Alpine adventures

Published: 30/09/2009 - Filed under: Archive » 2009 » October 2009 » Destinations » Features » Features » Destinations » Features » Destinations » Europe »

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The slopes of Scuol offer challenging runs for experts and novices alike. First-timer Jenny Southan clamps on her skis.

Tucked away about three hours by train from Zurich airport is the fairytale valley of Lower Engadin, home to the remote town of Scuol, where the sloping roofs of sgraffito-decorated houses are burdened with heavy coats of snow. While British people may be more familiar with the ski resort of St Moritz in the Swiss Alpes of Upper Engadin, I am here to try out the slopes mainly frequented by Germans and Swiss. In this lesser-known area, the residents still speak Romansch, one of Switzerland’s four national languages. Spoken by less than 1 per cent of the population, the dialects vary distinctly from town to town – so much so that people often do not even understand each other.

The slopes of Motta Naluns, reaching up to 2,785 metres above sea level, overlook the town and its little station, and I follow the trail of snowboarders and skiers in their colourful jackets. From December to April, this family-friendly resort offers more than 80km of ski pistes, boasting challenging black runs and mogul slopes for the fearless, snaking red runs for the intermediate, and gentle blue slopes for the novices. You can also go cross-country, with five sweeping Telemark trails connecting with the nearby resorts of Prui, Ftan, Munt Clu, Jonvrai Sent and Chamanna.

Ski passes cost SFr 53 (£30) per day in high season and SFr 45 (£26) in low season, and while most people bring their own equipment, you can rent skis for SFr 30-45 (£17-26) and boots for SFr 10-20 (£6-12) per day. As a first-timer with nothing more than a new jacket, a pair of gloves and waterproof trousers, I head to the cabin near the cable car to get kitted out. If you are a beginner or haven’t skied for some time, it’s worth booking a lesson with one of Snow Sport Scuol’s

50 instructors – individual sessions cost SFr 80 (£46) an hour (visit snowsportscuol.ch). After taking in the corduroy pistes, pine trees and alpine vistas from the cable car, I meet my tutor, Matthias, at the top.

As I struggle to clamp on my skis, Matthias explains that we will start off on one of the nursery slopes so I can practise a few basic techniques. Feeling extremely clumsy, I shuffle across the plateau at the base of the main slope, and am perturbed to see children as young as three zipping down with a confidence and grace I obviously lack. I ask Matthias how long he has been skiing. “All my life – as you can see, people round here are often skiing before they can walk,” he says.

At first, the hardest, but most important, thing to learn is how to stop, and my first 90 minutes consist of me trying to keep the tips of my skis together in a snowplough, remembering to push my heels outward and the edges of my skis inward to break at the bottom. I am not exactly reaching breakneck speeds, but I don’t wipe out, which I’m quite proud about. However, when I meet my group for lunch, I’m told it’s because I’m not making enough effort. “Having a few tumbles is a sign you are challenging yourself,” one skier says.

With this in mind, I ask Matthias if I can try a blue slope. He agrees, and after lunch we take a ski lift up another 300 metres. The sight of the valley far below makes my knees weak. I ski behind him, echoing what he does, but I still lack any real control, and after making it partway down I near a small frozen lake and lose my nerve – I can’t seem to stop and shoot past Matthias, flailing wildly and then skidding spectacularly down the slope on my side.

At 5pm, I rejoin the group, having made it down the second time in 20 minutes. (Competent skiers would take less than five.) While the serious snow warriors take the black run down, I opt for the cable car, then make my way to Scuol spa (engadinbadscuol.ch). After an hour in the thermal pools, steam rooms and saunas, my aching legs feel as good as new.

I head back to my lodgings at the authentic Schlosshotel Chaste on the opposite side of the valley, and that evening make my way to La Belezza restaurant, in Relais and Châteaux’s Hotel Paradies in Ftan. Boasting two Michelin stars, it provides the ultimate indulgence after a day on the slopes.

By 9am the next day I am back on the mountain, this time without Matthias, but with a companion who has generously offered to ski with me. The fresh dusting of powder sparkles brilliantly in the sun, and the air is clear and crisp. Filled with optimism, I follow her down, section by section, and suddenly my legs feel as if they know what they are doing. It still seems to require a huge amount of effort, but as I whoosh down, I know I have got the bug, and really wish I didn’t have a train to catch.

Visit myswitzerland.com or swisstravelsystem.co.uk for information.

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