Features

Foshan: A Pearl in the River Delta

28 Feb 2015 by Tamsin Cocks
If you’ve never heard of Foshan, don’t worry – you’re not alone. Despite being one of the most important economic regions in the Pearl River Delta and an ancient cultural centre, the city isn’t that well known outside China. Inside China, it’s a different story. Today, Foshan is an economic powerhouse with a population of over 7 million – more than Hong Kong. It’s the third most important manufacturing hub in Southern China, after Shenzhen and Guangzhou, with a number of specialised industries. One of these is the manufacturing of home electrical appliances, thanks to big Chinese firms such as Midea and Hisense Kelon; other core industries include telecommunications, furniture, metals, plastics and ceramics. Foshan first rose to prominence during the Tang Dynasty (618-906) and was renowned for its skilled artisans, flourishing art scene, fertile lands and productive fisheries. The area continued to prosper throughout the Ming (1368-1644) and Qing dynasties (1644-1911) and gained a special place in Chinese history as a recognised ancient town. It has been credited with giving birth to Cantonese opera, ceramics and certain forms of martial art. As the locals are proud to tell you, Foshan was one of the first towns in China to open up for foreign trade, and thanks to favourable administrative reforms, this legacy persists with a receptive atmosphere for overseas investment. Many international companies have established large-scale manufacturing operations, including automakers Audi and Volkswagon, the US’s Walmart, Siemens from Europe and Toshiba from Japan – to name a few.   ARRIVAL Getting to Foshan isn't quite as easy as some other second- and third-tier Chinese cities, but it is relatively simple nevertheless. The closest international airport is Guangzhou Baiyun International Airport, about an hour’s drive from central Foshan. Rail and metro networks have been extensively developed, and travellers can reach the centre of the city in just over half an hour from Guangzhou Railway Station. Since the Guangfo Subway opened in 2010, the process has been simplified with a single change from Guangzhou’s Metro Line 1, at Xilang Station. The coach is a convenient option when travelling from Hong Kong. With multiple pick-up points across the city, the cross-border service also offers several drop-off locations in Foshan, including the Crowne Plaza Foshan and the Marco Polo Linang Tiandi. The journey takes about three and a half hours, including immigration procedures at Shenzhen, and costs RMB110 (US$18) – pretty hard to beat. Granted, it’s not ideal for getting any work done or having a snooze.   WHAT TO SEE According to the loyal saying, if you haven’t been to Zumiao, you haven’t been to Foshan. The 900-year-old Zumiao Ancestral Temple is a much-revered cultural and geographical focal point of the city. It is located in the heart of the Chancheng central business district (CBD) and is an oasis of calm, as much of a tourist spot as it is a refuge for elderly citizens who can enter for free. The temple offers daily Chinese opera performances and lion dances, and has interesting exhibits among its ancient architecture. It’s a photographer’s dream and a perfect chance to soak up some culture. Entrance fee RMB20/US$3, 8.30am–6pm daily, fszumiao.com (in Chinese). One of the exhibits focuses on Wing Chun martial arts practitioner, Yip Man – one of Foshan’s most famous sons, and si fu (master and tutor) of the legendary Bruce Lee. Visitors can enjoy black-and-white films of Yip Man in training as well as interesting biographical information. Fans of Lee may be interested to know that his family has its roots in Foshan, and his ancestral home in Shang village, Shunde District, is open to the public. Other popular recommendations include the Qinghui Garden in Shunde district, although if you’re based in Chancheng, Liang’s Gardens are closer and also filled with water features, koi ponds and beautiful blooms (93 Xiangfeng Gu Dao; RMB10). The Ancient Nanfeng Kiln is also a must see, with the original 500-year-old pottery kilns still on display and the opportunity to see modern craftsmen at work. The centre has also livened things up by turning one of the old factory halls into a pottery-making workshop for the public.   WHERE TO UNWIND Close to Zumiao Ancestral Temple, in Chancheng CBD, is Foshan Lingnan Tiandi, an ongoing restoration project by the Shui On Land development company, responsible for Shanghai’s charming Xintiandi. Aside from a few questionable choices such as the Hello Kitty Cafe, it’s been very tastefully put together. More than 20 national heritage buildings remain intact, such as the original “Marriage House”, while others have been carefully renovated to maintain the original façade. Even the “new” buildings have been built using original bricks with painstaking effort to maintain the historic feel of the place. Coffee shops with old-style bamboo bar doors, boutique shops housed under traditional “wok handle” style roofs, and an assortment of restaurants, bars and cafés are dotted throughout. It has a good atmosphere, even midweek, and is a popular destination for visitors to congregate – ideal for those travelling alone as it’s more than likely someone will strike up a conversation. In the evening the area really comes to life, with live music venues, nightclubs and open-air bars. Luxury apartments, modern shopping malls and more heritage conservation sites are also being developed in the area. Creative Park is another restaurant and bar area for a young, urban crowd. Aesthetically it doesn’t hold a candle to Lingnan Tiandi, but it does offer some lively venues to eat and drink. Hotspots popular with foreign tourists and expatriates include Hooley’s Irish Pub (hooleys-pub.com) and Sabor de Azahar Spanish Restaurant (106-107, 21 Creative Park, Foshan). Shopping is a bit of a disappointment for those looking for high-end brands. Given Foshan’s proximity to Hong Kong, most locals prefer to hop over the border and feast on the plethora of luxury goods available, thereby avoiding the high import tax imposed on luxury goods in China. There are, however, plenty of modern complexes housing a mix of local and international brands, such as Costa Coffee and H&M.   