Having just elected its first Democratic mayor, Bill de Blasio, in more than a decade, the world continues to look to New York for new trends in art, music, fashion and food. While its trend-setting status remains unparalleled, the city’s many attractions – from dinner amid the historic surrounds of Grand Central Terminal to a night in one of the city’s legendary jazz clubs such as the Blue Note – are time-honoured attractions. Experience some of the best of the dynamic Big Apple through all your senses – sight, hearing, taste, smell and touch.
See
Get a jaw-dropping perspective over the city from the 86th floor observation deck of the Empire State Building (www.esbnyc.com). Since May 2013’s topping out, One World Trade Center has become the tallest building in the city but its observation deck isn’t due to open in 2015. No matter, as the views from the big apple’s second tallest building (open from 8am till 2am daily, admission fee US$27) are spellbinding.
On the main viewing terrace, which wraps all the way around the 86th floor, Manhattan unfolds dramatically, and the new World Trade Center building – a single blue-silver skyscraper – poignantly marks the spot where its pair of predecessors stood. Architecture buffs can enjoy a free recorded guide, which points out buildings and bridges of interest, interspersed with the jovial banter of a narrator who assumes the persona of an Italian American audio caricature. It you feel the urge for a slightly higher view, you can ascend up to the narrower 102nd floor observation area with a further ticket for US$44.
Metropolitan Museum of Art
Art galleries are a big draw in New York, and the city is packed with public and commercial gallery space. The Metropolitan Museum (www.metmuseum.org; open Sun-Thur 10am-5.30pm, Fri and Sats 10am-9pm; US$25) and Museum of Modern Art (www.moma.org; open daily 10am-5.30pm, 8pm on Fri; US$25) both have sizeable permanent and temporary spaces.
If you’d rather not decide which exhibition sections to see, head for another icon – The Guggenheim Museum (www.guggenheim.org; open daily 10am-5.45pm except Thur; Sat until 7.45pm; US$18). Its compact scale makes viewing its temporary exhibitions and small permanent collection rooms manageable in a couple of hours, without rushing. The latter features show-stopping works by modern masters of paint and sculpture including Picasso, Cezanne and Degas among others. And then there’s the building itself, a 20th century architectural marvel that features a gilded spiral façade and interior ascending spiral walkway by Frank Lloyd Wright.
The Cloisters (www.metmuseum.org; open daily 10-5.15pm Mar-Oct, 10am-4.45pm Nov-Feb; US$25), a lesser-known uptown division of The Met is something of a large eccentric folly. The curious composite structure contains domestic and religious elements, brought over in pieces from Europe and reassembled to house a fine showcase of medieval art. Opened to the public in 1938, it sits in Fort Tryon Park in northern Manhattan, within four acres of gardens and grounds overlooking the Hudson River.
A quite offbeat art gallery, established in an old “brownstone” townhouse in uptown Manhattan is Nicholas Roerich Museum (www.roerich.org; open Tue-Sun noon-5pm, Sat and Sun 2pm-5pm; admission free). The painter Nicholas Roerich, who settled in New York in the 1920s, was originally from Russia and devoted a lot of his life to his own spiritual development, with his wife – much in The Himalayas. The gallery, with its 500-plus drawings and many paintings, sometimes holds music and poetry recitals.
Hear
Anyone who appreciates jazz will be familiar with the Big Apple’s long-standing club haunts, notably the Blue Note (www.bluenote.net), Village Vanguard (http://villagevanguard.com) and Smalls (http://smallsjazzclub.com). Some of the newer NYC “hep cats’” now play under the same roof in different time slots and venues at Langham Place, Fifth Avenue. Its lobby bar and restaurant, Measure, (www.measurenyc.com) is home to pedigree jazz pianist and composer Antonio Ciacca, who used to be director of programming at the Jazz at Lincoln Center venue. He is often accompanied by two or three other musicians.
