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Stuttgart

Published: 26/01/2012 - Filed under: Archive » 2012 » February 2012 » Destinations » City Guides » City Guides » Europe » Archive » 2012 » February 2012 »

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Scott Carey admires fast cars, vibrant pop art and futuristic architecture in the German city.

Porsche Museum

Using the city’s Hauptbahnhof central train station as a starting point, board the S-Bahn S6 line bound for Weil der Stadt (it’s a good idea to get a three-day ticket for all inner-city trains and buses, costing €10.60) and jump off ten minutes later at Porscheplatz. If you look up from the platform, you’ll see the striking white and metallic façade of the Porsche museum.

Stuttgart is the HQ of the iconic car manufacturer and in January 2009 it opened this futuristic building, designed by Viennese architect Delugan Meissl, to showcase more than 80 of its vehicles – these include the first Porsche-branded sports car, the classic 356. The museum charts the company’s history from its beginnings under Ferdinand Porsche through its stratospheric trajectory on the road and racetrack. Pick up an audio guide (e2) for information on vehicles and stories of famous races. Open Tues-Sun 9am-6pm; entry is €8. Visit porsche.com/museum

Stadtbibliothek

Make your way back to the central station and take the U5, U6, U7, U12 or U15 line two stops to Turlenstrasse. Exit the platform and cross the connecting footbridge towards the glowing white and blue monolithic Stadtbibliothek, which is best seen lit up at night.

Planning for the new library began in 1997 but the €79 million nine-storey construction was not officially opened until October last year. Designed by Korean architect Eun Young Yi, the stunning cube-shaped structure was built as a modern-day conception of where the library stands in our technologically driven world.

Start by wandering directly into the heart of the building – an empty “meditative” space with a blue glass skylight. Venture from here up the staircase to the fourth floor, where the central gallery funnels up to the glass roof and houses about 80,000 examples of German and international literature. Free audio guides detailing the concept and architecture of the building are available. Open Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; entry is free. 1 Mailander Platz; stuttgart.de/stadtbibliothek

Kunstmuseum

Double-back again to the Hauptbahnhof and walk up one of the longest pedestrianised shopping streets in Europe, Konigstrasse, until you reach Palace Square. To your left you’ll see the new and old Palaces and, behind these, through the pretty Oberer Schlossgarten, the Royal Opera House and the Parliament building.

To your right is the Kunstmuseum. Designed by German architects Hascher and Jehle, the glass cube structure appears to float while the interior walls are constructed from Jurassic limestone. Focusing on contemporary art, there are three main galleries, one of which houses works by Otto Dix, renowned for his harsh depictions of wartime Germany.

Running until April 9 is a retrospective of Luxembourg’s Michel Majerus, an adopted son of the city who died aged 35 in a plane crash. His work is big and bold with pop-culture references. Entry to the museum is €5 (€8 includes the Majerus exhibition). Open Tues-Sun 10am-6pm (until 9pm Wed and Fri). 1 Kleiner Schlossplatz; kunstmuseum-stuttgart.de

Market Hall

Exit the museum and walk through the central courtyard of the Old Palace, directly opposite. The ancestral seat of the first counts and dukes of Wurttemberg, it is home to the Wurttemberg State Museum, where the crown jewels are displayed (open Tues-Sun 10am-5pm; entry is free until April owing to extensive refurbishments; landesmuseum-stuttgart.de).

At the end of the courtyard, turn left to find the market hall. Originally built in art nouveau style as a traditional food and vegetable market, these days the 37 stalls are frequented by shoppers with wicker bags-for-life perusing the selection of Southern European gourmet goods. For a taste of the local cuisine, pick up a freshly baked pretzel, the ubiquitous German snack that locals claim originated in Stuttgart. Upstairs is the high-end home and kitchen store Merz and Benzing. Open 7am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, until 4pm on Sat. 4 Dorotheenstr; maerkte-stuttgart.de

Breuninger

Leave the market hall via the back right-hand corner and to your right you will see the elegant window displays of the Breuninger department store (1-3 Marktstrasse). Founded 130 years ago and dealing solely in top-end fashion, with brands such as Boss Black, Polo Ralph Lauren and Zegna, this is the Harrods of Stuttgart. The central lobby houses a buzzy cafe and small champagne bar. Other streets near here, such as the stylish Eberhardstrasse, Calwer Strasse and Kirchstrasse, are home to big labels such as Louis Vuitton and Escada.

If you’re tired, fortify yourself with a caffeine fix at one of the Hochland coffee shops (hochland-kaffee.de). Its Holanka bar serves locally roasted gourmet coffee and a selection of sweets and pastries, and is conveniently located at 6B Kirchstrasse. Simply follow your nostrils on leaving Breuninger.

Lucky Hans Quarter

If you require something more sustaining than a coffee – or your purchases have left you in need of a stiff drink – then head to the old quarter. From Breuninger, walk along Eberhardstrasse with the town hall on your right and turn up one of the cobbled streets to your right to reach a central square with a caged fountain at its heart – it depicts the Brothers Grimm fairytale character Lucky Hans, who gave the square its nickname.

Occupied by drinkers in the evening, the bars and restaurants of this popular spot can be quiet in the daytime but are a good option for a quick drink and a bite. Located directly behind the fountain is Deli, a funky café-bar serving fresh local and international dishes, cocktails, coffee, draught beer and wine. 7 Geissstrasse; deli-stuttgart.de

Visit en.stuttgart-tourist.de for more information on the city.
Germanwings flies thrice daily from London Heathrow to Stuttgart and twice daily on weekdays (once at weekends) from Stansted. Visit germanwings.com