Features

Kuching

31 May 2014 by Clement Huang
A common myth of how the Malaysian city of Kuching got its name is that it was derived from the Malay word for cat, kucing. In truth, the term cat is actually pusak in the official Sarawakian dialect of Behasa Melayu Sarawak, spoken by the local community. Just like the story of its name, the city of Kuching remains a riddle few have solved. Home to a population of nearly 700,000 multi-racial people, it owes its roots to both Brunei and colonial rule. Most travellers may not be familiar with the city or even the state of Sarawak for that matter, while those that do may praise its eco-tourism sector. Either way, the city has traditionally been a gateway destination for travellers eager to explore the surrounding island of Borneo and the East Malaysia area. However, Kuching is emerging as a destination in its own right. Earlier this year, the city played host to the 2014 Asean Tourism Forum (ATF), which coincided with the “Visit Malaysia” initiative, and welcomed some 1,600 delegates from all over the globe. If nothing else, the event served to showcase Kuching as a developing conference destination. Meeting point This is perfectly epitomised by the Borneo Convention Centre Kuching (BCCK) – the first convention and exhibition centre in Borneo. Having opened in June 2009, the facility is expected to be part of a mixed-use development that is currently under construction that will include the 150-metre Kuching City Tower. While initially slated for a 2008 opening, the project has been hindered by delays, and there has not been a confirmed completion date. Nevertheless, the BCCK remains an impressive sight. In keeping with Sarawak’s reputation for having the world’s oldest rainforest, the convention centre features a design that is inspired by the shape of the ririk leaf, which are abundant in Sarawak. It features a great hall that measures 2,793 sqm, which is further complemented by 14 meeting rooms. The convention centre has hosted a number of high profile events such as the 2011 Sarawak ICT Expo, the 2011 Asean ORL Head and Neck Congress, and the aforementioned ATF 2014. In addition, a number of international hotel groups have established properties in the city over the past few years, including Accor’s Pullman brand. Pullman Kuching Hotel’s opening coincided with the launch of the BCCK in 2009, and the property offers 389 guestrooms and is located next to the Hills Shopping Mall overlooking the Sarawak River. In keeping with its position as a five-star business hotel, Pullman Kuching boasts 3,660 sqm of meeting space including the largest ballroom in the city that is capable of accommodating up to 1,500 guests in a sit-down banquet setting. Other international hotel brands in the city include the 435-room Four Points by Sheraton, which has nine meeting spaces including a Rainforest Ballroom that can accommodate up to 2,400 and the 315-room Hilton Kuching, which has 10 flexible function rooms and can accommodate up to 750 delegates. Connectivity  boost  As the international hotel brands move in, the city’s connectivity has also steadily improved. Kuching International Airport received a major facelift back in 2006 and is capable of handling up to five million passengers annually. The facility is the third busiest airport in Malaysia after Kuala Lumpur International Airport and Kota Kinabalu International Airport. Improvements included the construction of nine aircraft bays, three of which are designed to accommodate large jets such as the Boeing B747 and the Airbus A380. This signifies longer-range capabilities, and opens up the possibility of international carriers deploying long haul capable aircraft to Kuching in the future. Currently, the airport is only served by domestic and regional carriers including Malaysian Airlines, Air Asia and Silk Air. A historical presence  The commercial area is a 20-minute drive from the airport, and home to several city attractions. The pick of the bunch is the Sarawak Museum, established in 1891 and the oldest museum in Borneo. The building itself features European architecture and remains remarkably well preserved, having been placed under the direction of a sympathetic Japanese officer during the Japanese Occupation. The museum showcases relics of the natural and cultural history of Sarawak, and the cultural heritage of the Iban people indigenous to the area. The museum features an actual Iban longhouse set that details the lifestyle of the community. Blackened skull heads hang over the roof of the longhouse, an eerie presence that represent the remnants of trophies by the Iban head-hunters, many