At the end of 2013, a Sunday jazz brunch launched at Ai Fiori (www.aifiorinyc.com) one floor above Measure. At this top-end Italian restaurant, the David Grausman Trio plays a set that spans a traditional and modern repertoire, which is best accompanied with Bloody Marys and a multi-course brunch. Inventive, bold and flavour-forward, the cocktail menu includes the Green Vespa, a Grey Goose vodka-based drink big on fruit – and kick – thanks to the pear juice and cayenne pepper.
Chill with New Yorkers in Bryant Park (www.bryantpark.org), a downtown open space where you can hear the sounds of people playing chess, ping pong, and petanque (boules). There is also a putting green, a Scandinavian game called kubb (which looks a bit like skittles) and an old-school colourful carousel. Another curiosity is “The Reading Room” – an outdoor library of books, magazines and newspapers complete with an onsite café.
Taste
Grand Central Oyster Bar & Restaurant
Lunch at Grand Central Oyster Bar & Restaurant (www.oysterbarny.com; individual oysters from US$1.95), in Grand Central Terminal is highly recommended for both its food and to soak up the charm of a historic landmark that dates back to 1913. In the late 1960s, its marble columns were lost behind paint and it fell into slight dilapidation. It has since been restored to its former glory. Food-wise, oysters of several varieties are serves raw or cooked, and chilled seafood platters are also popular. Robust soups and 20 or so freshwater and ocean fish dishes, plus some turf choices, make up the selection that keeps diners satiated at their red and white check-clothed tables. Several east coast craft beers are available on draught, including Brooklyn and Bluepoint, and there’s a comprehensive wine list, with plenty of Californian Chardonnays to quaff.
More down-to-earth is the Rogue & Cannon (http://rogueandcanon.com), which, sounding rather like a British pub, is a bar/restaurant in Greenwich Village. Partners Larry Poston and Johnny Swet – who launched nightclub Jimmy at the James Hotel and now defunct Griffou among others – have deliberately gone for a relaxed, warm wood-panelled neighbourhood watering hole. Try the lamb, falafel or pulled pork mini sliders – two for US$9 or three for 12 -– or the Rogue Burger with crispy pork belly and peanut butter. American draught and bottled craft beer is also part of the appeal here. It’s US$7 for a bottled of Dales Pale Ale.
No trip to NYC is complete without a New York bagel for lunch, and one of the most popular joints is Best Bagel & Coffee (225 West 35th Street) – although as there’s only a handful of tables it’s best to visit off-peak. Breakfast combos and adventurous fillings and the lox and cream cheese are very fresh, while flavoured house blend cream cheeses are a speciality. Staff are a bit curt but, hey, it’s all about the bagels here – and these are crisp on the outside with light, chewy dough inside.
If you want to make your dining experience more interactive, try the Cook & Go Culinary Studio (www.cook-and-go.com). Geared toward the domestic chef, it opts for seasonal produce and is conveniently located right next to Chelsea Market. US and European menus can be discussed in advance and range from three-course meals to a “TV tray” workshop (US$39 per person). Teachers are down-to-earth New Yorkers, who show you how practical, spontaneous adjustments can be made to menus. Participants are put into groups of two or three, and wine, soft drinks and snacks are on hand while they prepare to serve up a casual buffet.
Smell
A whole block long and a block wide, Chelsea Market (www.chelseamarket.com) – a former biscuit factory in the Meatpacking District – is one of the best places to treat all senses to some fine US and international produce. Considered one of the greatest food halls in the world, it attracts some six million hungry gourmets annually, who can lose themselves amid the fresh, dried, bottled, jarred and vacuum-sealed produce on offer here. Cheese, wine, nuts and preserves make good souvenirs, while restaurants and cafés worth visiting include Los Tacos No. 1 (http://lostacos1.com) for the Nopal (grilled cactus) tacos (US$3.50) and The Fat Witch Bakery (www.fatwitch.com) for its red brownies with dried cherries (US$2.95).