WHERE TO EAT Wumi Zhou  In terms of the setting, it genuinely doesn’t get much better than Wumi Zhou. Housed in a heritage building, the original walls, floor and other features have been immaculately restored, and the restaurant has lots of little private rooms tucked away down higgledy-piggledy corridors. It serves a Foshanian specialty – porridge hot pot. It sounds bizarre, but it’s delicious. Meat, seafood and vegetables are cooked in a wok full of bubbling congee-like substance, which gives the food a light, almost creamy texture and a very delicate flavour. Other Cantonese specialities include youtiao (deep-fried dough sticks) and Chencun fen rice noodles. No. 6, Wenming Lane, Lingnan Tiandi, Chancheng District, Foshan Tel: +86 (0) 757 6669 1922/6669 1822 YUU For excellent Japanese food, head to the third floor of the Hilton Foshan. The idea of it being a hotel restaurant disappears as soon as you open the door. Dark walls and floors, illuminated with soft, low lights and oriental décor instantly create an intimate feeling. Most of the tables are enclosed in individual booths, aside from a teppanyaki bar in front of the open kitchen. The set menu is highly recommended. Starting with a fresh selection of sashimi and sushi, the courses included tender grilled beef, clear seafood soup served in a teapot, and garlic fried rice. The only course that was a little overpowering was the speciality salt baked ayu fish. The “Golden Sword” sake cocktail is an absolute must.   WHERE TO STAY The Hilton Foshan The Hilton Foshan celebrates its one-year anniversary this month and is a good choice for business travellers. It does have a slightly out of the way location – a 15-20-minute taxi ride to the CBD which costs RMB20-25 (US$3-4) – but the concierge can order a cab and provide directions and a return address written in Chinese. The large, 600-room hotel is tailored to business and MICE guests. The standard city-view rooms (40-50 sqm) are well equipped with a work desk, universal power points, large LCD TV, bath and rain showers. There are 31 meeting rooms and one of the largest pillar-free ballrooms in Foshan at 1,300sqm. There’s a good choice of high-quality restaurants and bars. The large executive lounge also stands out for being spacious, attractive and almost empty – apparently the desire for such spaces hasn’t yet caught on in Foshan, so business travellers are likely to have the space to themselves! hilton.com Marco Polo Lingnan Tiandi Foshan  In terms of location, this hotel is an excellent choice, in the middle of Chancheng CBD and close to local attractions. The hotel has 390 rooms and suites, many of which offer views over the Lingnan Tiandi heritage development and Zumiao Ancestral Temple. Rooms and corridors have been designed with wedding guests in mind, but the light décor and furnishings are equally pleasant for business travellers. It’s also home to a large 1,260sqm ballroom, which can accommodate cars and is a popular choice for launching new automobile products. Three restaurants including a lobby lounge make up the food and beverage offerings within the hotel, plus an executive lounge. marcopolohotels.com Shunde Marriott Hotel  The most recent hotel opening in Foshan is the five-star Shunde Marriott Hotel at the beginning of this year. All 258 guestrooms feature either a view of Shunfeng Mountain Park or the city’s skyline, and come with modern amenities including a marble bathroom, minibar, work desk, and personal safe. Executive rooms and suites are located on the 28th floor, alongside the executive lounge. Dining options include three restaurants serving both local and international fare. Meeting spaces at Shunde Marriott Hotel include a 1,400sqm pillar-less grand ballroom, which comes with the largest LED display panel in town, as well as a 500sqm foyer. Five smaller meeting rooms with spaces ranging from 30-110sqm allow for functions of different scales. marriott.com   ORIENTATION Located in Southern China in Guangdong Province, Foshan is a prefecture-level city. It is separated into five districts: Shunde and Nanhai are two of the most productive and richest districts, while Chancheng is the economic, cultural and administrative centre of the city. Sanshui and Gaoming districts are more residential in nature, with less development. Foshan itself is part of the rapidly growing Pearl River Delta, which recently overtook Tokyo to become the largest urban region in the world, with a population that grew from 27 million in 2000 to 42 million in 2010. The Pearl River Delta is a de facto mega-city, and one of China’s most important economic hubs.
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