of which were collected only 60 years ago. On the ground floor are specimens of Sarawak fauna including reptiles, mammals and birds. The west wing of the museum houses the Shell exhibition, which is dedicated to the petroleum industries of Sarawak. Admission is free, but it’s highly recommended to have a guide to show you around to gain a better understanding of the attraction. The Sarawak Museum is open from 9am to 4:45pm from Monday to Friday, and 10am to 4pm during the weekend. www.museum.sarawak.gov.my Religious autonomy  A six-minute drive from the museum will take you to Tua Pek Kong Temple, the oldest in Kuching, and in official records since 1876. It’s situated close to the Sungai Santubong River – otherwise known as the waterfront – and the Main Bazaar, which is home to a stretch of shop houses that sell souvenirs and memorabilia, and boasts arguably the best feng shui in the city. It’s no wonder that the temple was one of the few buildings in the area to survive the Great Fire of Kuching in 1884. While Kuching is officially a Muslim state, the practice of various religions is common and generally accepted due to the city’s multi-racial population. The Kuching Chinese community is typically influenced by the three faiths of Buddhism, Confucianism and Taoism. Tua Pek Kong Temple gets its namesake after one of the Malaysian Chinese deities, and literally means “Grand Uncle”. The temple plays host to a number of religious celebrations, including the birthday of the Chinese god, and the annual hungry ghost festival. There is no admission fee required to visit the temple, but donations are welcomed. www.sarawaktourism.com Sinful delights  Another must-do when in Kuching is sampling some of the city’s popular dishes, in particular the Sarawak laksa and kolo mee. Those who are familiar with laksa will know that there are many different variations of the dish, but most can be characterised under two different types – curry laksa or asam laksa. The curry version features a coconut-based broth, while the asam version consists of tamarind fish sauce. Sarawak laksa combines ingredients from both groups. The regional favourite features a base that is made from sambal, essentially a paste made from a blended mixture of ingredients such as shallots, chilli and lemongrass. The broth is mixed with rice vermicelli and topped with beat sprouts, shrimps, chicken slices and omelette strips. Meanwhile, kolo mee – also referred to as kolok mee – is another Sarawakian culinary marvel. The dish consists of egg noodles, minced pork and perhaps a few slices of Chinese barbecued pork, known to the locals as char siew. While people eating it for the first time may notice the striking resemblance to the more common wonton noodles, the big differentiator between the two is the unique taste of kolo mee. This is achieved through the use of pork lard to coat the noodles, giving it a delicious meaty flavour. Cultural celebration Those looking to venture away from the city area are recommended to visit the Sarawak Cultural Village, which is located around 35km away from Kuching at the foot of Mount Santubong, which is often associated with the legend of two princesses who were cursed by heaven to exist as large landforms for all eternity. Considered by the locals to be a living museum and an embodiment of the major racial groups in Sarawak, the cultural village showcases the best of their respective lifestyles amid 14 acres of tropical vegetation. Traditional handicrafts are on display here, including pua kumbu (ceremonial cloth woven by Iban women), woodcarvings by the Orang Ulu, and Chinese ceramics. However, the main eye-candy here is the cultural show, held twice per day at 11:30am and 4pm. The 45-minute performance features an ensemble of cultural songs, dances and entertainment that reflect the ethnic diversity of the Sarawak community, and is something that visitors who are even remotely interested in learning more about the state shouldn’t miss. Admission to the cultural village is RM60 (US$18) for adults, and RM30 (US$9) for children age six to 12 (free for those under six). www.scv.com.my Coming of age After years of acting as mainly a connection hub and entry point for visitors travelling to nearby cities such as Sibu, Miri and Bintulu, Kuching is finally coming into its own as a MICE destination with much potential. While it may continue to be misunderstood as the “Cat City”, the growing infrastructure and strong investment has supported Kuching’s development, helping to ensure that the city could become as great as it is often misunderstood.
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