New York Water Taxi
Breathe in some relatively fresh air and get a perspective on dense Manhattan Island and the surrounding, less high-rise, boroughs from the Hudson River and East River on a cruise. New York Water Taxi (www.nywatertaxi.com) offers a fun way to get around; an all-day pass costs US$30, as does the 60-minute Statue of Liberty express tour.
Touch
The Spa at Langham Place on Fifth Avenue (http://newyork.langhamplacehotels.com; US$200 for a 60-minute deep tissue massage) is a beautifully quiet and friendly bolt-hole with adjoining whirlpool, sauna and steam room. Therapists here are very knowledgeable and skilled in both eastern and western therapies.
For a less zen-like experience but a break from New York City, Spa Castle (http://spacastleusa.com/ny; open daily 6am-midnight; US$40 for a weekday day pass) in Flushing, Queens, is highly rated by many as a well-organised sprawling relaxation zone. Check in and wander in house pyjamas to make use of its indoor and outdoor pools equipped with water jets, and numerous steam rooms and saunas at different temperatures, both of which are complementary to those signing up for scrubs, wraps or massage.
Happening ’Hood: Brooklyn
Home to a diverse mix of cultures, from the Hispanic district of Bushwick to the West Indian-dominated Crown Heights, Brooklyn’s major gentrification over the past two decades means it’s now host to many a hip hangout.
Catch the East River ferry over from Wall Street or East 34th Street for stellar views across to New York City, then stroll over to Brooklyn Bridge Park, where arts events such as classical music performances and movie screenings are a regular fixture.
Williamsburg is one of the most happening neighbourhoods, and several large flea markets (www.brooklynflea.com) are held regularly held here. This April, Smorgasburg (every Sat 11am-6pm) at East River State Park (90 Kent Avenue and North 7th Street) will feature more than 75 food vendors.
Looking for a sit-down meal? Then pull up a chair at Antica Pesa (http://anticapesa.com), which is also in Williamsburg; try the lamb ragu lasagne (US$22). This highly rated family-owned restaurant traces its history back to Rome where the original one opened and has hosted Madonna and previous mayor Michael Bloomberg for dinner. Looking for something more bohemian? Head to the BAM Café at the Brooklyn Academy of Music (www.bam.org) on a Friday or Saturday night for live indie music acts. Some events are free.
See
Get a jaw-dropping perspective over the city from the 86th floor observation deck of the Empire State Building (www.esbnyc.com). Since May 2013’s topping out, One World Trade Center has become the tallest building in the city but its observation deck isn’t due to open in 2015. No matter, as the views from the big apple’s second tallest building (open from 8am till 2am daily, admission fee US$27) are spellbinding.
On the main viewing terrace, which wraps all the way around the 86th floor, Manhattan unfolds dramatically, and the new World Trade Center building – a single blue-silver skyscraper – poignantly marks the spot where its pair of predecessors stood. Architecture buffs can enjoy a free recorded guide, which points out buildings and bridges of interest, interspersed with the jovial banter of a narrator who assumes the persona of an Italian American audio caricature. It you feel the urge for a slightly higher view, you can ascend up to the narrower 102nd floor observation area with a further ticket for US$44.
Metropolitan Museum of Art
Art galleries are a big draw in New York, and the city is packed with public and commercial gallery space. The Metropolitan Museum (www.metmuseum.org; open Sun-Thur 10am-5.30pm, Fri and Sats 10am-9pm; US$25) and Museum of Modern Art (www.moma.org; open daily 10am-5.30pm, 8pm on Fri; US$25) both have sizeable permanent and temporary spaces.
If you’d rather not decide which exhibition sections to see, head for another icon – The Guggenheim Museum (www.guggenheim.org; open daily 10am-5.45pm except Thur; Sat until 7.45pm; US$18). Its compact scale makes viewing its temporary exhibitions and small permanent collection rooms manageable in a couple of hours, without rushing. The latter features show-stopping works by modern masters of paint and sculpture including Picasso, Cezanne and Degas among others. And then there’s the building itself, a 20th century architectural marvel that features a gilded spiral façade and interior ascending spiral walkway by Frank Lloyd Wright.
