keeping in mind Indian royalty and heritage.
