Terrence Guo gets up close and personal with elephants of the Four Seasons Tented Camp in Thailand
Quicker than I could recall the command in Thai, the gentle giant arched his right fore leg to create a step, tilting his head towards me and offering his ear as a hand rail. I took a deep breath, gripped his rubbery ear, stepped on his bent leg and unceremoniously sprawled myself over his back, then slid myself onto the broad neck of Boon Ma. Khun Tee cheered encouragingly, and it was then that I realised I had successfully negotiated the “song soong” to sit astride one of the most majestic creatures to walk this earth. I’d passed my first test to becoming a mahout – an elephant trainer.
Feeling confident that I could actually master the art of steering the animal – Boon Ma had readily responded to “Bai” (go straight), “Baen” (turn) and the all-important “How” (stop), albeit a little too obligingly – we took the elephants down the muddy slope and into the Ruak River. The twice daily ritual of bathing an elephant is part of a mahout’s routine and helps him connect with it. And of course, the experienced mahouts had conveniently forgotten to teach us the other commands, like “Chub saw”, which I soon learned meant for the elephant to submerge its head entirely into the water.
And so it did happily, and with me along with it. Not to mention hosing and spraying me down playfully as its head re-emerged triumphantly. It made me wonder who was bathing whom.
I had come to Thailand’s mystical Golden Triangle, specifically the new Four Seasons Tented Camp, to escape the city’s madding pace and slow down my own body clock to match that of the elephants. What a relief then to discover no television sets or piped-in music in the luxurious canvas-roofed accommodation reached by a 15-metre suspension bridge and furnished with a classic bathtub, rain shower and air-conditioning. I never knew the sounds of the jungle’s own orchestra could be so mesmerising.
After hours on my pachyderm, the Mahout Recovery Treatment was not only welcomed but necessary, considering that my calve muscles were screaming for relief. I found this in one of the two spa pavilions elegantly ensconced in a bamboo grove.
A new man after the therapy, I made my way again down the Ruak River. Moored alongside the pontoon was a bamboo raft time laid with an Akha rug and tatami mats dotted with silk cushions. As soon as I reclined comfortably under the protective shade of a huge Chiangmai-made umbrella, out came celadon tiffins containing canapés such as rose-shaped parma ham, traditional northern bitter leaves and spicy minced port salar in cucumber cups. The champagne chilling in the silver ice-bucket marked with elephant heads – likenesses of our noble friend cleverly find their way on all sorts of furnishings scattered throughout the resort –?provided an excellent complement.
As our skilful boatman in traditional pantaloons and cone hat expertly guided our vessel on its graceful glide downstream, a gentle breeze swept across our watery path, making the reeds and tall grass fencing both sides of the riverbanks dance in the tangerine twilight. Looking up, I espied the unmistakable creamy peaks of the tents through the foliage.
Just before the sun ducked behind the Loatian mountains, I joined my fellow adventurers at the camp manager’s residence uphill from the Burma Bar for cocktails, an opportunity, not only to trade stories about the mahout training sessions and excursions along the Mekong River but also to learn about the resort’s efforts at elephant rescue and conservation.
On our way to dinner, we stopped by the chilled cheese and wine room, which was well stocked with reds, whites and champagnes. Centrepiece of the venue was the multi-tiered chandelier, suspended from the high wooden ceiling and made of upturned green wine bottles.
Dinner was an elaborate affair with a choice of Thai or western fare, accompanied by a symphony of rustling bamboo leaves and gecko calls.
As I savoured the fried Royal Project trout seared with a special Thai sauce, an adopted baby elephant strolled by with her larger sisters, shyly nodding her greeting to an amused audience.
Though it would be years before she joined her magnificent elders in providing visitors that unique mahout experience, I could see her charm already working magic on those she came in contact with.
FACT FILE
Four Seasons Tented Camp is a four-hour drive from Chiangmai city or a 75-minute drive from Chiangrai Intermational Airport to the West Post where guests are greeted by the camp host. Alert the hotel staff when you’re on your way. A member of the Golden Triangle Asian Elephant Foundation, the resort accepts donations of any point to help rescue these gentle giants off Thailand’s streets.