The Cloisters (www.metmuseum.org; open daily 10-5.15pm Mar-Oct, 10am-4.45pm Nov-Feb; US$25), a lesser-known uptown division of The Met is something of a large eccentric folly. The curious composite structure contains domestic and religious elements, brought over in pieces from Europe and reassembled to house a fine showcase of medieval art. Opened to the public in 1938, it sits in Fort Tryon Park in northern Manhattan, within four acres of gardens and grounds overlooking the Hudson River.
A quite offbeat art gallery, established in an old “brownstone” townhouse in uptown Manhattan is Nicholas Roerich Museum (www.roerich.org; open Tue-Sun noon-5pm, Sat and Sun 2pm-5pm; admission free). The painter Nicholas Roerich, who settled in New York in the 1920s, was originally from Russia and devoted a lot of his life to his own spiritual development, with his wife – much in The Himalayas. The gallery, with its 500-plus drawings and many paintings, sometimes holds music and poetry recitals.
Hear
Anyone who appreciates jazz will be familiar with the Big Apple’s long-standing club haunts, notably the Blue Note (www.bluenote.net), Village Vanguard (http://villagevanguard.com) and Smalls (http://smallsjazzclub.com). Some of the newer NYC “hep cats’” now play under the same roof in different time slots and venues at Langham Place, Fifth Avenue. Its lobby bar and restaurant, Measure, (www.measurenyc.com) is home to pedigree jazz pianist and composer Antonio Ciacca, who used to be director of programming at the Jazz at Lincoln Center venue. He is often accompanied by two or three other musicians.
At the end of 2013, a Sunday jazz brunch launched at Ai Fiori (www.aifiorinyc.com) one floor above Measure. At this top-end Italian restaurant, the David Grausman Trio plays a set that spans a traditional and modern repertoire, which is best accompanied with Bloody Marys and a multi-course brunch. Inventive, bold and flavour-forward, the cocktail menu includes the Green Vespa, a Grey Goose vodka-based drink big on fruit – and kick – thanks to the pear juice and cayenne pepper.
Chill with New Yorkers in Bryant Park (www.bryantpark.org), a downtown open space where you can hear the sounds of people playing chess, ping pong, and petanque (boules). There is also a putting green, a Scandinavian game called kubb (which looks a bit like skittles) and an old-school colourful carousel. Another curiosity is “The Reading Room” – an outdoor library of books, magazines and newspapers complete with an onsite café.
Taste
Grand Central Oyster Bar & Restaurant
Lunch at Grand Central Oyster Bar & Restaurant (www.oysterbarny.com; individual oysters from US$1.95), in Grand Central Terminal is highly recommended for both its food and to soak up the charm of a historic landmark that dates back to 1913. In the late 1960s, its marble columns were lost behind paint and it fell into slight dilapidation. It has since been restored to its former glory. Food-wise, oysters of several varieties are serves raw or cooked, and chilled seafood platters are also popular. Robust soups and 20 or so freshwater and ocean fish dishes, plus some turf choices, make up the selection that keeps diners satiated at their red and white check-clothed tables. Several east coast craft beers are available on draught, including Brooklyn and Bluepoint, and there’s a comprehensive wine list, with plenty of Californian Chardonnays to quaff.
More down-to-earth is the Rogue & Cannon (http://rogueandcanon.com), which, sounding rather like a British pub, is a bar/restaurant in Greenwich Village. Partners Larry Poston and Johnny Swet – who launched nightclub Jimmy at the James Hotel and now defunct Griffou among others – have deliberately gone for a relaxed, warm wood-panelled neighbourhood watering hole. Try the lamb, falafel or pulled pork mini sliders – two for US$9 or three for 12 -– or the Rogue Burger with crispy pork belly and peanut butter. American draught and bottled craft beer is also part of the appeal here. It’s US$7 for a bottled of Dales Pale Ale.
