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Hotel check: Hotel du Vin

Published: 01/12/2005 - Filed under: Archive » 2005 » December 2005/January 2006 » Tried and Tested » Tried & Tested » Hotels » Tried & Tested » Hotels » UK »

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What's it like? This is the newest opening in the mini-chain that has six other provincial properties including Brighton, Winchester and Harrogate. It was built on the site of the Brakspears Brewery, 50 yards from the river, which until 2004 was a working brewery. The idiosyncrasies of the building make it impossible to install lifts, which, along with other missing features such as 24-hour room service, means the hotel has no star rating. But the rooms are full of original features and the brickwork, huge wooden beams and wrought-iron stairs create a unique style.

Where is it? Henley-on-Thames is 35 minutes from Heathrow by car, 15 minutes from the M4 (junction 9) and an hour from London by train.

How many rooms? 43, including six suites. Room categories are standard or large double, studio, suite and deluxe suite. The difference is in the bathrooms. Standard doubles have fitted baths with showers while most large doubles have open plan, freestanding tubs and separate "monsoon" showerheads. The finest option is the deluxe suite, Dom Perignon, housed in the old brewing tower. It's on four levels with a walk-in wet room and the biggest showerhead you can imagine.

Room facilities Rooms are minimalist. Features include plasma-screen TVs, DVD/CD players, breakfast room service, laptop-sized safe and grey-tiled bathrooms with toiletries that are twice the size of the usual tiny bottles. I was staying in Dom Perignon, the main door to which leads to a bathroom-cum-lounge, where you can watch a DVD from the bath. However, when my breakfast arrived in the morning there was nowhere to put it (the desk was on the next level up, reached by a long staircase) so I had to balance the tray awkwardly on a clothes hanger stool.

Restaurant and bar The hotel's Bistro is popular so reservations are essential, especially at weekends. The food is good: my tian of Portland crab with pesto (£6.75) and pan-fried red mullet with crushed potatoes and crayfish (£14.50) were rich and tasty. The Champagne Bar, between the lobby and the Bistro, is small but stylish and attracts a large after-work crowd.

Business and meeting facilities There is no business centre but wifi is available in public areas and rooms have high-speed internet access. Faxing and photocopying can be done at reception. There are three function rooms that can hold up to 60.

Leisure facilities There is no gym but guests can use the nearby LA Fitness.

Verdict An interesting, quirky choice with good service and bags of style.

Price Doubles are from £115; studios and suites from £175.

Contact Hotel du Vin, New Street, Henley-on-Thames, Oxon, tel +44 (0)1491 848400, hotelduvin.com.

Sarah Maxwell

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