No trip to NYC is complete without a New York bagel for lunch, and one of the most popular joints is Best Bagel & Coffee (225 West 35th Street) – although as there’s only a handful of tables it’s best to visit off-peak. Breakfast combos and adventurous fillings and the lox and cream cheese are very fresh, while flavoured house blend cream cheeses are a speciality. Staff are a bit curt but, hey, it’s all about the bagels here – and these are crisp on the outside with light, chewy dough inside.
If you want to make your dining experience more interactive, try the Cook & Go Culinary Studio (www.cook-and-go.com). Geared toward the domestic chef, it opts for seasonal produce and is conveniently located right next to Chelsea Market. US and European menus can be discussed in advance and range from three-course meals to a “TV tray” workshop (US$39 per person). Teachers are down-to-earth New Yorkers, who show you how practical, spontaneous adjustments can be made to menus. Participants are put into groups of two or three, and wine, soft drinks and snacks are on hand while they prepare to serve up a casual buffet.
Smell
A whole block long and a block wide, Chelsea Market (www.chelseamarket.com) – a former biscuit factory in the Meatpacking District – is one of the best places to treat all senses to some fine US and international produce. Considered one of the greatest food halls in the world, it attracts some six million hungry gourmets annually, who can lose themselves amid the fresh, dried, bottled, jarred and vacuum-sealed produce on offer here. Cheese, wine, nuts and preserves make good souvenirs, while restaurants and cafés worth visiting include Los Tacos No. 1 (http://lostacos1.com) for the Nopal (grilled cactus) tacos (US$3.50) and The Fat Witch Bakery (www.fatwitch.com) for its red brownies with dried cherries (US$2.95).
New York Water Taxi
Breathe in some relatively fresh air and get a perspective on dense Manhattan Island and the surrounding, less high-rise, boroughs from the Hudson River and East River on a cruise. New York Water Taxi (www.nywatertaxi.com) offers a fun way to get around; an all-day pass costs US$30, as does the 60-minute Statue of Liberty express tour.
Touch
The Spa at Langham Place on Fifth Avenue (http://newyork.langhamplacehotels.com; US$200 for a 60-minute deep tissue massage) is a beautifully quiet and friendly bolt-hole with adjoining whirlpool, sauna and steam room. Therapists here are very knowledgeable and skilled in both eastern and western therapies.
For a less zen-like experience but a break from New York City, Spa Castle (http://spacastleusa.com/ny; open daily 6am-midnight; US$40 for a weekday day pass) in Flushing, Queens, is highly rated by many as a well-organised sprawling relaxation zone. Check in and wander in house pyjamas to make use of its indoor and outdoor pools equipped with water jets, and numerous steam rooms and saunas at different temperatures, both of which are complementary to those signing up for scrubs, wraps or massage.
Happening ’Hood: Brooklyn
Home to a diverse mix of cultures, from the Hispanic district of Bushwick to the West Indian-dominated Crown Heights, Brooklyn’s major gentrification over the past two decades means it’s now host to many a hip hangout.
Catch the East River ferry over from Wall Street or East 34th Street for stellar views across to New York City, then stroll over to Brooklyn Bridge Park, where arts events such as classical music performances and movie screenings are a regular fixture.
Williamsburg is one of the most happening neighbourhoods, and several large flea markets (www.brooklynflea.com) are held regularly held here. This April, Smorgasburg (every Sat 11am-6pm) at East River State Park (90 Kent Avenue and North 7th Street) will feature more than 75 food vendors.
Looking for a sit-down meal? Then pull up a chair at Antica Pesa (http://anticapesa.com), which is also in Williamsburg; try the lamb ragu lasagne (US$22). This highly rated family-owned restaurant traces its history back to Rome where the original one opened and has hosted Madonna and previous mayor Michael Bloomberg for dinner. Looking for something more bohemian? Head to the BAM Café at the Brooklyn Academy of Music (www.bam.org) on a Friday or Saturday night for live indie music acts. Some events are free. 
